John_Mc
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Posts posted by John_Mc
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12 minutes ago, Tinindian said:
The switch should go in the negative cable between the battery and the starter.
Thank you, that was I was thinking but on a negative ground system, I’ve been warned to never run the + cable through a battery disconnect switch, ONLY the negative cable.
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Well I received the disconnect switch this afternoon and I’m very impressed with the weight and quality of the thing. So here’s a question that I should know the answer to, but I’d like some input.
My ‘48 Lincoln Continental 6 volt car has a braided positive ground. The body and engine are grounded with this wire. The round negative cable runs from the battery’s negative pole, then to the starter solenoid and then to the starter. Which cable should be routed through the disconnect switch?
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On 9/12/2020 at 10:15 AM, Matt Harwood said:
They're commonly available, although in a 6V system you want one with a LOT of current capacity. I use this one on my 6V cars:
300 amps continuous and 1000 amps intermittent (like starting). Don't worry about the voltage, the switch only cares about current. There are cheaper ones but they have ratings from 50-125 amps, which is inadequate for a 6V system. The heavy-duty switch is more expensive (about $50) but will not be the bottleneck on your electrical system and you won't wonder why your car won't start when it's hot. It also won't melt if you have to crank it for a while. Always spend the money to get the good stuff and you'll be happier with your old car every day.
I ordered the unit above tonight, thanks!!
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8 hours ago, DonMicheletti said:
I modified one of those switches using a choke cable to the dash. Not too hard to do and I love it.
Just a bit of bracketry.
The switch is mounted at the starter
Hey that’s clever.
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Thanks Matt, yes those are everywhere, but I want a remote disconnect. Don’t want to do any cutting.
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Can anyone suggest where to go for one of these?? Everything I see is for 12 volt, which would probably work, but I’m concerned about amperage.
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18 minutes ago, abelincoln said:
If all the previous checks out, I've had similar problem with worn brass synchro gears leading to falling our of 2nd gear.
Best of luck, Abe
Oh boy! Sure hope I don’t have to go there! 🤨
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On 9/1/2020 at 1:22 AM, Chacheska said:
Does anyone know of a hobbyist in the Minneapolis area that would transport a small car to western NY for me?
Many thanks.
Actually, I spoke with Ed tonight, and he might have to go to northern MN the first week in October and he is planning a trip to CT shortly thereafter. Ed is a great guy and why not give him a call to discuss. Ed McCord at 847-830-7193.
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18 hours ago, Chacheska said:
My apologies for not checking back sooner.
Hola, Minnie Mouse. Didn't see you at Hershey last year.
I don't believe I can get it to Milwaukee. The owner isn't willing to do that for me, but thanks for the thoughtful reply and suggestion. If, by some flukey chance that could happen, how do I get a hold of your friend, John?
Sure, Ed at 847-830-7193
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As usual, great info my friend. Tonight I ordered all new grommets and bushings. They were pretty loose and After replacing those, I’ll follow your suggestions. Hope all are healthy by you!
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Guys, need some help. I’m having a rough time engaging second gear and keeping it in second gear. Unless I hold the shift lever up, it will simply fall out of gear! Obviously I have a linkage problem here, anyone know the first place to start?
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Thanks, I’ve had both and while the 400:is a fine engine - the 460 is the one to have
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On 9/3/2020 at 8:49 PM, MADEBYMANMADE said:
Greetings,
I reproduced a carburetor heat control choke plate in 3D for a 1927 Buick. The object will be 3D printed. 3D printing and designing is my hobby for more than 6 years now.
I'm able to reproduce various missing or broken parts. It always helps if there is an example part which can be measured by caliper to be copied into 3D.
Personally I like to copy by caliper and ruler. For smaller parts I can use a 3D scanner.
Reproduction can also be achieved from a minimum of 3 photo's (top view, front view, side view,) but the more views the better plus general size of object i.e. HxWxDepth.
Sometimes reverse engineering can produce parts too
Let me know if I can be of any help.
Regards, Matt
Matt, great info and while I might come to you in a bit, I have come across a parts car that looks like it has just what the doctor ordered.
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1 hour ago, Trulyvintage said:
No one is going to save you from yourself if you are expecting to get something for next to nothing.
No One Ever Talks About Greed.
The anticipation and expectation of getting a “ good deal “ at less than fair value.
You Can’t Have A Con Without A Mark.
Don’ Be A Mark.
Jim
Greed had nothing to do with it; did I mention anything about getting a great deal? Did I mention money at all?
He claimed he had rare Ford parts - plain and simple.
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2 hours ago, broker-len said:
Sorry for your lose ---$ 700.00 is allot of money THE FIRST TIME !!---Do you think you should have learned from the first mistake ??---do you think you should have been more careful ??---do you think you should have demanded to see pictures as a prerequisite for sending money a second time-? Why not contact a local car club and ask some one to do you a favor and go look at the parts ?--I do not know how bad you needed the parts or how rare they were but your car hobby is getting expensive
Hindsight is always 20/20.
My point of the post was to warn others. Would I do it again? What do you think?
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All, after posting an ad seeking parts for my newly purchased Country Squire station, I received this email that LOOKED like it was taken from this forum. The seller would not call me and when I asked for a picture of the part, he sent a picture of a beautiful car that he was parting out because a Canadian member wanted the engine. So if you get a response from someone on the forum, it might not be! Check them out! I almost fell for this one.
Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums Hi John_Mc,
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6 hours ago, MMRestoration said:
We just got a call from this guy with the same number, same story wanting to sell us some parts for a 35 Chevy Suburban we are building. He got us a few years ago on some early 28 Model A headlights. We sent him a bank wire transfer for the parts. He sounds like he knows his parts. Not today. He has a distinctive voice, talks fast. Said his dad just died of covid. Said his dad bought 4 1935 Suburbans new for taxi cabs in 1935. Hmmmm. Well if his dad was 20 in 1935 when he bought them that would make him die of covid at 105 years old! LOLOLOLOL!!!
Seriously though. This guy needs shut down and prosecuted.
Yep, must be the same scum bag that called me. He talks very quickly and is VERY convincing, make no mistake about it. He also knows something about cars, since I asked him some question and he knew the answers. When he scammed me last year, he was for sure living in or near Reno Nevada. He had taken the name of Edwin Fenner. I’d love to see this crook behind bars
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Thanks guys, I've had calls but no offers as of yet. I can't believe I'm going to let her go, but I need to do so.
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On 8/31/2020 at 10:26 PM, Rusty_OToole said:
Go ahead and buy the car. The part will turn up if you look. If it doesn't, take the car to a few shows, I guarantee someone will come along who has one or knows someone who has.
Rusty, I bought the car this morning!
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Thank you, I think I'm well priced for today's market, but its worth what someone will pay, right?? Its really a beautiful car.
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Just did, thanks!
Like to find a remote battery kill switch for my 6 volt ‘48 Lincoln
in General Discussion
Posted
Thanks Joe, positive it will be.