mrgearhead1

John To tune the carby 1) warm up the engine. 2) Put spark lever in middle position. 3) Open throttle quickly.(CAUTION do not over rev engine) 4) Listen for slight popping sound. 5) Unscrew richening screw. 6) Repeat steps 3 thru 5 until popping sound. 7) Turn screw in one click at a time until pop is just gone. You may have to carefully remove arm and reset it. This tuning information is found in the MECHANICS INSTRUCTION MANUAL, DODGE BROTHERS MOTOR CARS, GRAHAM BROTHERS TRUCKS, published April 1927, page 143. Cheers Reuel

Gundog No the .004 is based on the length of the particular valve. The 12 volt Dodge 4 has a 6.5 valve length. The temperature of the intake verses exhaust I went on the supposition that they both are at the same temperature. I will be verifying temperature over the next couple of weeks. In order for it to make a difference the exhaust valve must be approximately 30 degrees F higher then the intake. Well as mentioned I will be verifying over the next coup of weeks. In order to calculate the expansion I need the valve length and running temperature. Reuel

John I calculated the expansion of the steel at running temperature of 160 degres F. Assuming the valve is the same temp. as the block add .004 in. to the factory setting on page 134, MECHANICS INSTRUCTION MANUAL, APRIL 1927. OK the setting is .008 intake, .009 exaust. Hope this helps answer your question. Reuel (rule)

Allan I had a friend that had a ROOF head on his 1921 Dodge Roadster. The engine was fresh and all broke in and ready for the road. 30 days later he was going up a long climb and desided to pass his friend 1930 Packard. Well just after passing the Packard the crank blew out the bottom of his new engine. Yes It will vastly increase the power and rip your engine block and crank appart. You are farther ahead to stick with the Richardo head. That is what my friend did and after loosing his engine. found a Richardo and built a new engine and left the rest on the shelf. If you have a extra Richardo I'm interested. Maybe I can duplicate it. Well enough of my dreaming. Cheers Reuel

Marty the range for rods and mains is .002 to .0015. you are right about to so called experts. I too got bit. not only did he bore the mains crooked but the center manin was higher then the front and rear. In defence of the chap who had his engine done the good ones will give you names of customers and allow you to call and ask questions. my freind just had his 1911 buick rebiult and it was to top notch job and runs like a champ. by the way I did the bottom end of my 23 screenside 17 years ago and it is still not the road today. cheers Reuel

Eric The Dodge Brothers Club has all the information on Dodges from 1914 through 1938. This also includes restoration and parts to keep it on the road. Go to dodgebrothersclub.org Enjoy driving a piece of history it is just as fun as my sisters 427 400 horse vet. Its gear jamming with out sincrose and mechanical brakes that squeak. Reuel (rule)

John I ran my 1923 Screenside delivery for 10 years with just the 2in. Then I put the correct little piece on the back end of the muffler. My muffler is a 2 inch cherry bomb. Here in the US that is the most inexpensive and simplest legal muffler you can buy. It is still on the truck and now it has been 17 years. Oops I side tracked. With all that horse power in your Dodge, 37 per the book. The only thing I noticed, was a change in the tone. No loss in power. It still powers up the steepest street in my city. The street is a 7% or 8% grade and the old Dodge goes up in second gear at 10 to 15 mph. Joking aside there isn't much difference. With 4.5:1 compression, timing and carburetor tuning are what’s really noticeable. Reuel (rule)

Dave The steel plate on the front of the frame cross member with three (3) bolts is the entire front motor mount. Thats the whole thing in a nut shell. Reuel (rule)

John I just meaured the out side diameter of the original exaust pipe and tail pipe on my 1920 dodge. Up by the engine before the muffler 2.0 in. (50 mm), after the muffler 1.312 in.(33.3mm). The tail pipe curves gently under the wooden floor boards and just behind the drivers seat is the muffler. The tail pipe goes straight out of the muffler 6 in. (152 mm) and curve straight down about 6 in. (152 mm) and then curve out toward the back about 6 in. (152 mm) and then ends about 12 in. (.3 m) from rear end. Yes its micky mouse but welcome to the roaring 20's. The exaust system ends under the car. Reuel (rule)

Nick One of the tricks to try is to carefully pull the clutch out of the transmission and fit it on the six (6) flywheel pins first. Now remove the top off of your transmission and re-install the clutch in the trans. This all can be done sitting on the garage floor. The reason for opening the trans is the GEAR #20 in the front of the trans slides onto the square end of the clutch. Slide clutch in front bearing and with your hand align gear onto square clutch shaft. slowly put trans cover back on. Be sure to line up the (3) shifter forks on the top of the trans cover with the grooves in the gears in the trans. Bolt cover on. Now you lift trans and bell housing up to engine and reaching through the bell housing dust cover slide the anti rattle springs on to the fly wheel pins. Slowly slide trans and clutch onto flywheel. Approximately 1/2 inch (12mm) from engine flange rotate trans to line up the two (2) pins in the engine. Finish sliding on the trans and put bolts around flange and your transmission is in. Have fun Reuel

Mark On the early 1926 to 1914 Dodges to drain the oil: 1. Open hood on carburetor side. 2. Put oil drain pan under front of oil pan. 3. Just below the starter generator at front of oil pan you will see a copper tube and two bolts holding the flange in place. 4. Carefully remove one of these bolts. 5. If oil does not come out, carefully poke a Phillips screw driver in hole to loosen sludge. Be careful there is a screen inside the pan just in front of the flange. That screen is your only oil filter. Crude, but "marginally effective". Sorry Oil filters were not invented in 1919. 6. Let drain. 7. Tighten bolt back in place. Do not over tighten. These old bolts are not good modern steel. Grade 8 is a good modern bolt. Grade 5 is OK. These at best are Grade (negative) -5, or as we call them technically "GUM GOO STEEL". Now that you have drained the oil, it is time to add oil. Pour in 5 quarts of 10W 30 detergent oil. Don't worry this engine is well designed and the detergent will help clean your engine. Drive and have fun for the day or so. Then changed the oil and now you have flushed your engine and it is time to drive it and enjoy the fun. Oh as for the dip stick. Just in front of the carb and above the starter generator between the front two cylinders you will see a wire rod poking up through the block. That is the dip stick. It has a brass float soldered to it. The top of the rod should be between the cast bumps on the cylinders. Feel with your fingernails and you will notice the bumps. One at the bottom and one at the top on the front cylinder. Just stoop down and if the rod is between the bumps, step on the starter button and have fun. Reuel (Rule).