rear disc

[Guest Squire Tom]

while on the rack flushing all tranny fluid mechanic pointed out rear driver disc leaking fluid - is there a rebuild kit for the 91 ? dealer would only replace caliper and bleed.

[Guest Squire Tom]

while on the rack flushing all tranny fluid mechanic pointed out rear driver disc leaking fluid - is there a rebuild kit for the 91 ? dealer would only replace caliper and bleed.

[Barney Eaton]

I just found an article about rear disk and the author indicates that NAPA has a kit. I cannot detect when the article was written but the kit cost was $30, close to the cost of a rebuilt caliper.

Go to http://classicbroncos.com/reardiscs.shtml

a fellow named Lars Pedersen wrote a very good article on rebuilding the GM rear piston.

[Barney Eaton]

I just found an article about rear disk and the author indicates that NAPA has a kit. I cannot detect when the article was written but the kit cost was $30, close to the cost of a rebuilt caliper.

Go to http://classicbroncos.com/reardiscs.shtml

a fellow named Lars Pedersen wrote a very good article on rebuilding the GM rear piston.

[Barney Eaton]

See the link I added to the note above.

[Barney Eaton]

See the link I added to the note above.

[Guest imported_barra]

A GM dealer charged me $279 for a rear caliper. They couldn't get the piston to go back in on mine so they "replaced" it.

[Guest imported_barra]

A GM dealer charged me $279 for a rear caliper. They couldn't get the piston to go back in on mine so they "replaced" it.

[Ronnie]

It's a good idea to consult this forum before spending so much money.

[Ronnie]

It's a good idea to consult this forum before spending so much money.

[Vincent Vega]

buy a loaded caliper and be done with it.

[Vincent Vega]

buy a loaded caliper and be done with it.

[Machiner 55]

I agree with V.V. Get a loaded caliper and save yourself the aggravation of a rebuild unless, of course, you like Extreme challenges. Been there done that. I may rebuild another in the future, after the memory of the last rebuild fades away

The rear calipers are the same for all Reatta model years:

Cardone Loaded Brake Caliper

Part Number: 164510L

Vehicle: 1991 BUICK REATTA

Engine: V6 3.8 Liter FI

Brake Caliper: Remanufactured; With Installation Hardware And Pad; Rear; Left; OE Metal Piston

Pricing: Our Price: $92.98 Core Charge: $40.00

Availability: Ships in 1 business day (7.90 lbs.)

Warranty: LTD LIFETIME REPL

[Machiner 55]

I agree with V.V. Get a loaded caliper and save yourself the aggravation of a rebuild unless, of course, you like Extreme challenges. Been there done that. I may rebuild another in the future, after the memory of the last rebuild fades away

The rear calipers are the same for all Reatta model years:

Cardone Loaded Brake Caliper

Part Number: 164510L

Vehicle: 1991 BUICK REATTA

Engine: V6 3.8 Liter FI

Brake Caliper: Remanufactured; With Installation Hardware And Pad; Rear; Left; OE Metal Piston

Pricing: Our Price: $92.98 Core Charge: $40.00

Availability: Ships in 1 business day (7.90 lbs.)

Warranty: LTD LIFETIME REPL

[Machiner 55]

I just wanted to add that the rear calipers are very different from the front calipers. The front's can be rebuilt with relative ease. The rears are probably not worth the aggrivation. Axe anybody that has done one. Go ahead, just axe them I say.

[Machiner 55]

I just wanted to add that the rear calipers are very different from the front calipers. The front's can be rebuilt with relative ease. The rears are probably not worth the aggrivation. Axe anybody that has done one. Go ahead, just axe them I say.

[Guest BJM]

Make sure both side pad depth is close, so in this case, it might be best to replace both if one is leaking...

[Guest BJM]

Make sure both side pad depth is close, so in this case, it might be best to replace both if one is leaking...

[Barney Eaton]

I'm going to write a rear brake/emergancy brake technical article for the Reatta newsletter. This post prompted me to tear down a rear caliper yesterday.

The one I did was rebuildable, but I am not sure there is a way to verify the function without having a pressure line attached to the caliper. Of course, you can mount it on the car and test but if it is not working, then off it would come and you run the risk of damaging seals when you tear down.

On the rears, a rebuilt caliper is the way to go for 90% of the Reatta owners, those of us that just like to get our hands dirty will probably rebuild them ourselves.

[Barney Eaton]

I'm going to write a rear brake/emergancy brake technical article for the Reatta newsletter. This post prompted me to tear down a rear caliper yesterday.

The one I did was rebuildable, but I am not sure there is a way to verify the function without having a pressure line attached to the caliper. Of course, you can mount it on the car and test but if it is not working, then off it would come and you run the risk of damaging seals when you tear down.

On the rears, a rebuilt caliper is the way to go for 90% of the Reatta owners, those of us that just like to get our hands dirty will probably rebuild them ourselves.

[Guest dpannell]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BJM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Make sure both side pad depth is close, so in this case, it might be best to replace both if one is leaking... </div></div>

It might be advisable to replace the hoses to both calipers too...age and internal rot. I have experienced rear caliper "lock-up" because of a rubber hose collapsing from the inside out. Dave

[Guest Squire Tom]

had dr rear caliper replaced with autozone part - mechanic is more important than source . $129 and tax out the door.