1967 Newport front drum brake

[Guest schlot]

I took a look at the front drum today and have a couple questions.

First off, is the drum a separate unit or is it integral with the wheel studs so that you have to remove the retaining nut on the spindle and wheel bearing?

Secondly, what is the purpose of the spring that I found on the outside of the drum?

Thanks

[keiser31]

I believe that the drum and hub come off as one on the front. I have always believed that the spring is an anti-noise device.

[Guest schlot]

Thanks so much. Looks like I will take the time to repack the bearings when I pull the drum then.

I wish I could get my hand on repair manual for this car. I searched last year but didn't come up with anything more than an OEM manual.

[JACK M]

Here is a trick. If you can find a 1973 C body Mopar at your wrecking yard, buy the spindles and you will be able to use 73 and newer disc brakes.

1973 spindles ONLY will do this trick.

So you can grab the rotors and calipers from the same car or find better from a newer car.

If you are not sure of the 1973 look at the ball joints, some have the nuts on top and the others have the nuts on the bottom, I forget which just now but the 73 will have them the same as your 67 drum spindles. If you are looking at a 74 they will be the opposite, only on the bottom ball joints if I remember correctly.

Edited May 20, 2011 by JACK M (see edit history)

[keiser31]

Thanks so much. Looks like I will take the time to repack the bearings when I pull the drum then.

I wish I could get my hand on repair manual for this car. I searched last year but didn't come up with anything more than an OEM manual.

Try Irv Bishko Books for a shop manual...

Bishko Books, Repair Manuals, Owners Manuals, Parts Books & Sales Brochures

[Rusty_OToole]

Easy way to take off the front drums, leave the wheel right on. Take off the hub cap, center cap, cotter pin, unscrew the nut until it is flush with the end of the spindle but leave it on. Give the wheel a wiggle and the bearing will pop out. Now you can take off the nut, and the bearing, and set them in a safe place such as on a clean rag. Lift off the wheel and drum assembly and you can service the brakes, or lay the wheel down and use a hammer handle to pop the inside bearing and grease seal out.

It is a good idea to repack the wheel bearings and install new grease seals when doing a brake job.

[Guest schlot]

Excellent idea! Are the seals a special order item typically?

[Rusty_OToole]

Your local NAPA or other good parts store should be able to get the seals or brake parts in 2 or 3 days. If there are no good parts stores in your town, there are bearing supply stores that have amazing stocks of odd bearings and seals. Take the old one in so they can get the number off it.

[Guest schlot]

Thanks. I have been working on removing the drivers side tire so I could assess the brakes ...and after a lot of frustration I found out it has reverse threads? Why o why? LOL.

[Rusty_OToole]

Thanks. I have been working on removing the drivers side tire so I could assess the brakes ...and after a lot of frustration I found out it has reverse threads? Why o why? LOL.

Should have warned you, Chrysler products before 1970s have left hand threads on the left side. This has stymied a lot of people.

The idea was, left hand threads would not work loose by the rotation of the wheel. It turns out, this only applies to the center hub nut not the wheel nuts. So they changed to all the same, left hand thread wheel nuts.

PS you don't have to take the wheel off to take off the brake drum. It is easier to remove the wheel and hub as an assembly.

[Guest schlot]

LOL. Part of the learning curve! At least I didn't snap the studs. Thanks for the info. I also see I posted this in the Plymouth section....no wonder I couldn't find my earlier posts.