Jump to content

64 front spring removal


Guest Riviera_Rob

Recommended Posts

Guest Riviera_Rob

Is it absolutely necessary to use a spring compressor to remove/install front coil springs on a 64 Riv? I'm thinking yes considering I needed it for some chevys I've worked on over the years.

Problem is, i'm having a helluva time getting this new compressor I bought to clamp the spring......... and I'm tempted to try using a jack to lower the arm to release the spring but I'm thinking that last inch or so the spring is just gonna pop, and Im in no mood to be dodging a flying spring. Any suggestions?

Spring compressor I bought works internal of the spring with the 4 hooks and threaded rod. Good for up to 3/4" coil, 5 5/8 spread.

Frustrated! figured I'd have all 4 Jamco coils in by now, yet I havent gotten anywhere! BTW, is there anything I need to know about changing out the rears? I figure they should be pretty straight forward, but then again I thought the fronts would go smoothly too.

-Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Riviera_Rob

ok good to hear. I'm going to try it again tomorrow morning. I"ll get some pics up when its done.

Thanks,

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It won't take long to switch out the springs. These cars are a breeze to lower. Just out of curiousity. Is the new spring compressor that is hard to use from Harbor Freight? I've bought specialty tools from there that I don't use often. They never seem to work out very well. The cheap tools always seem to be just that. A cheap P.O.S..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Riviera_Rob

KD Tools, bought it locally, cost me $70 too, what a waste :mad:

A few years back when I had a 65 Chevy I rented a compressor for $15, it had 2 hooks and a fork. I went to rent it today, but it looked like it had seen better days, threads were worn and the threaded rod was bent, so I decided to buy one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are going to use the jack, get a chain and a good bolt. Chain the spring to the lower control arm so if the jack slips or you let it go too fast, the chain will catch it. Worst case if the chain breaks, the spring will have used a lot of energy to break it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Riviera_Rob

Strike 2

Rain that wasnt suppose to show up till mid day, came at 9:30am :(

Anyway, looks like I better replace the ball joints, so before going further I'm going to make sure I have everything I need. This will have to wait until next weekend now.

Wrapping a chain around the spring is a good idea, I have some 3/4" hemp rope to use, should be good enough, repair dept at work uses it to lift heavy equipment.

Looking around I noticed this tie rod with a bend in it, is this suppose to be this way. Looked around online at replacement tie rod pictures, but I think all the sites just show a generic picture of a straight rod.

tierod.jpg

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Looking around I noticed this tie rod with a bend in it, is this suppose to be this way. Looked around online at replacement tie rod pictures, but I think all the sites just show a generic picture of a straight rod."

I wondered the same thing when I bought mine. My alignment guy wasn't sure, but everything was solid and he saw no point in trying to change or correct them, so mine are still that way. Maybe a real expert will weigh in on this one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The chain idea to control the spring is a good one. I would be hesitant to use rope. I personally use a torch and cut the springs in half before removal-takes less than 5 minutes. Be sure you utilize the pressure of the spring to unseat the ball joints before you cut the spring.

Tom Mooney

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...