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64' 425 restoration project


Guest jchagop

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Thanks Bill and Ed for all your help so far. Starting a new thread here...

Do you guys recommend powder coating the air cleaner (black), valve covers and various brackets (green to match engine color)? Need to decide the gloss percent if I do. 60% good?

Where do you recommend getting factory grade OEM springs? Here is the link to Russ's spring set:

Buick nailhead new HP Valve Springs 364-401-425:eBay Motors (item 140259658098 end time Sep-13-09 09:35:38 PDT)

You have to scroll down on the page to see specs.

Im not really looking for high performance, just want it back to its old self and of course to last. Im concerned stiffer springs may wear harder on the valves, etc. Please let me know what you think.

Since I am replacing the springs, should I replace the valve seals while I am at it? I think new valve seals would require machining the guides, is this recommended? Can I find seals that wont require modification?

Jon

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Also thinking I will replace the fan clutch and thermostat for good measure. oldbuickparts has these. The water pump should also be replaced I think. Im not sure where the best place is for a new water pump, or do you guys think I should have it rebuilt?

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Also thinking I will replace the fan clutch and thermostat for good measure. oldbuickparts has these. The water pump should also be replaced I think. Im not sure where the best place is for a new water pump, or do you guys think I should have it rebuilt?

Don't have it rebuilt! Classic Buicks (Cooling System) used to make new but it has been discontinued. Not sure where to go.

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Have you checked your old valve springs to see if they need to be replaced? If you're not wanting to go for the higher rpm's, then I'd look for the best springs available for the best price.

Replacing the thermostatic fan clutch is necessary only if your old one isn't working correctly.

Contact Paul Bowsher rocking-b@comcast.net and see if he has any Flowkooker water pumps in his inventory.

'64 nailheads did not have valve seals. If the valve guides on yours are good, that's all you need to be concerned with. If you have the heads off already, you might consider doing a good 3-angle valve job before putting them back on.

If the paint sticks, I don't see any reason to go with the powered coating. I'd stick with whatever color comes right out of the can. If you're buying a quart, you can paint all of the cast surfaces - block, heads, intake - using a foam brush. Spray all of the forged or machined surfaces - brackets, water pumps, timing covers, valley cover, valve covers.

If you're not in a big hurry to get this done, go to a couple of ROA/BCA events in your region and look at what some of the other guys did and talk to them.

Ed

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Heads passed the pressure test today. Guess they were pretty careful, the hardened seats were pretty thin and they didnt have to bore too much. They were also only installed on the exhaust side. I guess I got lucky...hope it all holds when it heats up. I took a close look at the springs, they are soft and should be changed. I understand now why there are no valve seals. Those inner springs are tight on the stems. Learning more every day...hard lessons have been brutal, but still having fun. I got the POR 15 Buick Green engine enamel. Found a powder coat thats a great color match, so Im going for it. Got a good price and was sold on the look and durability of the finish.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest 40series

bear in mind that powder coating also insulates these parts to a degree. Sounds like you are taking the right path with your project. I have never had a prroblem with a rebuilt pump but keep in mind there are three manufacturers of bearings and only a handful of rebuilders who can do it right. Thermostat is still on the shelf at most aut parts stores and i agree to replace the fan clutch only if needed.

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I went with Russ' spring set. Got a new Flowkooler water pump from the source for the 425 (401) with AC. Also just received a nice harmonic balancer from Russ...40series also has this part for those in need. Was very pleased with the quality of the oldbuickparts.com fan shroud and other parts. Radiator and AC checked out, were cleaned up, and look great. Just painted the engine bay semigloss black and will send my brake booster to Booster Dewey. I am also very pleased with the powder coat job. I think its gonna be a nice color match with the POR 15 Buick Green. If its as good as I hope I will take a pic and pass on the make and number of the powder I used. Thanks for all the help guys.

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I am also happy with my CARS fan shroud, took some fiddling to get it to keep from hitting the fan blades but it fits tight to the blades and I know its helping. Honestly the only thing keeping the car in running temps after the first pump puked iron and aluminum flakes into the cooling system 1000 miles from home.

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Dalton,

Buick made both 3 and 5 blade impellers. The 5 blade is for a/c cars and is the one you'll want for your car. If you're buying a rebuilt one, make sure the rebuilder put a new impeller on the shaft and just didn't "trim" the old one to make it look good. If there's too much clearance between the impeller and the face of the front cover, the impeller will cavitate and not move any water.

Ed

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