Marty Roth
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Posts posted by Marty Roth
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Love that big Speedster !!!
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jonnyopa,
all of these are things which will ultimately make yours a better car in some way, but.....
try them - one at a time , the easiest first,
to know which one actually solved your problem, and then do all of tem if you wish.
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The RAM
was the symbol of Dodge, and Dodge Brothers automobiles
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An electric fuel pump will help with vapor lock, especially in hot weather and corn-gas.
The electric pump should be mounted as low and far back as possible. Fuel should go through a filter prior to the electric pump, and then to a pressure regulator (use a good one) prior to the carburetor. You may have to play with the pressure regulator some to get the right adjustment, but somewhere around 3 psi is a fair starting point.
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Check out the first link, Click, go to page 30, see ad by David Frear, Sparks, NV 775-335-6353 or email davidfrear@hotmail.com
He helped me a few years ago, and his parts were excellent
The Classic Car / Bulletin - The Bulletin February 2011
another link which do not know personally:
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Ron,
Do you have any extra tires/
The last Hubley 1930 Packard Phaeton kit I bought was missing 4 of the 6 tires.
Love the Packard mugs you sent me...
Marty
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In our part of the country there is no problem keeping cars warm. Thermostats keep the car from running too cold - not a problem here. I use a 160, but rarely face cold weather.
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Thank You Delta Airline Employees.
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Check to see if there is a "HEAT SHIELD" between the Starter and the Exhaust System/Manifold. You can find one of these designed for Chevy small-block engines, and can even improve it, or make one yourself. Heat can cause the problem you describe. I had that with my 1956 Chevy Bel-air convertible with the "Power-Pak" option. Changing starters didn't help, but the heat shield solved the problem.
Also, disassemble the starter solenoid and thoroughly clean the inside of the two major contacts - and if they are noticeably corroded or burned, try turning each of them 180 degrees before reassembly, and clean the area where they make internal contact.
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Thanks, Dave,
Drive what we have, and appreciate them all..
great to see NJ recovering from the effects of Sandy...
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Pretty, and typically dependable !
This would be a really neat Tour/Driver.
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Jim is right - he usually is,
Back when we dedicated the Pacific Theater Wing of the National World War II Museum here in New Orleans, the rate was about 1,000/day, and that was back in the 1990s. Considering their ever-advancing age, "THOUSANDS" would be much closer to accurate.
Dad was almost 23 when he went into the Seabees in January of 1943. He would have been 93-1/2 now. We lost him Sept 10th, 2003. Some of his problems were related to the asbestos used in the Todd Shipyard in Bayonne, NJ. His last major discussion was how sad he was to think about facing the next day's 2nd anniversary of 9/11, and comparing that to the December 7, 1941 sneak-attack on Pearl Harbor.
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What a magnificent piece of rolling sculpture.
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Lamar,
Your earlier post mentioned the LaSalle-Cad tranny, and I remember using one of those (many moons ago) when I built a "Draggin' Waggon" out of a Henry-J with a 1952 Olds 303ci V-8 and a 1937 LaSalle Tranny. Sorry top go slightly off topic, but - Now my question is:
Is/was that LaSalle tranny the same as the one in my 1941 Caddy 62 Series convertible?,
and how did that tranny compare to the one in my 1937 Roadmaster?
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Another version which may be easier to read and use:
Motor Racing Figurines
Issue: 312 Section: DIY Tech Features 5 January, 2005
Using a Vacuum Gauge for Engine Diagnostics
Simple and cheap but these readings can save you a lot of time
by Julian Edgar
Click on pics to view larger images
At a glance...
•Using a vacuum gauge for engine diagnostics
•Specific vacuum gauge readings and the problems they reveal
Email a friend Print article
A fair few years ago I was at a workshop that had just been taken over by a new proprietor. I’d known the new bloke for some time and so when I drew him aside and asked how he’d found his new facility and staff, he was frank.
"Hell," he said. "These guys don’t even have a vacuum gauge, let alone know how to use it!"
I looked around at the dyno and the fuel pressure measuring gear, at the air/fuel ratio meter and the multitudinous tools. How could a plain ol’ vacuum gauge hope to compete in this environment, I thought. But that mechanic was right: when trying to diagnose mechanical engine problems, a vacuum gauge is right up there with other diagnostic tools.
So how can measuring engine vacuum tell you anything?
Where the Vacuum Comes From
On the intake system of a petrol internal combustion engine there exists a throttle valve. It doesn’t matter if it’s an old carby engine or a fuel injected engine, in both cases power is limited by closing off the airflow. (It’s not for nothing that the valve is known as a ‘throttle’ – when less than fully open, it’s literally chocking off the airflow!)
When the engine is working at less than wide-open throttle, vacuum – or a pressure lower than atmospheric – occurs after the throttle.
Click for larger image
So when it’s sitting there idling, the engine is trying to draw in as much air as you’d expect from a big air pump, but the nearly closed throttle is actually restricting the flow to just a trickle. As a result, after the throttle there exists a vacuum. Think about it for a moment and you can see that the better the air pump (ie engine) is working, the higher will be the vacuum reading. Or, to put it another way, if the pistons rings are leaking badly, the engine will be trying to draw in less air than it should – so the vacuum won’t be as strong.
The use of a vacuum gauge plumbed into the intake system after the throttle can therefore give a guide to the engine’s mechanical health. Furthermore, the way the needle moves on the gauge can tell you additional information – especially when the throttle of the running engine is rapidly opened and closed. In fact, a vacuum gauge can give you information about problems such as:
•Rings
•Valves
•Leaking intake manifold gaskets
•Exhaust blockages
•Wrong ignition timing
•Valve timing
There’s also another advantage – a vacuum gauge costs very little. And that’s always a plus in these times of very expensive diagnostics gear...
The Gauge
Click for larger image
Any vacuum gauge that reads up to 30 inches of mercury will be fine in this application. (Note that we’re using Imperial measurements right through this article.) This gauge was picked up secondhand for a few dollars – it’s since had the glass cleaned and the brass surround polished... about 15 minutes of work.
It’s important to realise that while a vacuum gauge shows how much below atmospheric pressure the reading is, the gauge will read higher for a higher vacuum. That is, on the face of the vacuum gauge, the needle will point higher for 25 inches of mercury than it will at 20 inches, of mercury, even though 25 is a lower pressure than 20!
In some cases, especially with engines with a small number of cylinders and/or a small plenum, the gauge may dance too much as rapid fluctuations in plenum pressure affect the reading. In these cases the hose can be pinched a little to dampen the plenum pressure pulses.
Connecting the Gauge
Click for larger image
There’s engine vacuum – and then there’s engine vacuum. When measuring engine vacuum for diagnostics, it’s important that you tap into the plenum chamber rather than on the throttle body itself. In some cases, throttle body vacuum connections will be of ‘ported vacuum’, which changes in an odd way as the throttle is opened. Also make sure that all the factory vacuum lines remain connected (that includes brake booster, charcoal canister, distributor vacuum advance [if fitted] MAP sensor, etc) before starting diagnostics, and the engine should also be up to normal operating temperature.
Vacuum Gauge Diagnostics
Click for larger image
•Normal Engine at Idle
When the engine is healthy and working correctly, at idle the needle of the gauge should be steady and within the range of 17 – 22 inches of mercury.
Click for larger image
•Normal Engine when Throttle Snapped Open and Closed
Vacuum should drop to 3 and then momentarily climb to 25 – 28 before settling back at the previous value. This indicates that the valves and rings are OK.
Click for larger image
•Poor Rings or Oil at Idle
The needle will be steady but the reading will be lower than normal.
Click for larger image
•Poor Rings or Oil when Throttle Snapped Open and Closed
Vacuum will drop to near zero and then momentarily climb to about 22 before settling back to previous value.
Click for larger image
•Sticky Valve
The needle will drop occasionally about 4 inches of mercury from its normal idling reading.
Click for larger image
•Burnt Valve
The needle will regularly drop by a greater amount than with a sticky valve – eg 6 inches of mercury.
Click for larger image
•Leaky Valve
The needle rapidly drops two or more inches each time the valve should be closed. May also indicate a misfire.
Click for larger image
•Loose Valve Guides
Fast vibration of the needle between 14 and 19 inches of mercury.
Click for larger image
•Weak Valve Springs
When revving the engine hard, needle varies between 14 – 22 inches of mercury. As rpm increases, a wider variation occurs in needle movement.
Click for larger image
•Leaky Intake System
Needle reads low (eg below 5 inches of mercury) at idle. May also indicate late ignition timing or incorrect camshaft timing.
Click for larger image
•Leaky Head Gasket Between Cylinders
Needle floats regularly between 5 and 19 inches of mercury. May also indicate intake manifold gasket leak at an intake port or a faulty injector.
Click for larger image
•Blocked Exhaust
High reading at first but suddenly returns to zero then builds slowly back to about 16 inches of mercury.
Click for larger image
•Clogged PCV or Intake Manifold Leaks
Needle moves slowly through a wide range of readings. Also check idle air/fuel ratio.
Conclusion
Obviously vacuum gauge readings cannot be definitive, but they can save a you a lot of time and money in chasing down obscure problems.
Altitude?
If looking at the absolute readings, it’s important that you remember that the vacuum readings will decrease as your altitude increases. So if you live on top of a mountain, remember to drop 1 inch of vacuum for each 1000 feet you are above sea level.
Acknowledgement: The vacuum gauge diagrams used here are drawn from Automotive Service Technology, by Clifford Tempest.
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Another version of how to use a Vacuum Guage to diagnose problems:
Engine Testing with a Vacuum Gauge
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Vacuum gauges have been a valuable tool to mechanics for years. Even with modern computer controlled engines a vacuum gauge is still a valuable tool for diagnosing engine and transmission problems.
Engine/Transmission Relations
An important part of transmission diagnosis is to make certain the engine operates properly. If the engine performance is incorrect, the transmission will receive the wrong information. Many times what is perceived as a transmission problem is in actuality an engine problem. The engine sends signals to the transmission through a vacuum line, throttle cable or both. These signals basically synchronize torque with transmission line pressure, shift feel and shift timing. Malfunctions in items like the air filter; spark plugs, EGR valves and other parts of the fuel, electrical and emission systems could result in improper transmission performance.
Vacuum Gauge Engine Performance Testing
A vacuum gauge shows the difference between outside atmospheric pressure and the amount of vacuum present in the intake manifold. The pistons in the engine serve as suction pumps and the amount of vacuum they create is affected by the related actions of:
•Piston rings
•Valves
•Ignition system
•Fuel control system
•Other parts affecting the combustion process (emission devices, etc.).
Each has a characteristic effect on vacuum and you judge their performance by watching variations from normal. It is important to judge engine performance by the general location and action of the needle on a vacuum gauge, rather than just by a vacuum reading. Gauge readings that may be found are as follows:
Normal Engine Operation
At idling speed, an engine at sea level should show a steady vacuum reading between 17" and 21" HG. A quick opening and closing of the throttle should cause vacuum to drop below 5" then rebound to 21" or more.
General Ignition Troubles Or Sticking Valves
With the engine idling, continued fluctuation of 1 to 2 inches may indicate an ignition problem. Check the spark plugs, spark plug gap, primary ignition circuit, high tension cables, distributor cap or ignition coil. Fluctuations of 3 to 4 inches may be sticking valves.
Intake System Leakage, Valve Timing, Or Low Compression
Vacuum readings at idle much lower than normal can indicate leakage through intake manifold gaskets, manifold-to-carburetor gaskets, vacuum brakes or the vacuum modulator. Low readings could also be very late valve timing or worn piston rings.
Exhaust Back Pressure
Starting with the engine at idle, slowly increase engine speed to 3,000 RPM, engine vacuum should be equal to or higher than idle vacuum at 3,000 RPM. If vacuum decreases at higher engine RPM's, an excessive exhaust back pressure is probably present.
Cylinder Head Gasket Leakage
With the engine Idling, the vacuum gauge pointer will drop sharply, every time the leak occurs. The drop will be from the steady reading shown by the pointer to a reading of 10" to 12" Hg or less. If the leak Is between two cylinders, the drop will be much greater. You can determine the location of the leak by compression tests.
Fuel Control System Troubles
All other systems in an engine must be functioning properly before you check the fuel control system as a cause for poor engine performance. If the pointer has a slow floating motion of 4 to 5 inches - you should check the fuel control.
Recap •Engine problems can affect transmission performance.
•If you suspect an engine problem, connect a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold.
•Note the location and action of the vacuum gauge needle.
•Use the information in this article to determine the engine problem.
•Correct the engine problem before doing extensive calibration work on the transmission.
Performing A Vacuum Gauge Test
Connect the vacuum gauge hose as close to the intake manifold as possible and start engine. Run engine until normal operating temperature has been reached and then allow to idle. On V type engines having two manifolds, make separate tests on each manifold. If required, set the idle adjustment on the carbuetor so that the engine idles smoothly.
NOTE: Vacuum readings will vary according to the altitude in different localities. From sea level to 2,000 feet elevation all normal engines should show a vacuum reading between 17 to 21 inches. Above 2,000 feet elevation the vacuum reading will be about one (1) inch lower per each 1,000 feet rise in elevation.
CHART OF VACUUM READINGS
Engine Speed
Reading
Indication of Engine Condition
Smooth and steady idle
(800 to 1200 RPM) Between 17 to 21 inches Engine is in Good Condition, but perform next test to be sure.
Open and close throttle quickly Jumps from 2 to about 25 inches Engine is in Good Condition.
Smooth and steady idle Steady, but lower than normal reading Worn rings, but perform next test to be sure.
Open and close throttle quickly Jumps from 0 to 22 inches Confirms worn rings.
Steady idle Intermittent dropping back 3 or 5 divisions and returns to normal Sticky Valves. If injection of penetrating oil into intake manifold temporarily stops pointer from dropping back, it's certain the valves are sticking.
Steady 3000 RPM Pointer fluctuates rapidly, faster engine speed causes more pointer swing Weak valve springs.
Steady idle Fast fluctuation between 14 to 19 points Worn intake valve stem guides. Excessive pointer vibration at all speeds indicates a leaky head gasket.
Steady idle Constant drop Burnt valve or insufficient tappet clearance holding valve partly open or a spark plug occasionally miss firing.
Steady idle Steady 8 to 14 inches Incorrect valve timing. It must also be remembered that vacuum leaks and/or poor compression can result in a low vacuum reading.
Steady idle Steady 14 to 16 inches Incorrect ignition timing.
Steady idle Drifting from 14 to 16 inches Plug gaps too close or points not synchronized..
Steady idle Drifting 5 to 19 inches Compression leak between cylinders.
Steady idle Steady below 5 inches Leaky manifold or carburetor gasket, or stuck manifold heat control valve.
Steady idle Floats slowly between 12 and 16 inches Carburetor out of adjustment.
Blipping engine speed Quick drop to zero then return to normal reading Muffler is clear.
Blipping engine speed Slow drop of pointer then slow return to normal reading Muffler is choked or blocked.
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I can't put my hands on a copy right now, but:
I REMEMBER THAT EARLY EDITIONS OF:
motors manual HAD a series of diagrams showing varied types of VACUUM readings and fluctuations, describing what they could mean.
Here is a link to such a chart with pictures and descriptions;
http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm
and here are the individual descriptions without pictures
Vacuum gauge chart
Normal engine
Steady gauge 18"-20"
at all speeds.
Throttle is
released and engine
quickly drops from over 2000 RPM to idle.
Needle jumps 2" - 5" above normal, then drops to normal without pause or hesitation.
Needle wavers rapidly
between 10"-20" at idle, becomes worse at higher RPM. Weak or broken valve spring causing valve to open slowly.
Needle wavers irregularly
Needle wavers at idle, fluctuates rapidly in smaller range at higher RPM. Manifold leak at intake port.
Steady low
Less than 2" down from normal.
Retarded ignition timing.
Drifts at idle,
stabilizes at higher RPM
Burnt valve; combustion chamber leak.
Steady very low
Late valve timing
Wavers irregularly
in one range despite engine speed.
Unbalanced carburetion; improper spark plug gap; ignition timing; poor valve seating.
Steady Extremely low
Up to 15" drop
Warped or cracked intake manifold. Bad carburator-to-manifold gasket.
Vacuum averages lower than normal at idle
needle fluctuates almost 3" on both sides of normal.
Worn valve guides admitting air, and upsetting carburetion.
Needle rhythmically drops
1"-7" below normal
Leaking combustion chamber or valve; ignition or plug failure effecting one cylinder
Needle drops rapidly
but intermittently and then recovers. Valve sticking at times, or won't close properly.
Needle jumps 2"- 5" above normal
upon quick deceleration, but hesitates at a higher pressure before returning to normal. Restricted exhaust system causing back pressure.
Drops to 0" then rises
under full throttle with increased RPM. Dirty air cleaner; Undersized carburetor; restriction in exhaust system. Needle does not jump much beyond normal when throttle is quickly closed, and engine speed is cut from above 2000RPM to idle. Piston rings may be worn and allowing blow-by into the crankcase.
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It is my understanding, that maintenance items may be replaced without affecting originality. Hoses, hose clamps, belts, and similar items, are, as I understand it, considered maintenance items. If I'm not correct, someone please advise all here. If a maintenance item was previously, but incorrectly replaced, can't it now be replaced with the correct maintenance item? What are some other examples of maintenance items which can be replaced without affecting originality?
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I've made Hershey for -- well this will be my 30th Straight Year with out a miss, and in the same CG-32,33,34 spaces since 1984, and some others prior to that, going back to the 1950s !
The Serpent Bulb Horn and George Grew's Model F Buick are among my biggest regrets, but each year it seems that, about the time we hit Southbound I-81, I get a case of the Would-a, Could-a, Should-a regrets.
I can only imagine what my garage (as well as under the spare bed) would look like today - even more packed than it is, with "stuff" for the kids to dispose of, or divvey-up when I'm at room-temperature and they have to pry my hands off the Packard steering wheel
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Another option?
Keep your Skylark as you prefer...
buy a nice looking convertible with a soft clutch, or even a Hydramatic for your wife to enjoy,
or if you must -- convert to a "His & Hers" shifter - Did Buick have these? or was it only Oldsmobile - should carry over...
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John,
Insist that the production company provides you with an Insurance Policy indemnifying YOU with $10,000,000 liability, and full value Comprehensive & Collision for your vehicle.
DO NOT PLAN TO USE YOUR ANTIQUE CAR INSURANCE !! BUSINESS/COMMERCIAL USAGE WILL VOID THE TERMS OF MOST POLICIES !!!
You should be paid based upon the time the vehicle is AVAILABLE to the production, not how much time it appears on film.
Your car should be earning a minimum of $350 to $750/day if used as a non-driving - background vehicle, and double or triple that if used as a driven vehicle - more if a lead character is doing the driving instead of you!
You should also be paid separately, not as a (lowly) extra, but as a "Picture Car Driver". Rates will vary, but are based upon an eight-hour day - plus overtime!
You should eat with the Crew, and not with the extras. The crew typically have three well-catered meals, while extras get spaghetti at a church down the road.
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Really neat creativity.
We once created the image of a 1959 Chevy Impala having Backed through our son's upstairs bedroom wall, complete with taillights flashing, and a license plate with his name.....wish we still had photos of that, but most old prints were washed away with Hurricane Katrina's flood waters.
Congratulations on a great project, and thank you to Mickey McChesney for encouraging a young hobbyist.
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Great Stories.....
My father, too, served in WWII - US Navy - Seabees - 6th Special Battalion, Island-Hopping across the Pacific from 1943 through the duration of the War in the Pacific, establishing Port and Landing Strip Facilities to enable to movement of materials, supplies, fuel, armaments, ammunition, and personnel. Like Jim's father, he rarely spoke of his experiences, but when he did, it was with a touch of sadness - he did what had to be done. He had been in a "protected" job, working in the Todd Shipyards in Bayonne, NJ, and could have stayed, but felt the personal need to serve. Having been married only 19 months, it could not have been easy to leave a good job, a young 22 year-old wife and three month old son (me), and secure existence to head for the unknowns of war in the newly-created Naval Construction Battalion - Seabees. Yet he, and thousands of others did exactly that. How many of us would have the vision, and the courage, and the personal integrity to do that today?
Please take the time to thank a Veteran, and to thank those who currently serve.
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1939 dodge won't start or attempt to
in General Discussion
Posted
Disconnect the battery cable,
Loosen the starter attaching bolts to see if you can disengage the starter drive (Bendix) from the flywheel
Per rocking the car - be sure the parking brake is off when car is in 3rd gear - then try to rock