TexRiv_63
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Posts posted by TexRiv_63
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17 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:
Are we sure it's not just shiny because it's wet?
That old trick? Totally correct if you look at all the pictures.
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18 hours ago, 95Cardinal said:
I believe the top (first) set are 1947 Lincoln.
The second set is for 1947-48 Mercury.
Thanks, I will check it out!
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Where do I even start? Sellers like this guy are why many saveable cars are never saved.
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Need some ID help with two dash gauge panels. They are very similar but not identical. First one has all four gauges, temp, oil, amps and fuel arranged left to right with rear-printed plastic lenses crimped in place. Second one same size and shape but gauges are fuel, oil, amps and temp going left to right, amp gauge is missing. No plastic lenses or crimps to hold them. The housings of both are stamped KS which I assume is King-Seely. The first one has "KS DISTOMETER" and patent numbers on the fiber backing plates, the second one has the Ford script logo stamped on one backing plate and nothing else. Would love to know the years used and models applicable, TIA for any help.
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I owned a 78 with the same exterior colors but a tan interior.
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Very cool driver wagon. I agree the price seems too high for the condition but with wagons we might be surprised.
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I worked on this last night. Ground Advantage combines Retail Ground, First Class Package, and Parcel Select Ground into one category and - Surprise! - the prices went up. As a business Ebay user, I went in and created a new Business Policy with the new classification, then had to manually correct each affected listing to substitute the new policy. I could not do this with listings already having active bids so I will have to wait until those end to delete the remaining old First Class Business Policies. All in all not too difficult. I will follow up again after printing shipping labels.
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18 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:
I also have the factory gauge (which is just a red liquid tube with no real markings) connected to one of the manifolds that connect the water pump output to the cylinder blocks. It's more or less getting water directly from the water pump, so it should be a little cooler. The gauge reads about 3/4 to the top almost all the time, except when it's cold, so I don't place a lot of faith in it. I just didn't want a dead gauge in the dash.
Does the factory gauge ever show it as borderline overheating? I bet it may be more accurate than you think.
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I knew this was coming but have not pinned down the cost changes yet. I'm sure it will all cost more like everything else. If you are a frequent or business seller you should create or correct your Business Policies to reflect the changes. I have some items ending on Friday, I wonder what will happen at label printing time? I'll come back after I figure it out.
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1964 Buick Riviera tilt steering column assembly. Fair to good used condition, tilt works, turn signal cable moves, aluminum trim is nice. $195.00 or best offer, ship or local pickup, see listing for full description and more photos:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?item=175782206188&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2562&_ssn=drjrjunk
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1964 Buick Riviera tilt steering column assembly. Fair to good used condition, tilt works, turn signal cable moves, aluminum trim is nice. $195.00 or best offer, ship or local pickup, see listing for full description and more photos:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?item=175782206188&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2562&_ssn=drjrjunk
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That looks really nice, is he saying it is original paint? Would be nice to see underhood and chassis photos, also know what exactly had been done mechanically.
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I would not do it today but back when I lived in Illinois I bought and flipped or parted MANY cars. I always drove them home because I did not have the money to do anything else. The only exception was a '70 Eldorado that had a locked up front wheel. I did have some adventures as a lot of these cars were real junkers but I always had someone in a backup vehicle and - I was young.
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Pretty car but that price seems awfully high for a low content, no A/C, 77,000 mile 4-door.
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I agree with Matt on this. I have owned a lot of cars and I have NEVER bought one that did not have some kind of problem that needed correcting before driving was truly safe. When I bought my 63 Olds Starfire the seller said it was in such good shape he would deliver it to me from Colorado to Texas for the cost of a return ticket. He did so and did make it but miraculously. After checking it out it had oil leaks that coated the entire bottom of the car and dripped off the rear bumper, one of the rear tires had a sidewall cut down to the cord from a misplaced exhaust bracket, the brakes needed pumping up each time you wanted to stop, and the front suspension bushings were so badly worn that it made a loud clunk each time you touched the brakes.
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If stock you should not have carpet in your trunk but rather a patterned material.
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Almost seems too good to be true.
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When car makers switched from gauges to "idiot lights" for monitoring temperature, oil pressure and charging many complained but most drivers did not. Those drivers probably did not pay attention to the previous gauges anyway and the reality was that most cars survived temporary running hot or charging low. Even the factory gauges glossed over this using lines rather than actual numbers on the faces, as long as you stayed in the safe midrange you were ok. In reality the top end of that safe range was probably 200 to 210 degrees but if it didn't boil over and dropped once you passed the traffic jam no problem.
I've had more than one car with aftermarket gauges where I worried about the numbers but never actually had a boil over or zero oil pressure issue. Considering your lengthy history with this car you are naturally hypersensitive to potential problems but your recent drive experiences seem to show normal break-in conditions and a nice driving car. Keep taking it slow and expand your range, and maybe close the glovebox for awhile.
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Another example of how NOT to do an ad. Even with the limited terrible photos I would walk away.
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Nice car but if the interior is that bad concerned about the floors, trunk etc. Would need to see a lot more.
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If that was down the street from me I would buy it today.
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17 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:
Still a lot of jobs to do on the Lincoln and I like working alone after work, so I went out to the shop to chip away at my "to do" list.
First up was trying to find a solution to that insanely heavy and precariously balanced hood. It has already fallen twice and done serious damage to the headlights, and I couldn't even leave it open at a show for fear that a breath of wind or the brush of a sleeve would send it crashing into the headlights again. In short, it can't be left unattended for even a second and whenever I'm working on the engine, I have to assume it will fall on me (better me than the headlights).Don't know if this applies but I had a similar problem with the 34 Packard. The solution was replacing long-gone rubber hood bumpers which "grab" the cowl edge when the hood is raised and keep it from slipping and falling. I also replaced the missing hood straps which kept it from blowing open to the opposite side in a strong wind.
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USRadiator.com recent experience and discount(?) 1st gen
in Buick Riviera
Posted
I bought a high efficiency rad from U.S. Radiator in 2014 for my factory air 63 Starfire. It was an exact duplicate of the factory rad in every way except no Harrison stamp. Easy install worked great, used it for 6 years with no problems. That price is pretty crazy though!