John_Mc
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Posts posted by John_Mc
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37 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:
The fines seem excessive but it sounds like he ignored them for a long time, had a pile of derelict cars in his back yard, and only cried foul when the penalties finally got out of hand. That's kind of the point of penalties and interest, no?
This isn't some poor, earnest hobbyist working on a Model A in the driveway, it's a hoarder keeping a pile of trash in his yard and ignoring the reasonable attempts by the city to deal with him until it got so serious he couldn't ignore it any longer. I guarantee it was affecting his neighbors and their property values and people do take that pretty seriously. Having lived next to a hoarder (I foolishly bought in the winter when all their crap was hidden by snow) I can tell you first-hand that it is VERY hard to sell a house with something like that going on next door.
Also note that this isn't a slippery slope to The Man coming after our hobby cars that we occasionally work on in the driveway (unless, of course, all your hobby cars are in pieces and stored scattered throughout your yard).
Very well said. I have three collector cars and I live in a subdivision. I am VERY sensitive to the visuals and sounds around my neighbors. No car is ever left out, all are garaged. I don’t start grinding and running an air compressor after normal hours.
I’ve always felt there is a fine line between an antique car collector and a hording hillbilly.
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Yes it is very common, especially the heavy ‘70’s coupes. Not really a bad job, check out the many good videos on YouTube.
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Sadly, as I see the content slide towards light modifications, or mutilations as I see them, it’s clear to me they have lost their target audience. Unless I see a radical departure, I’m out.
Does it really need to be explained that disc brakes, halogen lights, radial tires, breaker-less ignition and LED’s are superior over the original?
Seeing the painted hideous blue inside rear view mirror on the custom bodied Studebaker on the cover made me sick. So…….bye-bye
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19 hours ago, 19tom40 said:
John,
I will assume that your battery is fully charged and is in good condition and that you have cleaned the battery cables and posts.
Connect your volt meter COM lead to the NEG battery post and the + lead to the starter terminal. Crank the engine with the ignition OFF. The meter should read 0.3Volts or less while cranking the engine. If the reading is higher, you have excess resistance in the circuit.
If the reading is higher than 0.3V, move the + lead of the meter back to the starter cable side of the solenoid and repeat the test. The meter should read 0.2V or less. If it does, replace the cable to the starter. If the reading is higher, move the + lead to the battery side of the solenoid and repeat the test. The meter should read 0.1 V or less. If it does, replace the solenoid. If it is higher, replace the cable from the battery.
Now that you have the battery side of the circuit in good condition, you need to check the ground circuit. Connect the + lead of the meter to the POS terminal of the battery and the COM lead to a mounting bolt of the starter. Crank the engine and read the meter. It should read 0.1V or less. A higher reading means excess resistance in the grounding circuit. Move the COM lead to the point where the grounding strap is connected to the engine and repeat the test. If the reading is now 0.1V or less the starter is not grounded to the engine correctly. Remove the starter and clean the mounting surface of the starter and the oil pan and repeat the test. If the reading is still high, replace the grounding strap.
Tom, thanks for the fantastic reply! Last night I removed the all the connections starting at the starter relay and after reassembly the engine turns over much faster. I’ve yet to try it when hot, but I suspect that was my trouble. I’m going to print up your answer for future reference.
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10 hours ago, billorn said:
How big are your cables? Did you add a ground from starter to frame or battery ground?
My heavy duty braided ground strap runs from the starter bolt to the frame and then on to the battery. Thanks for all the replies.
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10 hours ago, billorn said:
How big are your cables? Did you add a ground from starter to frame or battery ground?
Yes, they are heavy duty 6-volt pristine cables
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My dear ‘48 V12 had a hard starting problem when the engine was hot. The issue was that the engine turns over far too slowly. Because I have a new battery and good clean tight cables, I figured the starter must need to be rebuilt. So I did that and now the engine turns over even slower than before the rebuild! Any ideas on where to go from here? Thanks!
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West, I changed mine 1948 hoses a few months ago and I removed the radiator bolts that secured it to the body and frame of the car.
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On 12/25/2017 at 7:49 AM, TNDoug said:
I finally figured out how to remove the door panel. There was a small roll pin behind trim plate for the vent window. Pushed it out and used reverse opening pliers to remove the push button. The spring was fine. There's been quite a few hands on this car in the past. The previous mechanic wired the switches wrong. A little adjustment on the window track and it works great.
I know your posting was from 4 years ago, but its exactly what I was looking for today! Thanks!
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On 6/2/2021 at 4:52 PM, 8E45E said:
Except it states, 'KAA Black Knit Vinyl Bench Seat'
Craig
Yes, it’s a woven vinyl, what I should have said is it was not the typical solid vinyl.
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The trim variation is because it has a rarely ordered cloth seat instead of the vinyl
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On 5/27/2021 at 6:37 AM, 8E45E said:
Are you able to post a scan of the Marti report? I'd like to see what it has for options.
Craig
Sorry for the long delay. Here is the Marti Report. I’m happy to write this car has virtually no options............and that’s why everything works!
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19 hours ago, GregLaR said:
Great looking car John.
Love that color with the woodgrain.
Thank you, it’s also my favorite 1969 Ford color.
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1 hour ago, 8E45E said:
Is the Quality Car Care warranty booklet still with the car?
Keep in mind, Ford offered a 5 year/50,000 mile warranty in 1969, and it might show a service/warranty check until 1974 if it didn't rack up the miles beforehand.
Craig
I searched every inch of this car and there is zero paperwork anywhere. I even went thru some of the name on a child’s homework and still came up empty. Thanks for the thought
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1 hour ago, Walt G said:
If there is a local newspaper in the town the dealership was in, place and ad asking for anyone who worked for the dealership that can help to contact you. Or send the editor a photo of your car and perhaps they may want to do a story on it and your quest to find its history.
Walt, that is a GREAT idea! I’m doing that! Thank you.
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ICE cars burn up every day, just never makes the news.
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39 minutes ago, 8E45E said:
First thing its to get the 'Elite Edition' Marti Report for your vehicle. It will state the Ford dealer where it was sold new. Then, if that dealer is still around, perhaps they can be a source.
Craig
Thanks for the response. Yes, I have that report. The dealer is gone and the trail went “cold”.
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I’m looking to find out the history of my Blue ‘69 Country Squire. Is there anyone out there from the Portland OR area who might be just have any familiarity with this wagon? It must have been owned by a family since under the back seat were a number of kids toys and homework questions. The car went through an auction about 3 years ago in Portland. Any and all leads would be very much appreciated.
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Me with my ‘48 Continental Cabriolet taken just yesterday!
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On 3/13/2021 at 12:49 PM, gdcont said:
if you look in the Lincoln Chassis Parts Catalog on page 311 it listed as 5EH 18293 Kit automatic windshield washer '47 &'48.
Hope that helps. George.
I did not know that George, thank you!
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I just listen to podcasts! That way I’m entertained, and learn something.
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My belief is that these forums are so fragmented that it isolates them and does a disservice. Is it really necessary to separate Zephyrs from Model K’s? How many people in the whole world are we talking about?
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23 hours ago, Str8-8-Dave said:
If we are talking about stuff you can find on the tube I really like Restoration Garage on Motor Trend TV. David Grainger is amazing, very car and restoration savvy, interesting to listen to and covers anything from putting some new trim in a Model A to ground up replication of a 1935 Bugatti Aerolithe. He owns a real world restoration shop called The Guild of Automotive Restorers in Bradford, Ontario Canada. He also is a farmer, has connections all over Europe, repairs antique watches and collects antique tractors and aircraft. You can check out his day job on his website here...
https://www.guildclassiccars.com/1935-bugatti-aerolithe.php
Agreed, an excellent informative, yet entertaining show.
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Thanks guys, my electric guy has it working, although he was not sure what it was. He took it apart, put it back together and now it’s fine..........weird but I’m happy it’s working!
Safe, yet effective car cover when towing?
in General Discussion
Posted
Hi all, I’m very familiar with all the reasons why a car cover should not be used with an open trailer while towing.
Yet, I can believe someone cannot come up with a cover that can be secured so it will not rub the paint off the car, or worse yet, blow off the car. After all the boat industry has used the shrink wrap system for decades. Why I’m asking for possible solutions is that I recently towed my “sealed” 1949 Lincoln convertible in the rain and the interior and trunk were just soaked. An enclosed trailer is out of the question. Any ideas???