Marty Roth
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Posts posted by Marty Roth
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You could just leave the mechanical pump in place without negative consequence - except if the diaphragm were ruptured it could send gas into your oil, diluting the oil and ultimately causing an explosion - but this would be the case even without an auxiliary electric pump.
Install the electric pump as far to the rear, and as low as reasonable. Electric pumps are "PUSHER", not "PULLER" style.
You do not need to have the electric running all of the time. If your car has been sitting up for an extended time, and if gas has drained back, the electric pump can be used to prime the fuel line, provide gas to the mechanical fuel pump, and therefore to the carburetor. A couple of quick pumps on the accelerator pedal (without turning on the ignition switch) will get gas into the float bowl, and will set the automatic choke. Then you can:
1. turn off the electric pump,
2. turn on the ignition switch,
3. step on the Accelerator pedal
Your Buick should start right up.
Later, while driving, if as a result of heat or ethanol gas, you happen to notice your car surging or showing signs of hesitation, it is likely experiencing "Vapor Lock". When this occurs, simply switch ON the electric pump and allow it to run. Even a short time is generally enough to clear the vapor-lock and allow your car to run well, but at times you may need to keep it running, depending on external conditions.
It makes little sense to install the electric pump, and then to bypass the mechanical pump which is generally more than capable of maintaining you car's operation. Besides, what if you had an electrical failure? Generally you could make it home, especially if you turn off the radio, heater, use only parking lights if travelling with other cars, etc. But if you depended solely on an electric fuel pump, that is one more current draw!
Good Luck,
Marty
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David1966,
NOTE: Your car is NEGATIVE GROUND --- NOT POSITIVE !!!
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Has anyone checked for a bent rear axle ?
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The spring in your relief valve may have been replaced with one of too heavy a value.
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While I haven't done it yet, I was planning to do exactly what Larry suggested. I believe, since my tow package on both my 2002 Suburban 2500 and my 2000 Excursion are set up for trailering, and that the (hot lead) #4 pin is activated only when in the "run" position, because my battery does recharge while I drive.
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Mike,
Wheel boxes in my trailer are five (5") inches tall. I designed the trailer with a high floor to clear the 6,000 lb axles and 235/85R-16 LRE tires -
BUT the requirement was 5" wheel box height - this design element was so that even the lowest of my cars could open the driver's door over both the wheel box and the driver's side escape door.
Since it is a very high step, I also carry one of those folding steps which are made to hang over the tire of a truck. When this is hanging on the trailer tire I can step out of the escape door down onto the step, and then to the ground without jumping (getting up is MUCH easier too!).
Per you #3-photo-comment, that is not the norm for travel. I had picked up multiple sets of trailer wheels/tires for my other closed, open, and utility trailers, and also have the spare rear-axle for the 733 Packard mounted on spare wheels, and tied down for the move to another storage. Yes, there is still plenty of room for the biggest cars!
The extra long escape door allows egress from all of my cars while properly locating the car for balance
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In your case, since it has been 18 years, I would drop the pan and ensure that all is clean and that no sludge has built up. I would then use Shell Rotella (or comparable) 15W-40 as used in modern Diesel car and truck engines because they have better properties comparable to the way your car was designed (and possibly more zinc) although many will argue this point - still, it cannot hurt, and may likely help.
Good luck Bob,
Marty
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I've had excellent service from Coker - less so from one of the other companies
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Sometimes utility and urgency thereof tends to override daily scrubbing - but the cardboard on the floor does help with pre-war cars and their tendancy to "Mark Trail"
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Wayne, I just tried it with the correct name spelling, and even without a location - it came up properly
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Wayne, I sent you an email with the contact info
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I also thought DeSoto/Chrysler -- especially with the note of the dual fresh air intakes in the cowl and juice brakes for so early a car.
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That sounds like the wheels used on the 1933 Packard 733
CORRECTION: MY TYPO - MAKE THAT THE 1930 PACKARD 733
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Fred called me this afternoon and we had a nice chat for half an hour. He recommended a couple of places in Louisville where I could get an alignment. He said they only accept new members into their chapter of the AACA in October which I thought was a little weird. He said to contact him in August or September so I could fill out an application. They have a limit of 275 members so I guess they can pick and choose among the applicants. Are all chapters like that?
NO, Most Regions are not limiting the number of members, but a few have grown quite large, and as NXT5467 noted : it can be a good network to associate with, just as BCA membership can also be.
get back with me anytime, as well
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Was that your neighbor "LEFTY"?
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I guess this would count:
Texas Bride
and
Louisiana Cajun Groom
married at beautiful Plantation House on Mississippi River.
I gave them a ride in honor of their wedding day which they said they would always appreciate
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Paul,
Are you saying that all Series 50 Exhaust Manifolds will interchange from 1933 through 1950 ??
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Mike in snowy Colorado,
No time to wax the trailer, or even to clean up the dirty floor - we're too busy having fun driving our '37 Buick Roadmaster - only in the mid-60s today under sunny Louisiana skies in preparation for New Years Eve. Back home now, but just enough time to get these photos for you of our trailer lights:
4 in the center of the ceiling, but I would like to split these into off-set pairs - not only down the center where they are directly above the car
4 in the lower sidewalls at about wheel-level
4 strips of LEDs about where the tie-downs attach to most of my cars (better than holding a flashlight with my teeth)
Sorry for the dirt, but if you want to get away from the cold and snow, you can come on down (and wax my trailer?)
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We're back home safe and sound after driving the '37 Roadmaster today - we met this couple who got married at one of our favorite plantation houses today.
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To mark the last day of 2014, we drove the 1937 Roadmaster upriver to Oak Alley Plantation to celebrate beautiful sunny skies and temps in the mid-60s. A Louisiana Cajun gentleman and his Texas bride were married there at the plantation house today....
Don't they just look great in their elegant attire. Yes, we gave them a ride in the Buick which they said they'll remember all their married life.
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Taking the '37 out today for a drive up the river to historic Oak Alley Plantation in Vacherie, Louisiana - then back to New Orleans by late afternoon - and home before the New Year's Eve madness in the French Quarter.
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I haven't received any emails from anyone.
Since you havent received either of the two emails I sent via our FORUM system, you may want to check and see if your set-up profile included the correct email address.
In the mean time, go to the AACA HOME PAGE, click on Regions, and scroll down to Kentucky, and you'll find contact information for the Region in Louisville. Then you can contact Fred Trusty who is president of that Region. I'm sure the members - local to your home - can give advice on shops in your hometown who are dependable and experienced in performing alignments on vehicles of your Buick's vintage.
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I think Rusty is correct.
I had to do the same emergency "FIX" more than once over the years when a heater core would fail and start leaking coolant onto the passenger's feet or the front right carpeting.
This is a bypass.
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Try calling Bob's in California.
805-434-2963
Mine is not right here, but if it is the same as a 1937, try this link: http://bobsautomobilia.com/shop/cooling-system/page-6/
1955 Oil Pan Sludge
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Not saying it is the best way, but.......
years ago I bought a beater of a 1960 Valiant with way over a couple of hundred thousand miles on it. It ran poorly, missing, and using lots of oil. A Porsche mechanic/friend met me at his shop in nLong Island City, NY on a Saturday morning. I drove onto a set of ramps, drained the oil, changed the filter, and added a mixture of 60% 10W-40 detergent oil and 40% ATF. We partially blocked the radiator with cardboard and ran the engine at about 1700 RPM for about 20 minutes at high temperature just below overheating - then immediately drained the oil. We repeated this process with fresh filters 3 or 4 times until the drained oil came out as clean as it went in, and then did another change with just detergent oil. The end result was that the "stuck" rings freed-up and stopped the oil consumption, and the newly-cleaned valve lifters started working properly. The old slant six ran like a charm for years afterward and was then passed on to a friend who, as far as I know may still be driving it.
The flush did a great job of cleaning out the accumulated sludge and bringing back many miles of useful life.