John_Mc
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Posts posted by John_Mc
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Looks like I might have to have my OD solenoid repaired. I see there is a place in CA. Any others out there?
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On 3/26/2021 at 3:13 PM, Ray500 said:
Give Chris a call or email at Boos Harell Lincoln parts in Ohio. Other vendors might have one, I think it's not easily to repair with the wear on the collar and shaft. Also Merv Atkins out in Pomona California has a wrecking yard of old Lincolns, he might have a usable shifter to replace yours. He's on the Lincoln Zephyr Owner's Club website for contact information. A machine shop could shim the unit to tighten up the play if you can't find a usable one. I doubt there are any NOS ones after some 80 years, and most off of other vehicles will probably be worn too. Can't hurt to check with a reliable machine shop as to the repairs of your unit. The other issue is the wear on the steering shaft that is a bear to remove to do a better fit with the shifter unit. Good luck!
Thanks Ray, I ordered a good used one from Chris on Friday along with Tywin good used arms.
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Absolutely stunning!!
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Well, I took it off and now I need to know how to rebuild it. Also, seems like the bracket is too loose on the shaft. Outside of taking it to a machine shop, are parr’s available for these? Thanks to anyone who responds.
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Hi all, I need to remove and rebuild the gear shifter collar on my ‘48 Continental. Any tips or shortcuts? I know this is a big job, but I’ve go to do it. Do I have to remove the entire steering column? Sure hope not
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On 3/20/2021 at 3:24 PM, DSpringer said:
John, I'm considering this for my '41 Zephyr if I can find the parts. Do you need to enlarge the tunnel to get it to fit? Seems like a fairly major undertaking.
Dave
Dave, not sure of the ‘41 but once the seat and carpet are removed, two panels can be removed exposing the entire transmission. No it’s not a fun job but remember the spring and axle must be removed and pushed back about 8” to allow clearance to pull back and remove the trans, good luck.
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1 hour ago, 19tom40 said:
These are photos that I found of a car for sale with the windshield washer. I don't know if it is correct.
Thanks Tom, don’t know either but if I can find an original instructions, it should tell me. Yea, crazy to spend so much time on this, but if it’s on my car, I’d like it to work.
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Tom and all, I found what I think is the switch that hangs under the dash. If it is, I’d like to get this option to work. Tom, I’d like to get those parts from you, if still available. Also, anyone have instructions showing where to mount what?
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On 3/6/2021 at 12:22 PM, Owls head said:
Hi supercargirl,
I'm interrested in what you said because I just posted a topic yesterday about my research of the history of my car, a 67 convertible Mustang sold in Woodbridge NJ in Dec 66 and "rediscovered" in France in the 90's rusting in a barn. Inbetween I know nothink. Do you think you could advice me or do a research for me about the "american history" of my car ? Here attached postcards of the Ford dealership where the car was first sold. That's my starting point for know !
You just gotta love the Cobra on the showroom floor!
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3 hours ago, 19tom40 said:
John, I cannot find any information on a kit for the Lincoln, but Mercury did offer the kit. It was the Trico vacuum operated pump in a jar under the hood. The kit included a control that mounted under the dash. Your owner's manual may have some information on the system, if it was an approved accessory.
The foot pedal system came out later, I want to say with the 1955 models as I have never seen one on an earlier model Ford product. By then the Lincoln system was electric.
If you have the dash control and the squirters, I have a rebuildable pump, jar and mounting bracket that I can let you have for a reasonable sum.
Tom,
I seem to recall that I had a dash switch amongst the several boxes of parts that came with my ‘48. Thanks for the generous offer, being that my car definitely has the cowl mounted squirters, my car must have had this rare accessory when new, so YES I’d be interested in picking up what you have. Let me see what I can come up with in my stash of parts. Pretty amazing that such an advanced option was available 75 years ago!
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Anyone have any printed material on the windshield washer systems on the 46-48 Lincolns? I assume there had to be a foot pedal and a reservoir somewhere. Any diagrams would be of great help....lastly, was this a Ford offered option?
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11 hours ago, 19tom40 said:
Looking good, John.
Thanks Tom..........and I’m finally getting first shot this Tuesday!
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7 hours ago, Pfeil said:
This is a easy one. Let the $10.00 one time only registration plate stand, require insurance on anything on public road.
The concern;
law enforcement communicated to legislators that they had been “were running into issues where they were picking these people up using these cars as every day drivers.”
The answer;
Make the people that are abusing the system pay for all the fees the state would have collected if a yearly fee would have been imposed on current antique/collector owners.
The above would soon put a end to the abuse, now if the state doesn't want to do the above you would assume the state is imposing this yearly fee because they want the money.
Spot on!! We don’t need any more laws, we need more enforcement!
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19 minutes ago, 19tom40 said:
I just got my second shot Wednesday. It's too bad that you don't live in Lake county, they have a hot line to help people 65 and older find a place for a shot. Your best bet is the United Center mega shot site. Watch for a phone number to sign up.
Other than that, get up and get online early in the morning to look for shots in your county.
Great tips, will do
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Yep, that would be great...............IF I EVER get my Covid shot! 😞
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Hi Tom, I used rubber shims and they seemed to work just fine. Here are some pictures, and thanks again for the advice and insights. Next step - installing the trans once properly painted.
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10 hours ago, 19tom40 said:
John: The shims that I wrote about are the same wedges that the shop manual calls for. They need to be about 1/4" to 1/2" thick and are used to relieve the pressure on the disc as you install the pressure plate. Your transmission guy may not use them, but several people that had clutch chatter on their Fords used them on the replacement pressure plate and found that the clutch chatter was gone.
The way that I install them is to place the pressure plate on a flat surface, secure it so it won't slip around and then apply force to one finger and slip the wedge in place between the finger and the cover. It takes about 100lbs of force to get enough space to put the wedge in. You might need a helper for the third hand. An arbor press comes in handy when doing it.
I alternate tightening the bolts to make sure that the pressure plate does not warp. I have not used used a thread locker on the pressure plate bolts. The lock washers and 25 ft lbs torque seem to be sufficient to hold them in place. I cannot think of a reason to say that a thread locker should not be used, so if it makes you feel better to use the temporary type, go ahead.
Tom, excellent as always. Thanks!
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29 minutes ago, abelincoln said:
John:
Carefully remove the solenoid, remove bolts and turn to pull out. Reinstall solenoid after trans is in place. I use a couple of rods screwed into side mounting holes on the engine block to guide the trans in place lining up the input with the clutch disk, sometimes have to rotate in gear a bit to mesh. If clutch has been out, need to center disk with an old transmission input shaft or make a dowel. You might also need to raise the rear of the engine a bit to make everything line up. It is easier to install motor mount with trans out of car. Funny, I'm about to do the same thing with rehabbed transmission.
Abe
Thanks Abe, I’ve got a disc centering tool and I will for sure put some threaded rods intro the bell housing to act as dowels.
Also, yes I have a new clutch disc. Since I had just a tiny amount of shimmy before removing the trans, I’ve left the flywheel alone except for mailing it hospital clean and roughing it up a bit.
My question above to Tom was how and where to place shims on the pressure plate arms. After many years of playing with these cars, I’ve never used shims when installing a clutch and I really want to do this right. Thanks for the input.
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6 hours ago, 19tom40 said:
Make sure that you place shims under the release arms on the pressure plate before you start to install it. You do not want any pressure on the clutch disc until the pressure plate is secure. Failure to do this can warp the pressure plate. Then remove the shims followed by the alignment shaft.
If you removed the flywheel, make sure that you have the correct thin head bolts to re-install it. Incorrect bolts may cause a lot of noise when you start the engine and drive the car. Tighten the bolts to 65 - 70 FtLbs and safety wire them. Check for run out of less than .005". If it is more than that, remove the flywheel and rotate 180 degrees and recheck. I always mark the end of the crankshaft and the flywheel to make sure that I put them back the same way that I removed them.
Hi Tom, what type or thickness should I use underneath the release arms? Not sure where they are used. The 1948 shop manual does call for “wedges” under the arms, but I spoke to my trans rebuild and he said he’s never used them, just torque up the bolts evenly around the flywheel. Also Tom, should I use a thread locker? Thanks in advance, sure don’t want to do this twice and how’s the time for any corrections.
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Well, I have my overdrive transmission back from rebuilding and it’s time for reinstalling the thing. I took it out so I’m pretty familiar with how it’s supposed to go, but any tips? For instance, the rebuilder told me to put it in gear prior to mating it to the flywheel.
I have a new throw out bearing and hub and a new clutch face. Any tips will be viewed as helpful.
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On 2/11/2021 at 11:42 AM, abelincoln said:
Looks wonderful John! Did you get the brightwork re-chromed or were you lucky to have a good set?
Abe
Abe, I was fortunate as my dash chrome just needed lots of polishing and red painting detail. And that fine with me as I throughly relish the concept of detailing.
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Yes Tom, it does stay warm, but I’m sure I will pay dearly for the heat when the gas bill comes! Of course, my heater is ceiling hung so when you get down to the floor, the temperature drops significantly. I decided to change the master cylinder and its pretty cold 1’ off the floor;
Take care Tom, stay healthy.
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After months of work, the dash is back in the car and the radio, vacuum antenna, hydraulic windows, windshield wipers, tun signals, defrost system, radiators, heater cores, clock, horn and dash gauges are all in working order. I pick my rebuilt transmission this coming Wednesday!!!!
The feelings of accomplishment are terrefic!
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Suggestions on overdrive solenoid rebuilders?
in V12 Lincolns Only
Posted
Hi, yes it’s faulty. I’ve checked the voltage from the relay. Over 30 mph, the OD light on the dash even illuminates. Bench testing with over 6 volts and there is still no movement. I dropped it off at a high quality auto electric shop today so I’ll know something soon. Thank you for responding.