31 buick wheel bearings getting warm

[Guest buicker]

Just put new front wheel bearings on my 8-57, did not replace the races they looked in good shape. I cant seem to keep enough grease in the outer bearings so they start to get warm after 2-3 miles of driving. I am using a bearing packer to pack them and using a fairly stiff grease so any suggestions on type of grease? maybe its not heavy enough?

[Larry Schramm]

I would be looking at the races again. Something is getting warm which is obvious. What is happening to the inside bearings? Are they OK?

[trp3141592]

Hi,

Also, you might try using bearing grease that is specified for use on disk brake rotors. It's a higher temperature mix that will better tolerate drum hub bearings.

--Tom

[jbbuick22]

Check the bearing adjustment, sounds like they are too tight.

JB

22-6-55 Sport Touring

[Guest buicker]

The inner bearings still hold gease and do not get warm. I used some grease I have had for years and was not labeled so dont know about temp rating. It was very stiff grease so i figured it was better than the vaseline consistancy of the newer grease I bought from the parts store. I did get the new races so I could put those in but wont I need to take it to a machine shop to remove?

[Mark Shaw]

Try this:

PREMIUM WHEEL BEARING 707L RED GREASE

Multi-Purpose, High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease For Conventional, Disc and Antilock

Braking Systems

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

PENNZOIL® PREMIUM WHEEL BEARING 707L RED GREASE is a high temperature, NLGI Grade 2, lithium complex

grease which contains high quality petroleum base oils. The primary application for 707L is in high temperature operations

such as wheel bearings on vehicles equipped with conventional, disc and antilock braking systems. These high temperature

applications demand the use of 707L to resist melting of the grease and the resulting leakage from the bearings. 707L may

be used with confidence at continuous operating temperatures up to 325°F and in intermittent use at temperatures up to

450°F. Special additives in 707L prevent rust and corrosion, reduce wear, and provide extreme pressure protection. 707L

has excellent resistance to softening or hardening in service, resists water washout, and flows readily at cold temperatures.

707L's special thickeners resist wheel bearing leakage.

I also suggest you check for brake drag...

[Bob Engle]

You don't need to take the hubs to a machine shop. Remove the hubs from the spindles. Remove the seal on the inner bearing. REmove the inner bearing. Clean all excess grease from the space between the bearing races. You will notice that the races are seated against a shoulder on the inside. There are two open spots in the should. Use a long punch and hammer and tap on the race, alternating blows on the open spots. Take care not to let the punch slip out of the slot and hit the race bearing surface while hammering. The races are held in by a tight slip fit tolerance and will tap out without a lot of effort.

When installing a race, it is best to have a piece of round stock that is just slightly smaller that the race outer diameter so you can tap the new race in straight until it seats against the inner collar.

I would check the fit of your new bearing in the old race by removing all grease and then apply a coating of prussian blue on the bearing surfaces and then put the bearing in the race and turn by hand and then look at the contact area in the race. You should see a full contact area in the race.

I hope this helps.

Bob

[Guest buicker]

Ok I will replace the races and use the 707 grease if I can find it. may have to order it? But Mark may be on to something with the brakes. Any advice on religning or replacing? The brakes do look in need of some attention.

[Bob Engle]

I highly recommend that you reline with woven lining. The brakes will work with less pedal effort, less drum wear and less noise. The woven lining does wear faster, but the braking reliability is much better ( in my opinion). I get White Post Restorations to reline my shoes.

Bob