Engine Swap help

[ReattaTType]

Hello everyone, I am currently replacing my stock LN3 3800 with a Series 1 L67 and will be getting ready to drop the cradle, however I have a few questions where I am stumped. I am wondering what the best way to remove the engine cradle bolts are and exhaust manifold bolts, they are pretty rusted being a Canadian car so I have a feeling the engine cradle bolts may break. Anybody have success with removing them? Also the throttle cable assembly, how do you remove that? I have an idea and found an additional bolt that i missed to remove the assembly, but the throttle cables and EGR prevent me from being able to access it. Just wondering if anybody has any tips for this? Thanks.

[handmedownreatta]

ive had great luck with 'pb blaster'to loosen rusty bolts.give it time to work.

[Don B.]

If you are not changing the trans you could pull the motor from the top of the engine compartment. You need a long socket extention for the engine trans bolt that is against the fire wall.

Spray alot of penitrating oil on all bolts. If the engine still runs get some heat cycles in and respray the bolts.

I've never had the craddle bolts break, the rubber mount with the steel sleeve in them sieze to the bolt and the rubber break apart.

[Guest mongeonman]

You seem to know alot about numbers,do you know how many 1990 convertible they are in Canada,and in the province of quebec,i live in Gatineau and i have a 88 coupe and a 90 convertible,both are white and black stripes,burgundy interior.

Hello everyone, I am currently replacing my stock LN3 3800 with a Series 1 L67 and will be getting ready to drop the cradle, however I have a few questions where I am stumped. I am wondering what the best way to remove the engine cradle bolts are and exhaust manifold bolts, they are pretty rusted being a Canadian car so I have a feeling the engine cradle bolts may break. Anybody have success with removing them? Also the throttle cable assembly, how do you remove that? I have an idea and found an additional bolt that i missed to remove the assembly, but the throttle cables and EGR prevent me from being able to access it. Just wondering if anybody has any tips for this? Thanks.

[padgett]

What Don meant is that there is one trans bolt facing backwards between the engine and the trans. You have tor reach with about 3' in extensions from the passenger side through the gap between the engine and the trans.

You do need to remove the hood.

For me the hardest part was unbolting the a/c compressor (there one bolt that is difficult to reach) and setting it aside where you already removed the radiator.

What do you plan to do about keeping the instrument panel and CRT alive ?

[Don B.]

There is a bolt that holds the engine to the trans. You need a long extention to reach from under the power steering pump, between the exhaust manifold and engine block to the bolt. I'm sure you (handblt88) have see and removed the bolt that is on the radiator side of the engine, by the starter. 3 foot sound about the right size.

The hood, it is heaver than it looks.

I unbolted the compressor from the bracket.

I did this 9 years ago so I could be wrong.

You can keep the dash and add a boost guage on the left side of the instrument pod between the door and pod.

Padgett thanks for elaborating on the details.

Edited February 21, 2010 by Don B. (see edit history)

[ReattaTType]

I haven't removed that bolt as of yet, im dropping the motor and tranny out through the bottom, hence removing the engine cradle. I have a 95 Series I L67 and 4T60E as a replacement. I need to figure out how I am going to get the electronic transmission to work as well.

[padgett]

What I have heard works is a 1992-1994 L-67 "power control module" having the E-trans code without ABS but still "P4" (OBD-1). The data stream (one of the last subroutines in memory AFAIR) can then be tweaked to match the BCM

[ReattaTType]

Btw mongeonman, I got the numbered info from GMCanada themselves. You just send them the VIN number of your Reattas, considering they are original Canadian cars, and you pay a fee and they will give you every RPO code off of your specific car, with the amount of cars that were imported to Canada that year in that bodystyle, colour, interior trim, etc. I know that 88 coupes, there were 227 so your 88 coupe would be one of them, im thinking white was more common in Canada with Reattas as I have seen more white 88 Reattas in Canada than 88 black Reattas. I am assuming there were more than 17 convertibles in Canada for 1990, I believe the 90 coupes just not interest in Canada which prevented sales. If you want any more info on the GM Vintage Vehicle Services or anything odds and ends Reatta, I can see if I can lend a hand. Call me at 519-942-6860 or just shoot me an email at murphyd_90@live.ca. Thanks for the PCM data Padgett. I was thinking the PCM would have to be piggybacked or something off of the BCM, just wasn't sure how much. At this point I may consider rebuilding the current 440T4 tranny and beefing up the internals, but I really like the idea of having the 4T60E. The transmission I got isn't the HD as it is from a Bonneville SSE, and the supercharged motor was dropped in later on.

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

I already did the tranny swap. get the wire harness and the ECM/PCM from the doner car. Then I will try to get you the Schematics and splices I had to do. This is the best way I could figure out to do the swap. You will get code thrown from the stock ECM, but you can turn them off durring tuning. if you really wanted to get fancy you could even install the ALDI conector to the new PCM and be able to pull codes from the tranny.