WTB -- 55 ( even 50-54 ! ) gears for IRENE - she needs them

[Rooster]

Well, after much frustration, dead end leads , broken promises and wasted time it looks like Irene needs another set of rear end gears. I've tried to re-set the backlash on what I've got but there is too much wear on the teeth to get anywhere near a compromise.

Sooooo, I'm asking for help please.

Looking for a serviceable ring gear and matching pinion out of a 1955 rear end either 3.4:1 or 3.6:1 ratio. I've already bought a new set of bearings for 55 so that's what I'm asking for in the first instance before I chase a set from

1950 -54 ( keep me in mind for those) I NEED THEM NOW !

Besides the 55 ring gear will be easier to ship because it can be unbolted from the carrier. Oh, I don't need carrier, bearings or spacer just bare gears.

If you can help get this naughty girl of mine back on the road I would appreciate it and so would she !!

[Gary_N]

Ken, don't forget the yards I sent you. There a couple of '55's in the local yard by me as well. Saw them on Sunday. I can check into that if you want.

Gary

[Rooster]

Gary, I contacted Wheatbelt, they can't help. Still waiting to hear back from Moore's. Don't know if yards are too willing to strip down rear end to get out gears.

I'm hoping that a forum member here can help out

We'll wait and see what response I get on this. Then we'll go to Plan B. Thanks for the offer, I suppose if you are close by the yard, it would not hurt to ask the question to them.

Cheers.

[progoofoff]

You have a PM

[Guest imported_MrEarl]

Ken, if all else fails I have a 55 Special and Super that I can pull the rear end from and strip the guts of whatever it is you need. Just no guarantee they are good though. I would need step by step instructions on pullin it and advise on what special tools I'd need to buy. To me an axel puller is a special tool. Let me know.

[Rooster]

Lamar , I'll send you an e-mail.

[Bhigdog]

No special tools required to disassemble, Lamar. Just to put back together.......Bob

[Rooster]

I've had offers of help to get ring & pinion out of a parts car, but that requires some extra work on member behalf.

If any member has a 1955 rear end out or in pieces already who can sell good ring & pinion to me, that would eliminate the extra work that I'll have to burden someone with.

I would be extra grateful for that.

BTW , I'll take a R & P from a 1954 Century, Super, Roadmaster ( 3.4 :1 )Dynaflow OR

as a last resort, R & P from a 1950 -53 Super, Roadmaster

( 3.6:1 ) Dynaflow if you don't mind knocking out the ring gear rivets for me please.

Thanks for any help.

[Guest imported_MrEarl]

Well, I had forgotten that the Super was missing the rear end when I got it so all I have is a 55 Special rear end . So it will be a 3.6 to 1. Here's what I found today. The housing was full of lube and didn't appear to be contaminated with trans fluid. There are some large "pits" on the teeth of the ring.The biggest being maybe 1/4 inch across and 1/16 inch deep. They look like they could be casting defects vs damage. Has anyone ever seen a casting defect such as that. Maybe I can take a better close-up picture, then if you think it's worth going any further I guess I need to remove the differential side pinions and the axles. Can someone suggest a tool for removing the lock washers that hold the axles. Can the ring and pinion all be pulled from the rear of the housing without pulling the torque tube from the front of the housing?

[Rooster]

Lamar, where exactly are the pits. As you look at the ring gear from filler hole level are they on the upper or lower " V " of the tooth.

And are they on every tooth or just on one section of teeth ?

I doubt that they are casting defects, most likely rust pits due to water condensation in the oil. A close up photo might give a clue.

Yes you can bring it all out the rear without taking off torque tube. Once the axle circlips are removed the axles slide sideways, unbolt carrier ( 4 big bolts) then remove.

To get pinion out unbolt the 3 external locknuts/ bolts then with some prying with a big tyre lever behind the pinion gear it " should " come out complete with drive shaft.

If there is no transmission in chassis then hit the driveshaft with hammer using wooden drift from the torque ball end. Then you'll have some fun trying to get driveshaft off pinion splines. If driveshaft is not being re-used then cut it off close to end of pinion and then press off what's left. Let's have a look at the pits first before proceeding any further.

The ratio will be stamped on the edge of the ring gear eg.

47 - 14 ( 3.4: 1 )

[Bhigdog]

Hey guys! If there are any pits at all on the face of any teeth the rear will be noisy. Sorry........Bob

[Guest imported_MrEarl]

These are more like baby craters so I guess this one is junk. So I'm curious. When I unscrewed the filler plug, about a half gallon of black rearend dope drained out. I wondered how the hell did they fill it that much. Then when I loosened the bottom bolt on the insp plate clear water started coming out. It appears there was water up to the level of the plug. So did this water come in from condensate and sink to the bottom over years or what. Or could the car possibly have been in some high water at some point in it's junked life. either way, the craters are within the area where the water was.

Sorry Ken, I tried.

[Guest rlbleeker]

Yep, that's exactly what it did. Warmer humid air comes into contact with cold metal parts and water condensates. It then runs/drips down and sinks below the oil where it is forever trapped.

[Rooster]

Thanks for volunteering to check it out anyway Lamar.

As they say "you don't know until you give it a go "

I'm grateful for the response on this thread. Looks like Old Tank ( Willie) might be on the trail of something and if that doesn't work out then progoofoff ( Bob) has offered to help.

rlbleeker is correct. That's exactly how the water condensation collects.

A lesson for us all --- change the oil at some point(s)

in the rear's lifetime. The factory manual says you don't have to but here's proof you do !

[Guest imported_MrEarl]

I take it the same thing happens in trannies and engines?

I am still surprised at the size of the pit/craters. It looks more like a squirrel with tungsten steel teeth got hold of it.

[Rooster]

Yes the same for engines and trannies. One reason why taxi cab engines can do so many miles is that they are hardly ever cold. That is if the car is being used 24 hours a day in shifts they are always hot and don't get a chance to get condensation. If they do go cold and get some condensation, that will be burnt off when it gets hot again which is usually soon after.