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Help with picking a Blast Cabinet


Gary_N

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Guest John Chapman

Gary,

One supplier that I've consistently seen with positive remarks is TP Tools. (http://www.tptools.com/)

I'd recommend looking on www.v8buick.com and do a search on "blast cabinet" in the Bench forum as a good starting place.

Beyond the cabinet, you'll find that the most critical element of the setup is a compressor that can keep up with the air demand. This is usually going to require a two stage pump with at least 7-8 HP and an 80-100 gal tank with a distribution system that can provide dry air. The typical light duty home garage compressor with a hose isn't going to give the performance you'll need. A good system is not a trivial investment.

I think that Matt Harwood (on this site) can provide some knowledgable insight as well.

Cheers,

JMC

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You need a 2 stage compressor about 50-60gal. size. Mines a Curtis 220v a great unit. Bought a econoline blast unit,has a front and side doors plus light and dust colecter.Good unit only draw back is that it is gravity feed,preasure feed is better for a lot of work had one like that were I worked many times faster than gravity feed.Glass beeds worked the best.Hope this helps????????

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Guest cfBuick

Gary, I have actually purchased a blast cabinet from TPTools as well. It's not super-sturdy, but it works surprisingly well. It's about 44" wide and cost me less than $500 shipped to my house.

It works extremely well. Even with my less than adequate air compressor. It made short work of all my upper and lower control arms (front and rear) when I re-did my suspension.

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Keeping the air dry is critical to a blaster's success or failure. An overworked compressor is going to make A LOT of water, and as you blast, it'll start to clog. Invest in a high-quality moisture trap and put it as far from the compressor and as close to the blaster as possible.

I have a TP Tools blast cabinet that is a top-loader. I paid less than $300 for it, and it works flawlessly. The blasting gun and siphon mechanism are pretty much the same on all their cabinets, so all you're paying for is the larger size of the box. Mine holds control arms, wheels and anything else up to about 2 feet long. Great for smaller parts, and there's not much I regret that I can't blast in it.

Hope this helps.

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Matt:

What's up with the '41? You haven't posted in long while. Actually, your site inspired me to take on the challenge. And what a challenge I have.

Thanks for the info on the blaster. I think I'll get a TP and see what happens. I have so much stuff that needs to get cleaned up.

Gary

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Keeping the air dry is critical to a blaster's success or failure. </div></div>

Yes sir, That is the truth. The whole Truth, and nothing but the Truth.

On very humid days while blasting for long periods on things like a chassies, I have filled two water separators and have had a gallon or more of water drain from the bottom of the compressor. It is best to have a compressor that will build up air and shut down for at least one third of the time for a cool down period. If you are only doing small stuff and have time between blasting I suppose you could get away with a smaller compressor but I would not recommend it for steady blasting. Dave!

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If you can find an older constructio air compressor for running jack hammers they work great to sand blasters, mine is 210cfm @ 120lbs, runs a pressure pot with a 3/8 nozzel easy.. and only uses about 3L of fuel and hour..

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Albert: Is that like Port Colborne? Wow, I spent every Sunday in the summer at Sherkston (this was back in the middle '60's). And, I was born in Brantford. Yep, me and Wayne!

Anyway, where would one find one of these industrial jack hammer compressors? Can there be that many around? Was it an expensive undertaking?

Thanks!

Gary

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OK, So Wet Blasting looks basicaly like an attachment for a high pressure washer. I think I would be careful about thrusting water and sand at the rate of 2000 to 3000 PSI at delicate body panels. I already have a high presure washer that is ajustable and puts out a max of 3000 PSI. It is not easy to hold down light parts just to wash the grease and dirt off of them as the pressure is quite high. I could see where it would be good on heavy road grader parts that I need to do though providing that it did not force sand and water in places that would cause problems down the road. One post that I read said it is great for fiberglass boat hulls and concrete where water, causing rust, would not be a problem. Dave!

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