Reatta quits running when it reached operating temperature

[Guest keystone]

I am puzzled. My Reatta out of the clear blue just quites running afetr driving about 1 to 2 miles. No codes. Replace coil pack, ingnition module and crank sensor. Cleaned crank mag and it looked good. Must be crank sensor. Can this be changed w/o pulling ballancer.

Keystone.

[padgett]

Sounds like it is quitting when it goes into closed loop. Is the oil pressure doing anything funny ?

[Ronnie]

Replace coil pack, ingnition module and crank sensor. Cleaned crank mag and it looked good. Must be crank sensor. Can this be changed w/o pulling ballancer.

Keystone.

Your statements seem to contradict each other. Did you mean you replaced the cam sensor? Was the crank sensor replaced?

[Guest keystone]

Thanks for the replies. So sorry for the confusion. I can drive it about 2 or 3 miles and then it starts. When it is cold or cools off it runs great.

Oil pressure looks OK. Once it quits then I get a low oil pressure light. I did replace the sending unit a few years ago with an AC Delco unit.

Sorry my bad on the sensor. I replaced the cam sensor and checked and cleaned the magnet on the cam. Have not changed the crank sensor. I think I have eliminated most of the other possibilities? And I am asking if the crank sensor can be replaced w/o removing the balancer.

Keystone

[Ronnie]

Thanks for the replies. So sorry for the confusion. I can drive it about 2 or 3 miles and then it starts. When it is cold or cools off it runs great.

Oil pressure looks OK. Once it quits then I get a low oil pressure light. I did replace the sending unit a few years ago with an AC Delco unit.

Sorry my bad on the sensor. I replaced the cam sensor and checked and cleaned the magnet on the cam. Have not changed the crank sensor. I think I have eliminated most of the other possibilities? And I am asking if the crank sensor can be replaced w/o removing the balancer.

Keystone

The oil pressure sender is an integral part of the electrical system that keeps the fuel pump running when the engine is running. Eliminate it as the problem before changing the crank sensor.

It might be possible to change the crank sensor without removing the balancer but the normal way to replace it calls for removing the balancer.

[2seater]

You should be able to connect a volt meter, or test light, to the green connector under the hood near the brake system. This connects directly to the fuel pump wiring to prime the system using 12vdc. It will also indicate if the fuel pump is getting power when this happens, but the symptoms sound like classis crank sensor failure. I believe I have heard of changing the sensor without removing the balancer, but unless it has be done recently, the sensor mount is probably stuck on a dowel pin or the screw clamp on the mount is a tight fit even with the adjuster screw loosened. I would remove the balancer.

[Guest NEMO]

Yes the crank sensor can be replaced,with out pulling the balancer, I have done it on the 1989 and the 1990 years. It may be different on the 1991 . Use brass feeler gage to set the clearence to the inner fins.You have to turn the crank to get the balancer set so you can slip the crank sensor threw the fins, there are gaps in the fins or rings what ever they are called. Some use a match book as a feeler gage. The unit must be set to clear all the fins or it will rub and damage the sensor.

[padgett]

The kicker seems to be that it heals when cold and that is a classic ICM issue.

Hot or cold should not affect the fuel pump, once they start, they usually keep running.

If you read the "Cranks But Does Not Run" section in the service manual there is a check for the crank sensor by probing the fourteen pin ICM connector with a DVM.

That said, the 14 pin connector is a bit marginal IMNSHO and you need to use care in making sure it is fully seated.

Try starting it cold, enter the diagnostics, and see if it stalls when it enters closed loop. Also note the coolant temperature reading (ED04) when it stalls - can monitor both at the same time.

[Guest keystone]

Thanks so much for your replies. I will check things out and post my progress but i will be slow because of the number of things on my plate right now.

Keystone

[Guest julioj]

change the crank sensor and on 90 &91 you do not need a puller. easy way to loosen nut is with air impact on balancer. long extension from the wheel well

[padgett]

Year would help. 88-90 "C" has a slip on balancer, 91 "L" needs a puller (earlier may also but shouldn't).

If it stalls while driving above 30 mph, does the tach instantly drop to zero when stalls or is it a slow decline ? (llittle hard to explain but a failed crank sensor/ICM/wiring will drop the tach reading immediately but even if not firing, engine will still be turning for a few seconds).

[Guest keystone]

Update

Finally got around to replacing my crank sensor. Turned out to be a pretty easy job. I decided that while I was there I would replace the Harmonic Balance since I had to remove it. I ordered a Dorman from Amazon part #594-001. Oncei I installed the crank sensor I put on the new HB. I noticed 2 things. One the supplied bolt was about 1/4" longer so I decide to use the old bolt. No big deal. Once I began to re assemble the dampener bracked I notice the second issue: that it hit the front of the HB. I removed the HB and compared to the old one and notice that it was about 1/4" thicker than the original. I then went to Advance Auto, Aotozone and NAPA to check out their HB. All the same as the Dorman. So I reinstalled my old one (looks fine)

Question. Has anyone else experience this and if so do you have to buy a Delco part to fit correctly.

Keystone

[padgett]

Have replaced several HB. Have noticed two different bolts but all fit fit same same. I personally do not care for Dorman but YMMV.

Of course you can always have your old balancer re-rubbered. Call Dale MFG though after mine thay added a surcharge: 1988-1995 Buick 3800 harmonic balancer (gas engine) (+$40 for extra rubber),

[Guest keystone]

Thanks Padgett

The ones that I got would not. I will go Dale if I have a problem. Right now OEM is working fine

Keystone