Unleaded fuel a problem???????

[Guest buckfarmer]

Dad and I just bought a 1930 buick 50 series six cylinder sedan. We were talking and wondering if unleaded fuel was a problem for these cars. Wondering what other people are doing. Is there an additive for the fuel or is it of no concern.

I also came across cars for sale that have had a "valve job to burn unleaded" is this what we need to do. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Also wondering what the standard procedure is for a car like this. We havn't got the car home yet, picking it up this week. But the engine is supposed to be free turning but has not be run since the 50's. Do you just attempt to run the engine or do you rebuild the engine to new????? My thinking was the less you did the better. The previous owner never did try to do anything with the motor as he was planning to rod the car.

Edited November 9, 2009 by buckfarmer (see edit history)

[Mark Shaw]

Unleaded fuel is not a problem for low compression engines like the Buick straight 8. The potential problem is natural rubber parts like the fuel pump diaphragm. Before trying to start the engine, lubricate the moving parts. Marvel Mystery Oil is commonly used for this. Put a teaspoon in each cylinder and over both ends and the center of the valve rocker arm assy. Use motor oil to lube the generator bearings, distributor, crankshaft bearings, etc. Let everything soak for a few days before starting and you will prevent lots of excessive wear in bearings, piston rings and cylinders when it starts. While you are soaking your engine, make sure the brake rod bearings are well lubed so it can stop before it starts.

[garnetkid]

If I am not mistaken, and if I am somebody jump in and correct me, unleaded fuel was not in use in 1930. Lead in the fuel was added to prevent anti knock and as a side benefit it was learned that it also prevented valve wear by "lubricating" the valves as without lead every time they made contact with the head they would "stick" and pull a little metal away each time. It was not uncommon for engines of the day to have valve jobs done every 20 thousand miles or so. If your engine has that many miles and has never had a valve job if may be due for one and if that is the case it would be the opportune time to redo the head using hard seats so that it won't wear out by using non leaded fuel. I would fire up that engine and see how it runs. Do a compression test and if everything is Ok don't worry about it until it needs a valve job. good luck with the project, looks like a nice car. Leon

[davenc]

Mark is correct about the unleaded fuel not being a problem with these old engiines. They are not high perrformance, (compression), and you won't be straining the engine like pulling a trailer. There was a move in the hobby several years ago to install hardened valve seats in engines to allow use of unleaded fuel. That just isn't necessary in these old engines. Here is a list that has worked well for me before starting an engine that has been sleeping a long time. First, be patient. Don't just hook up a battery and start cranking. Time spent up front will ensure you aren't doing damage. Before you even turn the engine over, drain the old oil out of the oil pan. If this is really black or grey and gunky, drop the oil pan and clean the oil pump pick up screen. Put the oil pan back on fill with new oil. Replace the oil filter if there is one. Remove the spark plugs. Put about a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder. Remove the distributor cap. Remove the valve cover. Turn the engine over by hand and make sure all the valve train and the distributor is moving properly. Clean and set the points. Hook up a battery and make sure there is spark at the points. Clean rotor and contacts inside dist cap and reassemble. With the plugs still out, crank the engine over using the battery for 30 - 60 seconds to pump oil up to the valve train. You can also see if you are getting spark up to a spark plug. This will also pump fuel to the carb. Check coolant level in the radiator. If all looks good and no fuel leaks, gap and put spark plugs back in. You should have fuel and spark and she will fire.

[Guest buckfarmer]

Thanks everyone. Looking forward to the weekend when we get the car home. Excited to try out the advice you have given. Thanks again

Neil

[Dwight Romberger]

Neil,

Great car! Congratulations. You and your Dad will enjoy restoring this one. The 1930 drives like a dream. Practise double-clutching (non-syncronized trans)and get a pair of side mirrors. (It's hard to back up using that little pocket mirror on the windshield).

Dwight

[Guest stephenson1937]

I'm rebuilding a 37 engine and since I have it all apart I'm taking the time to have the hardened seats installed. I figure if I'm going through the expense, I might as well remove any apprehension about the unleaded fuel.

Larry

ps Nice car!!