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About davenc

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  1. Hi Lamar, I've been following your thread on the '36 Roadmaster. I'm dying to know what the engine, or what's left of it, looks like? Is it complete, is it stuck, etc, etc,. David
  2. Wayne, What is it about the Brush transmissions that made them so problematic? I'm not a Brush guy, but just curious about the mechanical side of it and why they were so poor. Dave
  3. Roger, what is the mix ratio of molasses to water are you using? Dave
  4. Guys, just for clarification. From the pictures this is a '28 Buick. The front fenders have smooth top surfaces. '27's have a "crown" stamped in them. Also this is one of the longer wheelbase Master series cars, versus the shorter wheelbase Standard series cars. The horizontal tube behind the front bumper from frame ear to frame ear give it away as a Master series! David
  5. What are the top 5 most active AACA Regions or Chapters in the USA? I'm wondering if AACA has the ability to compile or determine such information. I know the definition of "active" is subjective, but I'm thinking in terms of club group activities, club outings, club driving tours, member participation, etc. Anything other than just gathering once a month at a local restaurant to have a cheap meal and call it a club meeting. Dave
  6. I've also used Cal Rubber. They have ribbed mat material that very closely resembles the original. Order by the foot and cut to your needs. As for the felt, go to McMaster Carr. The have various thicknesses and sell by the foot. David
  7. Todd, We'll need a lot more details to help you on this one....'34 did not have vacuum-assisted hydraulic brakes originally. Still had mechanical brakes in '34. Dave
  8. I've done this adjustment on my '36 EE22. With the screws out that hold the top cover in place, set the top cover back on and start the car. This just makes me feel better than having the bowl full of fuel sitting open when the car fires. I adjusted the float to yield the fuel level to the recommended 5/8 inch. My car runs well at this fuel level. David
  9. Tom, when I replaced the foam seal pad in my '36 I fabricated a pad to match the shape of the original (what was left of it) using neoprene foam pad material from McMaster Carr. Their part # is 8647K501. The specs for the foam pad are there. I also installed strips of silicone rubber between the tank and the bottom tank hold straps using rubber also from Mc Master Carr. That # is 5812T134. There were no cushion straps originally and you can't see my additions but it make me feel better when I'm torquing down on the tank straps during re-installation. While the tank is out I recommend a couple things. First, with the sending unit out look closely at the fuel pick-up tube soldered to the bottom of the tank. Make sure the tube is not obstructed in any way where it is attached to the tank bottom. There is history of poor soldering jobs at the factory and the tube becoming obstructed. You'll wonder why your fuel pump is fuel starved and not getting sufficient fuel to the carb. Secondly I highly recommend having your sending unit rebuilt. They will install a modern float. After 77 years of use the unit is not accurate at best and may not read above half a tank. You really don't want to get everything reassembled only to discover the unit is not working. You don't want to take the tank back out again. Dave
  10. BJM, A couple things tell me this is the larger wheelbase Master series, not the smaller Standard series. The headlight shells appear to be chromed, (nickel plated), as opposed to painted as on the Standard series. Secondly the fan belt is a V-belt and not a flat leather belt. Dave
  11. Tom, You stumped me on this one. I've not seen that before. A good soak in clean gas and/or lacquer thinner should do wonders for it. David
  12. Tom, Joel is correct. You're looking at 76 years of crud. The screen will pop off so you can dig the crud out. I had the same condition on my '36. With the pick-up screen 90% plus clogged with gunk I don't know how the old gal got any oil into the pump. David