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Everything posted by davenc

  1. VERY nice!! So, please give us some tips (secrets) on your process. Did you start with the front center-back center-side center routine or did you do the corner to corner X pattern you previously thought about?
  2. In the For Sale section of the HH Franklin Club website, there is a Franklin being listed as a 1923. I have very limited knowledge of Franklins, but have always admired their styling. (I've been a Buick guy for over 40 years. Don't hold that against me!) Due to shape of the grill shell, it looks to me like it is newer than '23. Can someone enlighten me? Thanks, David
  3. Hi Goeff, The '28 windshield regulator knob has threads on the back. It screws on just like all the window and door handles. If you look on the backside of any of those handles you will see what i mean. The handle you have in the picture is actually the handle for the back quarter windows. The correct windshield knob is just like a door window handle, just shorter throw. David
  4. Hi Lamar, I've been following your thread on the '36 Roadmaster. I'm dying to know what the engine, or what's left of it, looks like? Is it complete, is it stuck, etc, etc,. David
  5. Wayne, What is it about the Brush transmissions that made them so problematic? I'm not a Brush guy, but just curious about the mechanical side of it and why they were so poor. Dave
  6. Roger, what is the mix ratio of molasses to water are you using? Dave
  7. Guys, just for clarification. From the pictures this is a '28 Buick. The front fenders have smooth top surfaces. '27's have a "crown" stamped in them. Also this is one of the longer wheelbase Master series cars, versus the shorter wheelbase Standard series cars. The horizontal tube behind the front bumper from frame ear to frame ear give it away as a Master series! David
  8. What are the top 5 most active AACA Regions or Chapters in the USA? I'm wondering if AACA has the ability to compile or determine such information. I know the definition of "active" is subjective, but I'm thinking in terms of club group activities, club outings, club driving tours, member participation, etc. Anything other than just gathering once a month at a local restaurant to have a cheap meal and call it a club meeting. Dave
  9. I've also used Cal Rubber. They have ribbed mat material that very closely resembles the original. Order by the foot and cut to your needs. As for the felt, go to McMaster Carr. The have various thicknesses and sell by the foot. David
  10. Todd, We'll need a lot more details to help you on this one....'34 did not have vacuum-assisted hydraulic brakes originally. Still had mechanical brakes in '34. Dave
  11. I've done this adjustment on my '36 EE22. With the screws out that hold the top cover in place, set the top cover back on and start the car. This just makes me feel better than having the bowl full of fuel sitting open when the car fires. I adjusted the float to yield the fuel level to the recommended 5/8 inch. My car runs well at this fuel level. David
  12. Tom, when I replaced the foam seal pad in my '36 I fabricated a pad to match the shape of the original (what was left of it) using neoprene foam pad material from McMaster Carr. Their part # is 8647K501. The specs for the foam pad are there. I also installed strips of silicone rubber between the tank and the bottom tank hold straps using rubber also from Mc Master Carr. That # is 5812T134. There were no cushion straps originally and you can't see my additions but it make me feel better when I'm torquing down on the tank straps during re-installation. While the tank is out I recommend a couple things. First, with the sending unit out look closely at the fuel pick-up tube soldered to the bottom of the tank. Make sure the tube is not obstructed in any way where it is attached to the tank bottom. There is history of poor soldering jobs at the factory and the tube becoming obstructed. You'll wonder why your fuel pump is fuel starved and not getting sufficient fuel to the carb. Secondly I highly recommend having your sending unit rebuilt. They will install a modern float. After 77 years of use the unit is not accurate at best and may not read above half a tank. You really don't want to get everything reassembled only to discover the unit is not working. You don't want to take the tank back out again. Dave
  13. BJM, A couple things tell me this is the larger wheelbase Master series, not the smaller Standard series. The headlight shells appear to be chromed, (nickel plated), as opposed to painted as on the Standard series. Secondly the fan belt is a V-belt and not a flat leather belt. Dave
  14. Tom, You stumped me on this one. I've not seen that before. A good soak in clean gas and/or lacquer thinner should do wonders for it. David
  15. Tom, Joel is correct. You're looking at 76 years of crud. The screen will pop off so you can dig the crud out. I had the same condition on my '36. With the pick-up screen 90% plus clogged with gunk I don't know how the old gal got any oil into the pump. David
  16. Just bought a '54 Century from a dry climate, no rust. Purchased it from the original owner's family, making me the 3rd owner. Odometer shows 22K miles. Based on the family's history of the car, that may be actual miles. My question is what would be tell-tale signs on the car that this is really 122K miles? I'm thinking maybe the condition of the front end like king pins, ball joints, etc. Opinions?
  17. You can get the sending unit you have rebuilt. Tri-Starr did the unit on my '36 and did a great job. Rebuilt Fuel Sending Unit Specialist There are probably other shops out there who can rebuild it too. David
  18. Keith, '36 Buicks came with a factory-installed oil filter. They look like a canister with no housing and have metal tubing from the top and bottom. As Bill mentions the filters only filter the oil going to the rocker arm valve train. Originals are out there but be careful...the originals have a cotton-like material inside and now that they are 75 years old the material can clog oil passages. Best bet is to get any "canister-type" oil filter from a '40's or '50's car and adapt the tubing to the original attachment points, right side rear-ward on the push rod cover. David
  19. In general the answer to your question about identical parts having different part numbers is rooted in design engineering and quality engineering principles. The parts are not exactly identical. They may be very similar but they are not identical. A new part number is assigned when the form, fit, or function changes the mechanical drawing for the part. When the "same" part has two different part numbers, there is something different about them. The parts may be interchangeable but the difference is often not obvious.
  20. Originally the wood spokes of the smaller Standard Series Buicks, except the Country Club Coupe model, were painted the main body color. The Standard Series Country Club Coupe model and the larger Master Series cars had their wood spokes in the natural (varnished) finish. All had pin stripes.
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