oldiron

Need two heads for one cylinder Curved Dash Olds engines; one 1902 and one 1903. Will buy good usable originals or reproduction heads. e-mail Jerry at antqcarz@optonline.net or call (cell)201-259-3308 or post here as I will check often; thanks; oldiron

Want to buy two heads for one cylinder oldsmobile engines for 1902 and 1903. Will purchase good usable originals,or reproductions if anyone is making them. E-mail jerry at antqcarz@optonline.net or call (cell)201-259-3308 or answer this post as I will check it often. Thanx; oldiron

Richard; sounds like you have a "rim wind"/"rim set" clock. A great accessory. Try this; turn the rim while holding the clock body, and you will be winding it. Next, while holding the body pull the rim away from it, once the rim moves out about a quarter of an inch it will be engaged to set the time. Finally, look at the clock close, as I believe you might find that it is nickel plated and not stainless.None-the-less you have a great piece of automobiliana which should be a great accessory for the teens and twenties. Enjoy it. Regards; oldiron

Ahhhh. The L.I.O.C.C., a favorite of Austin Clarke's, and of many others, and.... the oldest car club on Long Island. A group that used to go to the famous JOHN DUCK'S for lunch after an "iron range" outing at the L.I.Auto Museum, and tie on the feed bag. Yes Earl Filter, (Warren Kraft),is a member. That brass car plaque is quite a piece of history, and in fact there are still some in circulation, (this writer owns two of them.). Never thought them to have more than intrinsic value when they were new, but that was over forty years ago. Regards; oldiron

Steven; Upon rereading your explanation, I believe the following situation could be possible; condsider this. If the engine has been sitting for a long time, it is dry, and very, very stiff.Your starter is not turning it, and you cannot turn it by the crank. That's because you don't have enough leverage, but you are creating enough leverage with the screw driver as your prybar. What you need to do is put some marvel mystry oil, or a very light oil in all cylinders and let it soak in over a couple of days. Each day, with the car in gear, rock it back and forth gently, or turn it over a few times with the screw driver. This will slowly work the oil in and allow all parts to get lubricated enough to the point where the crank will be enough to turn over the engine. Do this with spark plugs out so as not to have to fight compression. I did this with an old Pierce years ago that sat for 15 years after being rebuilt. The engine was dry and tight. Had to stand on the crank to turn it over. Put the marvel mystery oil in, let it sit with turning effort from time to time, and it eventually turned freely. Good luck and regards; oldiron

Robert 23; your windshield wiper appears to be a generic wiper of the teens and twenties,(the nickled ball handle is usually the give-away for the time-frame. Earlier, it might have been brass.). An accessory for any car; just drill a hole thru the top of the windshield frame and assemble the unit thru that hole. Once in place, it is hand operated.Regards; oldiron

FLM....Ryan lites were used for many applications, including but not limited to some Stutz and Franklin models. But then Ryan was also used on some commercial vehicles as well. Your best way of identifying the actual vehicles that the different model numbers were used on would be to have a manufacturers catalogue listing said models. Regards; oldiron

Steven, I agree with following Dr. Watsons suggestions, but further, push the crank in thru front hole at bottom of radiator, and insure that the end of the crank itself interfaces with, and locks onto the crankshaft or pulley's flange,(the pully flange in reality acting as the end of crankshaft). At this point if you pull up on the crank the engine should turn over, unless the crank itself is binding. This you must determine. If it is binding, find out why and eliminate the cause. The crank by itself should turn freely. Also, try to see that the front end of the crankshaft is able to accept the crank"s end properly. It could be that if interference exists, this could also be part of your problem. Regards; Oldiron

Russel; thanks for the response, but Kellogs don't seem to be the answer as what would be the crankcase on the Kellogs, is much different than that of what I have. I am trying to research a name, but the closest I can come is a couple of initials in the casting. I will endeavor to post a couple of photos so you can see what I mean. Again, Thanyou...

Looks to be a Trippe light from '30's. In fact a junior Trippe at that. What say guys

Need air compressor for 1913 38C. It is an inline four cylinder unit that mounts under floor boards and is driven off the transmission via an in-out clutch. email antqcarz@optonline.net or call Jerry 201-259-3308

F.S. series 36 Head Gaskets. There are three. One new old stock, one used but re-usable, one new from Olsons. Call Jerry @ 201-259-3308, or email antqcarz@optonline.net Regards; Oldiron

Boyz; Wish I could help. I don't have any parts at all, chassis or otherwise. Regards, Oldiron

Wtb a 4 cylinder air compressor for 1913 Pierce Arrow 38C. Working or not.

Want to buy two cylinder Oldsmobile engine circa '03, '04, '05 reply here or reply to antqcarz@optonline.com or call (201)-259-3308

Hello Chris; I just cant resist asking you this; Do you know how to get this car moving? you whipit.... LOL. Anyway, It looks like a great car, you'll have a lot of fun with it; Good luck; OLDIRON

Hey Steve, your cutlass is certainly a phaeton in that regard. By the way, way back when that cutlass was new, I drove one non-stop from Pheonix Arizona to Tuscon, then all the way to El Paso, so that I could make 'muster' one morning without being late late. Yes,it does spew fire..........enjoy it while you can,Regards, Oldiron

I have a very nice pair of Bosch & Lomb tapered, and fluted lenses marked 9 & 7/8. I had a series 36 which used the B & L lenses. These were left after the car was sold. call Jerry (cell) 201-259-3308 or e-mail antqcarz@optonline.net

Don't have the lugs you need, but, I do have a real nice pair of L model rear fenders frommid 20's if you have the need. Jerry; (cell) 201-259-3308 or antqcarz@optonline.net

Battery size, a good discussion for the evening when it's say 10 degrees outside, and you really do have to start your car. Naturally the drag is greatly increased as the oil is now as thick as honey from the hive. Rest assured, a time tested formula of 2 amp hours of draw per cubic inch of displacement has always worked well for me. Per example, on a dual valve Pierce Arrow "T" head engine of 1927, with appx 400 cubic inches, the battery should be rated at least 800 ampere hours of draw. With this size 'EXIDE' battery, I've never been dissappointed. All the other fancy name batteries were not worth wasting my time with.

Certainly not Marmon '27 or earlier. Not pierce arrow either

Well Gentlemen, if we are going to look to the origins of "phaeton" then let's be correct about it. The word Phaeton, a noun, is of French origin. The word phaethon,or rather name Phaethon, also a noun, is from both Roman and Greek mythology. He is the son of Helios, the sun god, who used his fathers chariot......yada, yada, yada. you get the point. So.....the phaeton then is the one that carries people atop a fire spewing dragon.

Gentlemen; to find the clear meaning of, and the distinction between the terms "phaeton" and "touring", one needs to put themselves into the realm of the "Flat Earth" society, and start where the terms started. That starting point would be with the horse and carriage, where the terms were originally applied to many genre of horse pulled carts, wagons, phaetons, and brakes. Thence forward in evolution to the horseless carriage era, where builders and purveyors of fine bodies excelled not only in the art of creating magnificent coaches,but also in the creation of eloquent names and definitions and the embodiment thereof.And, then onto the "roaring" twenties and thirties where function had to fit form, and where admen learned their sophist trade while spewing the misused but sophisticated sounds of the French word, Phaeton against the more plebian word, Touring. Now fellas, I leave the hi-tech discussion to you.

Wanted; Delco cutout relay for 1913 Cadillac, I do have the voltage regulator...mounts inside battery box on running board. Also interested in a generic replacement for the cutout relay. This cutout relay consists of fine and coarse windings that increase magnetic pull and close points , to complete circuit, thus allowing battery to be charge. Contact Jerry(cell)201-259-3308 or e-mail antqcarz@optonline.com

Series 36 Pierce Arrow Head Gaskets.(one new/shop warn $100; one used/reusable $100; one new Olsen Repro $100),pair Lincoln L model rear fenders/excellant no rust $250, '13-'14 Ford speedo $100, Matched pair fluted Bosch & Lomb headlite lenses 9 & 7/8 $150, Trico "Vision-all" windshield mount full sweep wiper $100, hand brake lever for high quality car $100, Dykes 1911 copyright good condition $100, Brass robe rail 26 inches wide real nice $150, call 201-259-3308 .....or email antqcarz@optonline.net