TheBlackMoon Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Hey guys,So, here's the deal.Was getting sporadic low oil pressure when at idle, but oil pressure would go to about normal as long as car was running (not idling). At the time, I was going through some stuff, so made the mistake of putting off fixing problem til it was too late (went on for about 2wks to a month maybe... and YES, that was STUPID!!!). Before this issue, oil and filter were changed RELIGIOUSLY every 1500-3000 miles with Amsoil (both oil and filter), so the idiot in me thought it was just a faulty sensor. The LOW OIL PRESSURE warning light came on (for the 1st time) and the next second, the Reatta turned off while on the highway doing about 80mph. No further warning. Was able to drift to the shoulder (from the left lane). When I tried to restart the car, it would turn over, but not start; as if out of gas. Had it towed the rest of the way to my mechanic (was on my way there with new tags for the truck I just had inspected). He told me that the car had fuel, oil pressure, and spark, but he couldn't get it to actually start. After I'd picked car up and garaged it, I noticed that fuel injectors and vacuum hoses had been disconnected and left that way, spark plugs were missing, and the engine was just in disarray. I nitpicked this car, so NOTHING was disconnected before he had gotten it and NO ONE ELSE ever worked on it (most of the mechs I knew refused to touch it). I managed to reconnect all of the vac hoses (thanks to the local U-Pull-It yard), but the car sat as it was otherwise. While shooting the breeze months later, he informed me that he was not the one who had worked on my car. At the time, he was injured, so he had his "helper" work on the car (he was trained by GM; his helper was not), and everything he told me was relayed from that guy; who he later fired after finding out he was BS'ing his way through and was a drug addict. I never let him touch a vehicle of mine again. He knew the rule... Only he was to work on my vehicles and they were NEVER to be left outside at night. He had broken both rules. The latter was forgivable as long as nothing was stolen. the former was not!Fast forward to today. New mechanic. Mech reconnected injectors and found spark plugs (thrown behind battery) so put those in. Plugs (AC Delco Rapidfire +4), wires (ACCEL Black 8mm Premium Racing), air filter (K&N), Radiator, timing chain (double roller), cam sensor, thermostat (Stant 180degree), water pump and coil pack (OEM Dealer) were all new (less than 1K miles) when car was parked. Starter and Alternator were both newly rebuilt (alternator w/ less than 100miles on it). I'm sure that I'm forgetting some of the other things, offhand, that were replaced or upgraded. As stated, I was just coming out of rough times, so went on a binge of cleaning, replacing, and upgrading neglected parts before I had the issue with the oil pressure (timing is everything, sometimes). Well, that's everything I can think of regarding the incident. Let me know if you all need more info.So, the question is... What could be keeping the car from starting? I was told that in some GM cars, if the oil pressure sensor sets a Low Oil Pressure code, the ECM shuts off the fuel pump, until the issue is resolved, by activating the Security System. Could this be what's going on? If so, is there some special procedure to reset the ECM and stop it from doing so, and would you still get fuel pressure? Any other suggestions on what to look for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackMoon Posted January 4, 2011 Author Share Posted January 4, 2011 Just got a txt msg from Mechanic. No spark at the plugs, even after repalcing coil pack with one from another engine (I'd bought as a possible swap which has 88K miles).????? Bad Ground ????? But then, how would it be turning over if that was the case. Had a bad ground once before (was fixed with a new 2Gauge ground wire and has second battery (Marine) in trunk with a 4Guage ground wire, though I know mech disconnected the hot wire from the main battery). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Possible crank position sensor failure... Injectors not opening (test with a noid light/tester) and no spark is a good indication that the crank position sensor is the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Drake Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 (edited) From the information you provided, I'd change out the oil pressure switch. No oil pressure, no start. Mounted on top of the oil filter housing directly below the power steering pump.Missed the second post for NO SPARK. A bad oil pressure switch would shut off the fuel. Ronnie gave the correct posibility. Edited January 4, 2011 by Drake (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Drake Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 From the information you provided, I'd change out the oil pressure switch. No oil pressure, no start. Mounted on top of the oil filter housing directly below the power steering pump.Missed the second post for NO SPARK. A bad oil pressure switch would shut off the fuel. Ronnie gave the correct posibility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Well sorta. The oil pressure switch can shut off the fuel pump but you should get a two second shot when you put the key in and turn to RUN. This goes through the fuel pump relay and primes the injectors when the engine is first turned on (otherwise you would have to wait until oil pressure came up from cranking before it would start) so if have spark and good pump but no oil pressure on cranking it should try to fire and die.Also Some '90s (I have one) would spin/lose the center cam bearings resulting in a sweet running engine with 0 psi at idle and 19 psi at 2000 rpm. Drove one over 1,000 miles that way when dealer said it was the gauge. Way to tell is with a mechanical gauge (is in FSM) or pull the pan and see what falls out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackMoon Posted January 4, 2011 Author Share Posted January 4, 2011 Thanks guys. I just left a msg with the mech to check the crank position sensor and the oil pressure switch as possible causes, reading, verbatum, your responses. I appreciate your input and really hope it's one of them that's caused this. Question... would the CPS be something that any mechanic would automatically check for if they didn't get spark? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Richard D Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Question... would the CPS be something that any mechanic would automatically check for if they didn't get spark? Hard to say, Is he a GM guy who is good on 3800s? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Sure sounds like the CPS as mentioned by Ronnie. I suspect the oil pressure light came on because the engine quit, not the other way around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackMoon Posted January 5, 2011 Author Share Posted January 5, 2011 Question... Hard to say, Is he a GM guy who is good on 3800s?Actually, he's a Pontiac man. I don't know how well the experience bridges. Best thing is he is experienced, he's willing to learn and open to suggestions, and he takes payments; the three things I need most in a mechanic right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Late Pontiacs (1988 and later) mostley used a DIS (distributorless ignition system) with a CPS (crank position sensor). LN3 (1988 Reatta "C") was one of the first to use a dual system. The Factory Service Manual has a section on "cranks but does not run" which describes a way to check the CPS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackMoon Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 Wow!Was a "Prince Charles" sized Royal PITA trying to find this post in order to give y'all an update. I prefer the old site over this one, hands down!!!Anyway, BINGO!!!!!The CPS was toasted! Thanks guys. Funny (ironically typical) thing about it all was that I was the one who informed him where to look for the resolution (of course, with the help of you guys here), but he STILL charged me for 3hrs of diagnostic labor. He, in fact, made the very serious mistake of taking my enthusiasm for getting the car running as stupidity and desperation. Well, he'll get his money, but now, I'm going to have to find another mechanic. It won't be him. $800 for a crank sensor, oil pump, and oil change ($525 of which was labor and "diagnosis") is a rip! Maybe my old mechanic is still around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Why there are only a few people I trust other than myself to work on one of my cars and none are in the business. Of course having spares helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now