joes39-4

Wow it's been a while!!!! Finally this weekend I got the time to try the old doodlebug. I'll try to go over this as best I can. ...Put battery in and tried it. No start. ...Following advise, I tore the vacuum pump down and found stuck mechenism. Stuck "calling" for gas. Repaired, oiled rinsed with gas blah blah. ...I had installed a small cock valve and oiler cap on top of the pump to prime it with gas and then shut it off. Did that. starter motor cranked it for 15-20 secs and it started. ...Ran really well. Shut it down and added water, hooked up thottle did a little punch list of stuff and it would not start again. ...Removed carb. The floating atomizer or whatever looked great not sticking...I dont have a screw like mentioned above. Mine hooks to the dash board lever. Yep I do have the screw it dictates the home position. But, I have some trouble where the metering rod should be when I assemble it. ...Tried it again and it started ran good. Removed the metering rod lever and used a screwdriver to find a sweet spot. Ran for a few minutes and died. Started motored it a fair amount and finally kicked off. Then stalled. ...I think its timing??. Checked point gap. Sorta big. Set them back to around .022". Cleaned points. ...Started up ran so good, I tried a small ride. Took off great (annoying flat spot on the rear tire). Then it started to bog down. Excuse the terminology but it got downer and downer like I was dragging one of those tractor pull sleds and finally quit. ...Motor really really hot. Not siezing though. Still turns over. Tow it home. Rotor was kinda loose. ...I gave up for this week. Now for my questions. ***How do I set the metering rod for a static position? ***How do I set the rotor? When the points open, #1 cyl on TDC or the scribed line on the FW is lined up, the rotor looks like it is between two cyls. I guess it should be AT the #1 tower on the cap at that time. ***If the rotor was moving as it died on me, Do the symptoms match the episode? Finally, Please give me a few step by step procrdures to get her dun...I'm really close. I am really greatful for any input you folks can give. Quick story before I go. A few years ago I stored the bug in the machinery shed. Got it running in the spring. Drove it a round and the motor bogs down like now. Damn mice got in through the timing mark hole and built a nest between the flywheel and housing, Finally the nest rolled into a wad and started to lock the motor. But when it died, it wouldn't turn over.Had to do some tear down to fix. What a drag!!! Speaking of mice..1959 Massey Ferg diesel wouldn't crank over THIS spring. Mice took orchard grass seed and went up the exhaust pipe, piled seed ontop of a piston and bound that up as well. I hate mice!! Thanks Joe.

Hi Bob...I have been to a museum somewhere that had a display of WW1 DB with full size manniquins (fake people). Really neat!! I need to chat with my darling better half to see if I can figure out where it was. I'll figure it out though. You may be interested.

Hello Wenthur...I have a complete front end like yours drums and all. I have to make a trip to my farm to check it out. As soon as I saw the front rims with the spokes I knew I could help. My guess is I have the whole dang thing backing plates and all. My 1919-23 DB needs a new rotor...???? Thanks Joe-Binghamton NY

What a beauty!!I found a motor for it in a field and had to sleeve the #4 cyl. Runs great most of the time...Now though when/if i get it to start it loads up horrrible with raw gas. Black smoke come out the pipe etc. I can not figure out why it does that. When I first got it running it did that and then went away by its self and ram great. Also the head is really rounded off compared to another I have that is rather square looking. any help on the years. Thanks Joe.

Hey folks, I got a 39 when I was 17 yrs old 28 yrs ago!! Finally I'm ready to get back at it. Been garage kept really not too bad. The front tires are tipped in at the top all the way intil the rubber bumper on the UCR hits the frame. With the rubber bumper off it kinda "overcenters" and locks . If I install the bumper the pressure tends to crush the rubber. If I stand and bounce on the frame at the front bumper mount I can get to observe the coil spring compress and the members do thier thing. I just watched a 39 on you- tube and it didnt have fenders etc and seemed fine. Oh, I have the motor in it. Now for the confession....the car came with stamped control arms. I found a 39 in the junk that had forged control arms. Thinking mine was basterdized, I swapped them out. I saw some years later that the model year was split by the two types. Mine being stamped was the later style. I dont think the rubber bumber should be squished and I believe there should be enough weight without the fenders and stuff to compress the coil spring and ollow the front wheels to not be tipped as bad as they are. I could explain more if I need but, what do you guys think?? Coil springs different? Goemetry from the two types different? This delemma is where I left off all those years ago and would like to get this one behind me finally. Thanks Joe