oldiron

Todd; your car appears to be an early '26 Ford Tudor Sedan as it has no headlight bar..I'm not sure of the month, but a headlight bar was added just prior to mid year of '26 if I remember correctly. regards; Jerry Janson

Steve; google for "cork" or cork suppliers. There you will find a couple of mailorder suppliers with cork stock ranging in thickness from 1/8 inch, up to three or four inches in thickness. Some of the cork material listed by these suppliers is also in block form such as 2x3x5. Good luck; regards; jerry janson

Hey Oldwizzer; check with mid 1920's era Pierce owners. I restorded a 1927 Series 36 Pierce many years ago. It had a compressor mounted on the driver side of the transmission.The tower that you see in the picture was accessible through the floorboard. By turning the shaft in the tower with a special wrench, the compressor gear would engage the idler gear in the transmission, thus operating the compressor. regards; jerry janson

Hey MilSpec; great photo. Tough I.D.. Some clues however indicate it's older than 1914, probably around '11; 1. rear spring hangers 2. rims appear to be non-demountable 3. smooth wide flywheel..... regards; Jerry Janson

Jake; much of what you have posted is true. But, then your only talking about the three P's as being the greatest cars of their respective era's. I think as others weigh in, you'll find many different opinions, and you will find that there arguments are most persuasive. I will answer you as follows; 1.) I strongly disagree that in it's earliest years, that Packard was a poor third as rated against both Peerless and Pierce. With research, many racing accolades can be found, bestowed on all three marques. Many technological 'firsts' in auto history can be attributed to all three P's as well. But again, in order to compare, we must first define the parameters that will allow comparison, not just quote others who might or might not have done their homework. In any case, I don't believe the term "the three P's' has a lot of significance to it, in that there were other cars of equal or perhaps even greater stature than these;i.e. Simplex, Stearns,Alco, etc. etc.. regards Jerry Janson

Grandpa; you have posted a great photo of an early electric car. It appears to be an early "flat front" Baker Electric of "07 or '08 vintage. Note the chain drive. This feature predates '10 when shaft drive was used. regards; jerry janson

Dana; you are very correct in deciding not to blast, it would be a nightmare. Scraping and hand sanding will work just fine. I've done many wheels this way with great satisfaction. regards; oldiron

I also had an "uncle Hugo". When people needed something from the store, they would ask him, "will you go and drive us in your Yugo, Hugo"? Oh well, I'm just trying to add some levity....... regards; old iron

Justin; I agree with all of the above comments they are great advice. I'll just add one more thought; have the brake linings been arced? This will remove some material from the linings in order to match the inside circumference of the brake drum. regards; jerry janson

I believe the photo is that of a NATIONAL; Regards; Jerry Janson

Jonny; it appears that the car pictured is a Baker Electric of circa '07 or '08.... some intersting notes; it is chain drive which would pre-date '09....(except for the curved front side windows, the construction appears to be very similar to the Baker"flat front"of '09 and '10.... There is a real nice original now sitting in the Garden City Antique Automobile Museum on Long Island. It's former home was the Henry Ford Museum. (The head-lites appear to be later additions.). Hope this helps; regards; oldiron

Hey RAH; Layden is very correct. Your model C-42 6 cyl lists Westinghouse starter frame 700, and gen 400. That is, only for mid-year 1917, according to Wells Auto Electrician Handbook. Now, your refering to 1916. 1916 lists only one six cylinder vehicle, and that would be a model "Six of Sixteen" with a Splitdorf starter generator. It's one of only a couple of Mitchell models using a starter generator. regards; Jerry J.

Scott; upon carefull study of the pix that you have included in your post, (and with what you claim as about 80% restored), it appears that you have an excellant starting point. Look, in considering that the running gear is rebuilt, the tires are new, and if the brakes are good condition, about all you need is the owners manual, and a tank of gas to get started. Really, literature can be found online at e-bay, and or from some of the reputable literature dealers that advertise in "Antique Automobile", and/or in "Hemmings Motor News". Also, a great place for seeking help would be the Horseless Carriage Club of America; i.e. to which you can find a link here. Before spending money, get to know your car. (Set it up and drive it according to the instructions you will find in the owners manual, and/or also purchase a "Dyke"s Automotive Handbook, which offers general information on how to set up and operate your magneto, adjust your carburetor, and adjust or repair any part on your car. It will also give you driving instructions. Good luck, and regards; Jerry

John; Of the exact cut-out that you need, I have no knowledge.Give me a week, and I can reproduce a copy of the schematic that I have in book form, of your Esterline circuit. But, that is only a schematic. Another Kissel owner could tell you perhaps the manufacturers name, so that you could start a search. On the other hand, a generic cut-out could also work if you can wire it in. I do have a period, single point cutout; i.e. which works with the same voltages and amperers normally generated at the slower R.P.M.'s that are described in Wells handbook. I am not sure of it's applications but I had tested it out for use on my '13 Cadillac prior to finding the original "two point contact" cut-out which I really needed. Regards; Jerry

John; from an original printing of "Wells Auto Electricians Handbook" comes the following information. ESTERLINE; (permanent Magnet Generator) Types; Type D, series B and series C Charge rate; series B, all lamps off, maximum output 10-12 amperes; series C, maximum output 12-15 amperes. Generator; two pole machine with permanent magnet fields in conjunction with field windings carried on core across arch of magnets and above armature. Two brushes on opposite sides of commutator; positive on right, negative on left. Series B has three field windings on the core; one a shunt coil, another a reversed series coil, and the third a load winding. series C has two field windings; a shunt coil and a reversed series coil.Series B has 4 wire terminals on the dynamo, series C has 2 terminals. Test Terminals; Ammeter between terminal 2 and wire removed on either machine. Voltmeter on series B between terminals 1 and 2; on series C between terminals 2 and 3. Field terminals; series B has shunt field between terminals 1 and 4, reversed series (Batt) field between terminals 1 and 3, load field winding between terminal 2 and positive (right hand) brush. Series C has shunt field between terminals 3 and 4, series field between terminal 2 and positive brush. Regulation; reversed series field windings oppose shunt and permanent magnet fields to limit output. On series B machine the output is increased by the load winding when the lamps are turned on. No adjustment provided. Cut out; Magnetic, carried on fuse panel. Closes at 375-400 R.P.M., 6.5-7.5 volts; opens with discharge of 0.0-1.5 amperes. Spring tension and armature gap adjusted by screws passing through contact arms and armature on top of unit. John, this book I am quoting also shows both above described "Esterline internal circuits"; series B and series C.... the cutouts, of a type that I am familiar with, are in all probability, external of the generator itself, and as I quoted the book earlier, it mentions the cutout being mounted on the fuse panel. Finally, the Ann Klien collection had a 4-40 Kissel, as I recentlyread,and it is for sale; claimed to be original. If you can locate it, it could verify many of the details which you seek. Regards; jerry "oldiron"

Lamars/Guys; I couldn't agree with you more. Next they'll take "AMERICA" out of "Antique Automobile Club of America" if we let them. Political correctness has gone just to far. We need to take back our country and our freedom of expression. Again, in realizing that this is an automotive forum, and not a politcal soap box, the rhetoric should be curbed somewhat,but, certainly, to close a thread that speaks of an event that has touched us all, borders on absurdity. A proud vet; oldiron

Jim; google earlycadillac@yahoogroups.com and you will find access to the Early Cadillac Group whose interest runs from '02 thru '14; i.e. covering all Cadillacs with copper water jackets. There you will find those who have the same era cars. Good luck........ oldiron

Steve; Bill makes a lot of sense; i.e. especially when he states that the vacuum tank is normally a very efficient and trouble free fuel delivery system. Get yourself a Dyke's automotive manual, you'll find it completely covers the trouble-shooting and repair of all vacuum tanks, plus the added bonus that you'll find it a great repair manual for all other aspects of your car. Incidentally, the problem doesn't have to be just the vacuum tank. I once ground the valves on a '26 Marmon, replaced the head gasket and head. Hooked up the vacuum tank line to the intake port in the head, and away I went. I ran well for a couple of hundred miles and then started starving for fuel. Well, no surprise when it was found that no longer was there enough vacuum being created to pull fuel into tank; this due to the head bolts having to be re-torqued once the head gasket seated itself, vacuum was lost due to this phenomenum. This re-tightening done, low and behold, increased vacuum, enough so that the tank again functioned properly all by itself. regards; oldiron

Appears to be a 1908/09/10 Maxwell,model "Q"? or perhaps a two cylinder job; regards; oldiron

Will someone please tell me what's going on at Hershey, what with competing auctions being held at the same time, but miles apart ? Thanks, and I'll follow the responses. regards; oldiron

Jim; It's easy enough to pull the head and inspect the head for flatness, and/or for scratch marks on the machined surfaces of the head,and the block. The gasket could also have scratches or imperfections. Re-assemble with a good head gasket shellac,or similar head gasket compound; i.e. such as "copper gasket sprayon". (this material will help seal any scratches or imperfections that might exist. I have used it very successfully on a few engines; i.e. such as Pierce Arrow and Marmon. Good luck and regards; oldiron

DaveB; the "BOBCAT" as noted on the back of your picture, and by your father, could well be a MARION "Bobcat", I believe produced around '09 to '12. The picture itself doesn't givemuch to go by though. Goodluck and regards; oldiron

Hey; ZondaC12; Check for possible collapsed hose, verify that you have the proper thermostat, and check your timing. They all contribute to heat generation. On the other hand, you might check for water flow into the radiator with cap off. This although just a visual check and not actually scientific, at least tells you that water is infact moving, and from idle, to higher speed, you should see a surge if everything is working properly. Good luck; regards; oldiron

Ganze; check to see that you don't have any cooling system hoses that might be collapsing. Further, check thermostat. Finally check your timing. Regards; oldiron

HEY TG57; Try the Pierce Arrow Society. I'm sure you can find them by googling. Regards; oldiron