'68 Riv Brake Question

[jscheib]

I am wanting to redo the complete brake system on my '68 and thought I could easily order all the replacement stuff. But, it seems that the brake master cylinders and power unit can be either Delco or Bendix. I looked quickly for markings, but is there anyway to easily tell which is which so I can order the proper parts before the system is in the shop and dismantled?

I hate to lose downtime and using space in someone else's shop.

Thanks, in advance for any help.

John

[RivNut]

Someone with a '68 chassis manual can look at both and tell you the differences. If they're the same as 63 or 64 or 66 I have manuals for those years.

Ed

[jscheib]

Ed,

Thanks for the info. I do have a Chassis Service Manual, and the schematics for both units are the same, but a slight variation in the details. I think the Delco unit has a deeper dish than the Bendix, but I am not sure. I will study more.

John

[jscheib]

Ed,

Thanks for the info. I do have a Chassis Service Manual, and the schematics for both units are the same, but a slight variation in the details. I think the Delco unit has a deeper dish than the Bendix, but I am not sure. I will study more.

John

[Jim Cannon]

If you are replacing the booster and the master cylinder at the same time, then it does not really matter which you get. Just so you get the pair the same, they will work.

If you really want to put on new exactly what is on there now, pull the master cylinder off of the booster and look at the depth of the hole that the push rod presses into. It will be shallow or deep. Get the new master cylinder type that has the same hole depth. Then get the booster type to match the master cylinder type.

I hope this is clear. If not, drop me a personal message.

[Guest Riviera66]

Generally speaking, most non-disc brakes on '68s are Delco Moraine and ALL disc brakes are Bendix. A further clue is that the Delco MOraine booster is of larger diameter and unpainted (originally gold cadmium finish). A Bendix booster is a little smaller in diameter, has a smoother 'face', and is painted black.

Darwin Falk

1966-70 ROA Technical Advisor

[jscheib]

Jim,

Thanks, I figured that was the case, but I was not sure they would fit. I was hoping there might be an easy way of checking before taking it apart so we could move quickly. But your help will make it easy. There is nothing really wrong except a bit of brake wear abd some old mechanisms at the wheels. But I think after 40 years it might be time for a new system.

Thanks again for the advice.

John

[jscheib]

Darwin,

Thank you also for your comments. I have drum brakes, but I am almost certain I have Bendix master and power, so it may have been changed some time ago. It seems smaller than the usual Delco I have seen on other cars and it is painted black, but that too could have been done later.

Thanks again to all.

John

[RivNut]

When I redid the brakes on my '64 last summer, I had the drums trued, put in new wheel cylinders, and hoses, and new shoes like I've done on previous cars. BUT the biggest difference came from a new set of hardware and springs. I didn't touch the master cylinder or the booster. Start at the wheels and work your way to the master cylinder/booster. If neither are leaking, I'd see no reason to replace them.

Ed

[Guest BJM]

I know from experience that it was not fun taking the brake booster out, but can not remember why - on my 68. I would leave the brake booster in if it is working well.

[jscheib]

Thanks also for this latest advice. Not only the extra work, but Master and booster costs are up there also, so I will likely save some mony on keeping the old.

Thanks again.

John