Getting a '50 Dash Clock to work - Help!

[Gary_N]

The clock in my '50 used to work. Then just stopped. I have heard that sometimes you can clean these things up and they work. So, can anyone shed some light as to just what to clean up and how?

Thanks!

Gary

[Jim Cannon]

I was never able to get the clock in my '50 Special to run for very long. After cleaning and oil a few times I gave up.

I recommend you remove it and see if you can find a watch/clock shop near you willing to clean and oil it for you.

Inside you will find a pair of electrical contacts that are all burned. They need to be filed clean after the clock guy cleans and oils the clock.

You can also check with these guys. I put one of their quartz clocks in my '63 (but it is 12 volt).

http://www.clocksandgauges.com/

I'm not sure if they go back to 1950, but they might help you find someone who does. And look in Hemmings Motor News.

Good luck!

[Guest imported_MrEarl]

Check this out

[Gary_N]

Thanks Me. E and Jim!!

[JohnD1956]

Good article Mr Earl. I'm going to try this on one of my spares for the Electra, and see what happens.

[Gary_N]

Well, took the clock out, and cleaned the points. They looked bad. When I moved the points arm, the clock started ticking. So, I guess I mimicked a little rewind charge? Got all excited thinking that I actually got the clock to work again, and put it all back together. But it didn't work when reinstalled. I did run a new wire from the fuse panel to the clock just to be sure. So, out she comes again. I think a magnifying light is in order. I'm amazed at how little I can see even with my glasses these days. Must be a burnt wire inside the clock?

Gary

[Guest pfloro]

Hello Gary:

I serviced one of these 'electro-mechanical' clocks on my '66 Mustang and can offer a few suggestions: 1) If possible, operate the clock open on the bench with a 12V source. You can then see what is going on. 2) If you have access to an ohmmeter, measure the resistance from clock case (ground) to the clock's power connection WITH THE POINTS CLOSED. NO power should be applied during this test. It should be close to zero ohms. If the resistance is infinite, there is an open in the circuit. 3) When the clock's mainspring 'unwinds', the points will close for a split second & engerize the coil. The coil's action 'winds' the clock and breaks the circuit. (Love that little <span style="font-weight: bold">ZICK</span> sound!) 4) If the clock mechanism runs but seems sluggish, the mechanism is probably gummed up from old thickened oil. Use a LITTLE denatured alcohol on a swap to clean each gear shaft at the 'bearing' ends. Let the alcohol evaporate and then lube each 'bearing' with 'clock oil'. Also, lube the point where the gear teeth mesh. I use a toothpick to 'carry' the oil droplet to the bearings.

It's important to see where the trouble is: mechanical or electrical (or both)...

Be careful not to damage the delicate 'hairspring' next to the balance wheel.

The reason the points burn is because a tiny arc is created every time the points open (winding cycle).

Over time, the points deteriorate.

The serviced clock in my Mustang has been running nonstop for 5+ years and keeps very good time!

Good Luck,

Paul

[51dyno]

try 1-800-398-3040 or 1-877-450-0110???You could probaby see better if you stopped counting that green stuff and spent some of it????????Just having fun.

[Gary_N]

51 Dyno: What are you talking about? I can spend with the best of 'em! Now selling, that's another issue.

Paul: Thanks for advice. I'll give it a go.

Gary