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Key code from glovebox lock?


63Electra

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This does not sound right, but I did have a body shop guy tell me he buys cars at auction (yes old ones too) which a lot of times do not have keys. From the vin number he can order keys because he has a license to do so. If the car has original locks he says this works about 9 out of 10 times for him. You may want to check into someone you can trust in your area to do this. Just a thought.

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GO TO ANY LOCKSMITH WHO HAS BEEN AROUND A WHILE.

THEY CAN MAKE KEYS TO FIT OR RESET THE TUMBLERS.

TO GET IN THE TRUNK (FOR THE TRUNK LOCK MECHANISM)TAKE THE BACK SEAT OUT AND GATHER EVERY

SOCKET EXTENSION YOU HAVE. THEN, WITH A FLASHLIGHT YOU CAN SEE TO REMOVE

THE 3 BOLTS HOLDING THE TRUNK LOCK IN PLACE ( 7/16" SOCKET I THINK)

RICK

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It IS possible that the glove box lock cylinder will use only the outer three "cuts" of the appropriate key (door, if "two key" or ignition, if one key fits all). The door cylinder should have, usually, a 4 digit code stamped on the outer shell of the cylinder. With that code, a key code book for THAT general model year GM vehicle will generate the full code for the key, which can be cut by a locksmith or a GM dealer (with the old code book and hopefully a hand cutter).

From my experiences, if the slots (placement and width thereof) of the original Briggs & Stratton key are the same as a later model year GM vehicle, you can use the later key in the earlier cylinder. Only difference is that the earlier key is of a slightly thicker dimension than the newer key . . . but with the correct code, it works.

As mentioned, a locksmith (or a GM dealer with a knowledgeable lock cylinder person -- GM supplies many of their current key cylinders "unassembled" so that the guts can be coded to match existing keys) with the correct parts can do the deal. When starting from scratch, you can build whatever code you want for the keys. And the architecture for the old codes is the same as for the 1980s single-side keys, so the dealership's cutter should handle it (with correct calibrations for the computerized models).

Just some thougths,

NTX5467

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I remember Dad's 65 Electra having different keys for the door and ignition vs the trunk and glove compartment. My 56 has only one key for all the locks. I had a 57 once with one key too. So somewhere inbetween 57 and 65 the policy changed. Of course they went through many variations over the years. 93 the key for the ignition was different from the doors, trunk and glove box. And now we're back to one key and no keys at all for the trunk.

All this to say I think you'd be better off pulling a door cylinder if possible for the ignition key.

JD

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Guest imported_MrEarl

I don't know about later models but on the 54's the little 1/4 "X 2" shaft that goes between the trunk lock tumbler and the latch mechanism has the code on it and a local locksmith has always been able to cut keys for me from that. I always just love taking the back seat out and climbing into a trunk that hasn't seen the light of day in years, sometimes decades. eek.gif

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