Trulyvintage
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Posts posted by Trulyvintage
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So this is turning out to be the 'Winch Hotline Thread' :cool:
Update on my Harbor Freight 10K winch:
Operating great - pleased with the low gearing and slow speed
Here is a link to a universal wireless remote kit that I plan
on ordering for it - this should work on most winches:
@ Universal Wireless Remote Kit for Recovery Winches. Free Shipping.
Travel safe out there!
Jim
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Has anyone here ever bought and transported a car from Mexico into to the U.S.? I need some advice/tips/names of car transporters to get several antique cars from Puebla, Mexico into Texas, where I can sell them for the estate of the owner. I have sold cars to buyers in other countries, but have never been on the receiving end of cars coming into this country. Can anyone offer some advice? I'm really not sure where to begin.
Pete Phillips
Leonard, Texas
1949 Buick model 59
1950 Buick model 76-R
1956 Studebaker Golden Hawk
1958 Rambler Ambassador Cross Country wagon
1959 Buick Electra 2-dr. ht.
1962 Buick Electra 225
1963 Chrysler New Yorker
1963 Buick Wildcat conv.
1964 Rambler American conv.
The border Mexican states are battlegrounds.
Between human transport, weapon & drug smuggling, kidnapping,
murders are an everyday occurence.
Unless you can ship by cargo ship - you run a genuine risk
of having your vehicles never make it to the border.
It is a different time that we live in :cool:
Jim
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Neither a tow dolly or an open trailer is a substitute for secure storage
A secure storage facility with open storage & a custom fit car cover
should fit the bill
Several states I go thru require all tow dollies stop at the
weigh/inspection stations
Tow dollies are an easy target for vehicle enforcement
Jim
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How much of that $100K gets to be set-back for maintenance and climate controlled storage?
Ain't worth much after 10 years sitting outside or in storage
Jim
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Depends on your plans ....
This is your first post - did you join & post to get pricing assistance?
Do you want to restore these cars or make a buck?
If you want to make a buck - pricing can be found on your local craigslist
If you want to restore a car - plenty of help is here ....
Jim
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Jim,
If you can't return to court and the officer has incorrectly charged you with something, you can complain to his or her agency. Often when a citation is obviously issued in error the agency's internal affairs unit will direct that it be recalled or dismissed. Very few agencies actually encourage illegitimate citations. Some certainly encourage each and every legitimate one that they can, but few agencies are really corrupt. If you don't intend to contest the charge in court, you risk nothing filing a complaint with the agency. Law Enforcement Officers are human. Then can make mistakes. Like every profession, some people in it, should not be in it, due to incompetence or some other reason. Most agencies do their best to fix anything that those individuals screw up.
Matthew,
Sorry but your view is very limited & prejudicial towards law enforcement.
I was stopped last year in Pennsylvania by (2) local law enforcement officers
in separate vehicles observing interstate traffic from a median.
I was towing an empty trailer.
I was directed to a nearby truck stop for a 'safety inspection'.
I spent 1.5 hours in full view of the truck stop patrons while my truck
was searched for drugs - simply because the officer(s) believed I was
hauling drugs.
Then I received a 10 minute 'safety inspection' and was issued (3) citations
totalling about $900.
I immediately went to the local court (in an new strip mall with a new office
and two secretaries for one magistrate) where I posted bond.
5 weeks later I returned 500 miles for my 'court date'.
I waited 2.5 hours - no officers ever appeared.
The 'charges' were dismissed.
As soon as the judge took off his robe - I gave him a piece of my mind. :mad:
I did not leave the court until a minute entry was recorded & I received
a written copy that the charges were dismissed and I had received
my bond money back.
The reality of the world we live in is that revenue to operate local
government comes partly from citations written to motorists who
sometimes cannot appear in court.
I traveled over 1000 miles and spent (3) days of my time fighting
citations issued from an illegal stop resulting in an unlawful investigative
detention.
Jim :cool:
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I don't advise arguing with a law enforcement officer (unless you happen to be a law enforcement retiree like me) but, you can win in court with the judge when the officer has incorrectly charged you with a violation...Still got the ticket for the car hanging back past the rear deck of the trailer ~
Did you ever try to argue a traffic safety violation point with a state cop on the side ofthe road ?
You can never win those arguments !
You are both right
Unfortunately for most of us - we don't have the time or resources to
return hundreds of miles for a court date to argue a traffic citation
in front of a judge :cool:
So, be aware of the traffic laws of the states you are traveling thru
and accept that certain states generate revenue from passing motorists
by issuing traffic citations to them hoping those drivers will not return to contest them
Jim
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Classic car parts are selling well now ....
On the internet at least - but not at the shows
With #2 diesel at $3.25 or higher, a lot of folks can't afford to drive
a trailer full of parts a few hundred miles each way to a car show
You end up losing money
Jim
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Updated December 4th - post your buys & reviews of 12VDC winches here
October 1st thru the 3rd only
Get a decent 10K electric winch at Harbor Freight
for $299.00
Use a 20% coupon you can usually find in your Sunday coupon section
of the paper and take another $60 off
Buy the one year extended warranty for $49.99
and you can exchange your winch for a new one
if you have a problem in the first year
Don't buy the two year warranty - you only get
one exchange for each warranty
It is a decent winch with power in & out,
freespool, electric brake, slow motor speed,
100 feet of cable
Jim
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There are obviously seperate forums for cars and sick pets. My point is that they all manage to exist without going down in flames or starting WWIII. My point is that while I agree with nothing you say, I don't think that your post should be deleted simply because it is not to my liking.
You don't get it
This is a Public Forum based upon Automobiles not Pets
Obviously you believe you have the right to post about any unrelated subject
Obviously the Moderators here do not share your opinion
Neither do I
Go create your own Public or Private Forum and post away to your hearts content
Jim
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Here is your solution ...
Create your own Public Forum about Classic Cars and Sick Pets
Pay the website hosting fees and moderate it yourself - problem solved
Sick Pets and Classic Cars go together like ......
Animal Husbandry and Classic Cars ....... :confused:
This is a Public Forum called AACA not SPCA
Jim
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Great post Wayne
For anyone towing a trailer - heat is what destroys a tire from the inside out
(often before the tread has worn down)
The slower you tow - the less likely you will experience a trailer tire blowout
Jim
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I always wanted to visit here
Such a great movie and as luck would have it I just happened to
be transporting a 1963 VW 'Magic Bus' from California to Nashville
I took these pictures today
Jim
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I provide custom transport from door to door
I load & unload by electric winch even if your car runs
I do not charge extra for it - I do it because that is the
safest way to load & unload
Jim
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Jim, I think we had a discussion about the CDL licensing here in the past. The general experience was that no-one ever stops at a truck scaling station with a car trailer, so we had not heard of anyone getting stopped, weighed, and ticketed for a CDL offense.
I'm looking at a trailer with 10,000 axles now too, not for the load capacity, but for the 8 lug 16 wheels, so I can get away from my previous 15 inch may-, no make that, will-pops. :mad: I'm getting tired of changing trailer tires beside the Interstate, although I'm getting quite good at it.
Wayne
Wayne,
Vehicle enforcement has several ways of evaluating a tow vehicle.
They usually look at the VIN sticker on the driver door for
the GVWR.
Regarding a trailer .......
They can go by the manufacturer VIN or they can estimate
GVWR by making an educated guess at the axle rating by looking
at the vsize of the axle tube & bolt pattern/tire size.
With the promotion of Prepass, state agencies are focusing
more on smaller haulers.
Debate aside, the most lucrative source of revenue and the easiest
to nail a driver on is weight violation.
Again, if your tow vehicle is registered as a 'tow vehicle' you
do not have to stop at weigh stations as a general rule of thumb.
However, any weighmaster can signal you in for a discretionary
inspection at anytime .....
Wyoming, for example can have you stop at scales that are
set up all over the atate if your GVWR combined exceeds
8000 pounds - even if you are a recreational vehicle.
I travel a lot of states & I speak from experience here :cool:
Regarding tires I advocate and operate with 10 ply load range
E 7.00R x 15LT tires on 15 x 6 on 5.5 center aluminum rims.
I change out tires every 30,000 miles & generally pay $100
a tire on average.
I just put tires on in Fargo, SD last week.
My experience is that a 7.00 x 15 radial has less sidewall flex
and a higher & narrower profile.
I keep my tires at 80 p.s.i.
Jim
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10,000 pound rated axles :confused:
That means at least (2) axles which means the trailer is rated
at 20,000 pounds minimum.
No way a half ton truck is rated to pull a 20,000 pound trailer :cool:
Furthermore, if the combined GVWR of the tow vehicle & trailer
exceeds 26,000 pounds - you are required by law to have a
CDL license to operate it on the road unless the tow vehicle
is registered as a recreational vehicle in your state
Remember folks, 26,001 pounds rated equipment and above
requires a CDL license to operate regardless of the actual
load you are carrying ......
The exception is if your tow vehicle is registered as a
'recreational vehicle' ....
Jim
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Hi there,i am looking at buying a enclosed trailer for moving my cars around in,am looking at a 24 foot trailer,anyone have any advice as to what is a better type,am looking at a frame hitch,or a 5th wheel type,is one better than the other,as for stability or control,am only going to use it maybe 2 or 3 times a year,will be used for storage the rest of the time,also what type of hitch should i get,torsion bar or trunion?,i have jist started to look at trailers and am unsure exactly what i need,just looking for some advice.want at least a 24 foot body to ensure i have enough room.am planning to haul it with a 2007 Dodge 4x4 1/2 ton,5.7 motor,was told it will have enough power,only planning to tow a couple of times a year?.Thanks Harvey b
Start with the basics ...
Your tow vehicle has a tow rating - decipher it by the VIN number
thru a Dodge dealer or online
Subtract the weight of any trailer from that figure and multiply
the difference by 80% - that is your SAFE estimated payload
Combine the two and compare them to your vehicle rated tow capacity
Does it EXCEED your plans for a 24 ft. enclosed trailer?
Need storage?
Use the trailer when you are not towing
Bumper pull is your best choice - especially since you have
a half ton tow vehicle
Trunnion bar distribution system - Blue OX brand
Jim
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Just wondering if you ever got your car :confused:
Jim
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A fellow collector calls me about information on a 1915 C-36 Buick. Looking for Books. I tell him that I donated a Buick Reference Book, C-36,C-37 to the AACA Library. He said he contacted them, and they say they have nothing. I also know that there was a Delco book there for the same Model from when I was working on my car. Come on guys and gals. I didn't donate the book for nothing. Find it, and help this fellow out with a copy. :mad: Dandy Dave!
Dave,
No offense, but unless this fellow collector happens to be your brother
I would send a PM before I would post publicly
AACA is a good group of guys & gals
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Based upon personal experience and many miles towing
Your choices are spring bar or trunnion bar
Spring bar loses tension over a short period of time above
8000 pound rating - the spring bars can fall out of the head :eek:
Trunnion bar system is the only way to go
I use the Blue Ox system:
@ http://www.blueox.us/PDFS/BXW0550-750-1000-1500.pdf
Jim
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It is getting to be that time for me to be replacing the tires on my car trailer.
I noticed on one of the "RV" forums there is a lot of talk from members there that they are replacing the "ST" designated tires on their trailers with the "LT" type.
Are there any tire engineers here on the forum that can explain the pros and cons of making such a switch?
According to the RV Forum posts I have read the "LT" tires perform better and hold up better than the "ST" tires.
Is anyone here running the "LT" tires on their car trailers? If so, how are they performing for you?
Charlie,
I assume you have 15 inch tires.
I assume you have 6 inch wide rims.
My choice for a trailer tire has been decided by trial and error
traveling literally hundreds of thousands of miles across every
type of roadway in the country.
RADIAL 7.00R x 15 10 ply load range E tires
I usually get Ling Long brand.
I just put on (6) in Wichita, KS on Friday.
They will last me about 40,000 miles.
Then, I will sell them on craigslist when they have about
50% tread left and buy a new set.
7.00 x 15 was THE standard trailer and light truck tire size
years ago.
I prefer them to metric - less sidewall flexing and narrower
side profile.
I usually pay $85 to $110 a tire loose.
Pictured below is a tire that had been on my trailer about
35,000 miles that was typical of the (6) I sold on Friday
off craigslist in Wichita, KS.
Jim
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bofusmosby,
I have not attacked you
I have challenged your defintion of reasonable transport :confused:
Since you are asking my advice .....
Do not transport your car during the winter months on an open trailer
Wait until May at the earliest for open transport
The road conditions are such that unless you are planning to repaint
the car, you will cause considerable harm to the paint from salt, sand,
cinders, other seasonal road debris
Do not deal with a Broker
By definition, a broker promises to facilitate transport in exchange
for a credit card deposit
Contract transport directly with an individual who will be hauling
Arrange for your vehicle to be loaded - come directly to you
No offloading - no transfers
Be realistic in both timeframe and cost
Helena, Montana is not exactly a transport hub
Few deliveries are made to that area - fewer still in Winter
That means a connecting load necessary to facilitate transport
of your vehicle may take months to arrange
Your timeframe and transport budget are both self imposed
As eloquently explained in the post above by stealthbob:
HOMEWORK should be done before purchase is facilitated
Jim
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bofusmosby,
Your very first post - your very first sentence reads:
" Greetings all. I recently pruchased a 1937 Pontiac 4-door sedan, and am having a problem finding a transporter at a reasonable price. "
Your statements:
" The estimates ranged from the $700 to $1400 price range. I did not go with the lowest offer/estimate. I did not go with the highest either. "
" His original estim,ate was $850 (open carrier), but he went up another $100 to see if a driver would take it. "
" I also got a question from another driver wanting to know about the dates, as well as my price range. I told him in the $900 to $1200 price range. I guess that turned him off, because he never responded to my answers.
Your statement indicate you DO have an informed opinion of what
you consider a reasonable price to be ......
You CONTRACTED for a 2500 mile haul for $850.
You bought this car on January 26th on a 'Buy it Now' ebay auction.
It is clearly the worst winter in more than 30 years.
Someone does not have to be in the business to realize that expecting
to have a vehicle hauled for 30 cents a mile is not realistic.
That does not make me arrogant - that makes me realistic.
Clearly your definition of reasonable price does not meet the definition
of the majority of other people.
Jim
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My post will probably get deleted ....
No sympathy here - you did not do your homework
You bought something without budgeting for transport
I have helped out guys on other forums who have gotten
'the screw' by unscrupulous brokers or have been left
hanging by con artists .....
In this case - you have to pay to transport a car
you bought - just like everyone else who buys a car
If you can't afford to transport it - sell it where it is
Jim
Hey Peter G,
in Garages, Trailers, and Towing
Posted
A suggestion ....
Whatever you want to call it, many Forums have a Transport Board
where members can post about cars they want transported or routes
they have transport available for.
That is the place for vehicle & parts transport in my opinion
I agree this Forum is not the place for Threads about Transport
Needed or Offered.
Jim