tbirdman Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 Ok, I got my reproduction top plate for my Detroit lubricator carb for my 32. Looking at the carb, it appears this is one of these things that could fly apart when I start removing items to replace the top plate I'm looking for some advice on the easiest way to accomplish the plate removal and installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R W Burgess Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 Can't wait for the answer to this problem Ken. Reminds me of sending a printer in for service(under warranty) a few years ago. The company opened it up, and 2 springs promptly went to "neverland", never to be seen again. I ended up with a new printer. Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted March 15, 2008 Author Share Posted March 15, 2008 I'm actually thinking of doing the carb job after I get everything back on the engine and successfully start the car. I hate to have another unknown throwned into the equation if I have trouble starting the car after my long winter project where I refurbed the engine compartment.Yes, I do not want any flying springs or screws turned that I should never had touched. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34PackardRoadsta Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ok, I got my reproduction top plate for my Detroit lubricator carb for my 32. Looking at the carb, it appears this is one of these things that could fly apart when I start removing items to replace the top plate I'm looking for some advice on the easiest way to accomplish the plate removal and installation. </div></div>Ken,It isn't all that hard. Unscrew the four screws that hold the top part (that attaches to the intake) to the base. Then lift the top part, plus accelerator pump (the brass bit that descends into the bowl) from the carb . The accelerator pump fits tightly inside the choke adjuster (starter lever in the parts book), but it will come out without damage (at least it does on mine: see photos). You can then pull the pump out of the housing, and take off the top. Once off it is an easy thing to remove the 'starter lever'. I have done this very exercise a few times not (not to replace the cover, but adjusting the float).Cheers,Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted March 16, 2008 Author Share Posted March 16, 2008 OK things did fly off Unfortunately also the repo was not a fit. So I got some questions to make sure I got it back together correctly.1. The small spring that connects to a rod that goes through the body of the carb. Is that rod's only function is to be an attachment point for the spring?On the part of the carb opposite the bowl, there are two doors like items. The doors have extensions on them that appear to rest on the circular item that is the center. Looks like there are two flat spots on this item where this doors extension should fit. I surmise the operation is to control a set air flow at idle.Thanks for your help. Though I was not successful in replacing the top, I have a good idea how this carb now functions. The joy of learning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34PackardRoadsta Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 Ken,Sorry, I forgot to mention the metering vanes. As engine speed increases, vacuum brings these open, and that action pulls up the metering jet (the thing coming up through the vanes, which then allows more fuel to be brought into the intake air stream.I have attached a bunch of photos, since pictures are worth, well, you know...Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted March 16, 2008 Author Share Posted March 16, 2008 OK, I see where the meter vanes extensions need to rest in the center piece grove.Any one know the function of the the rod that the smaller spring attached to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted March 16, 2008 Author Share Posted March 16, 2008 OK looks like I figured it out. The small spring pulls the rod forward which blocks the carb vanes from opening when the choke is open. Thanks for your help, and I learned a lot from this exercise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Ken, Have you figured out why the new Cover-plate doesn't fit?Is it for a different carb or did they make it wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Only difference in those cover plates should be Standard 8 versus Super 8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted March 17, 2008 Author Share Posted March 17, 2008 The width seems about 1/4" shorter. Perhaps since the company is new, they may have mixed up the old inventory and didn't notice the difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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