1928 GE Dictator, throttle, spark and light levers

[Guest Mike Hawkins]

This is my 1st post. Need help on how to remove the steering wheel hub assembly for access to the levers. Also, related to posting -- what is a tag?

[studeboy]

There are two types of horn attachment on the GE . The early ones had exposed screws on the horn. The later cars had screws that are hidden. I believe they are on the underside of the steering wheel hub. I will check my car and let you know.

[Guest maudsley]

I have nothing to add, but look forward to the answer cause I have some lever issues myself.

I was also wondering what the steering wheel was made from and can cracks be repaired.

[Guest Mike Hawkins]

My steering wheel is attached to the hub with several screws from the back. I have unhooked everything from the steering box and in the process of pulling the tubes out of the column. I have to maneuver the column somewhat to get them all the way out as the hit the roof. Once out, I'll remove the whee and send it to Shrock Bros for recasting. I also need a new horn button if anyone has one -- it's about as big around as a half dollar.

[Echo Robert]

Mike - here is your answer on "tags":

AACA Forums - FAQ: General Forum Usage

As for parts on the levers - there has been numerous threads on the levers and repair of them. Every once in awhile you can find some on ebay, either reproduced or original. Steve Munts in Spokane Washington used to replicate these, as well as the mounting late that tended to fail/break due to being pot metal. However, I've noticied in the most recent Antique Studebaker Magazine that he has an ad saying he no longer is business.

[Echo Robert]

Forgot to mention in my previous post, the threads are on this forum. Go to "search" and type in 'control levers', or 'steering wheel levers' or something like that....you'll find quite a bit and I have found this to be very helpful!

[Stude Light]

I have a few steering wheels. I believe the one on the left is for a Special Six (steel spoke attachment is captured in the wood), the center is for a Light Six EM (steel spokes screwed to the wood from the back side) and the right side is just the wood that has separated (just needs glued back together - no missing wood).

The center hubs and spokes in the lower part of the photo are aluminum. I believe the one on the left is for an earlier Light Six EJ and not sure about the one on the right. I don't know if any of these can be of use, but if so, let me know.

As best I can tell the wood is walnut.

Scott

smrdeza@power-net.net

Edited April 16, 2011 by Stude Light
Added info (see edit history)

[GE Dictator 1928]

I have a 1928 1st Series GE Dictator Club Sedan, and the sterring wheel is removed from the post by a series of screws found under the steering wheel (facing the dashboard) that go around the steering post. I have the same problem with mine, in that all the levers are broken off, but I don't know if it ends there as it appears the rods and plate may have been removed as well, and the spark advance wired to one central position so it can't be adjusted. Don't ask but the car ran for at least 25 years that I know of that way.

[Guest stude8]

I thought this subject was answered sometime ago with photos but I'll attach a few to show how it is done.

Besides broken levers the center mtg post will probably be damaged also since it is die cast zinc alloy. You can see the bronze repro base piece I used was made by Bill Cannon many years ago then again by Steve Munts who is leaving the repro business. If you can find or fabricate one it can be brazed to the original steel tube as shown.

This car is a 1928 Commander, don't know if your lever system is the same but again the 3 zinc alloy levers need to be repro in brass or bronze for correct strength and duarbility. Be sure to get the correct lever in the correct quadrant of rotation so the right diameter shaft is moving the appropriate linkage for Spark, Lights or Throttle.

You unclamp all the linkages beyond end of steering box and slide entire center shaft and levers assy out top. If it is a closed car like mine I had to loosen steering gear box to get enough distance to get the shafts out in the car.

Stude8

[Guest stude8]

Just remembered I had scanned the ASC Review article on how to do this job, good luck, Strude8

[Guest Mike Hawkins]

Stude8,

Thanks for all the info -- very helpful. I've got it all apart and now cleaning up. What would you recommend to lubricate the tubes, oil or light grease (and same for the friction discs)? Also, I need a front seat, it had been replaced with a non original -- does anyone have any ideas on where I might find one.

[GE Dictator 1928]

Stude 8. You did answer a thread like this sometime ago and I greatly apologize that I couldn't remember where on the board it was. I appreciate your posting again on this as your experience with this procedure is very valuable for us who are approaching it for the first time. We very much appreciate the help and info you provide. Keith

[Guest stude8]

What I did was disassemble the rotating tubes from the fixed outer tube and washed everything in gasoline solvent then scrubbed the tubes with steel wool and burnished with 400 wet and dry sand paper. You want to get rid of all the 80 year old contaminated grease and dirty so you get the smoothest non-friction rotation action. When cleaned to satisfaction I wiped mine with wheel bearing grease on a clean rag then reassembled the tubes. If you do detect any that have noticeable friction check the tube for any warpage over its length and carefully straighten it. If you are lucky that the original levers are not broken smooth action of the tubes is important to preserve the aged levers over time.

Stude8

[Guest maudsley]

Maybe Mike Hawkins may now be able to answer this. My levers are not broken, luckily. They also move pretty well and I don't detect too much friction. What does happen, however, is the silver base (on the wheel), and round brown piece which has the onyx horn button in it all spin a little. The levers will stay in place but the other parts mentioned can be spun with my hand with about 1 inch of travel. when this happens the levers cant be moved to certain positions. So, from the great pics that Stude8 provided I can't really conclude what may be broken, or merely not tightened. What have you learned about that Mike?

[Guest Mike Hawkins]

Maudsley,

The onyx horn button can rotate but the brown part that surrounds it should not. One of two things is the problem: (1) the pot metal clamp at the bottom of the steering box is loose or broken allowing the fixed tube to rotate, or (2) the pot metal part with 3 legs that is molded around the top of the fixed tube has broken loose (this is the part that the brown part is screwed into from the underside. Hope that helps. I currently have mine all apart. Both the top and bottom pot metal parts on mine were broken, but I have repaired them and will be reassembling soon. I have to pick up a gun cleaning kit to adequately clean the inside of the rotating tubes, then I'm ready to go.