61polara
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Posts posted by 61polara
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Many farms used these for power before electricity was brought into the area. At my Grandfathers farm there was a small building next to the chicken coop that was always called the "light house". As a small child, I couldn't imagine why they would need to guide ships so far inland and there was no light on top. Later, I found out that that's were where the batteries were to light the house. Only one jar remained (there may have been only one) and no evidence of how it was charged.
Here's a link to an earlier discussion on Battery Jars. Also try Google.
http://forums.aaca.org/forum/64-general-discussion/
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On 7/27/2018 at 12:06 AM, ted sweet said:
guess its not an hpof car. it will be staying home
Ted, I think you misread my post. Based on what you told us, there will be deductions, but not enough to exclude it from HPOF. Looking closer at your picture, I see aftermarket window shades, which would be a deduction also. I can't tell if the windows have aftermarket tint from the picture, if so that would be another deduction. As far as the battery, if it is the correct size and style for the year, there should be no deduction. Brand does not matter. All the other comments above are very good advise. Fix the easy deductions to take care of and bring it out to a National show and see how it does.
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Based on what you have told us, I see a deduction for the battery and radio. That's two points and 4 are allowed to be certified as HPOF. Check all of your hose clamps. The judges may find other items though.
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HPOF evaluation has evolved over time. A vehicle 1960 and newer is allowed 6 deductions out of 30 areas to be certified as HPOF. To achieve the higher level HPOF Original, only 2 deductions are allowed. Radial tires would be one deduction (including the Coker "pie crust" bias look radials.) Replacement floor mat would be another as well as the mirrors. The seat bottoms, seat backs and door panels if reupholstered would each receive a deduction. So we are at 6 deductions for this truck. It would certify if there are no other deductions. Generally there are additional deductions found under the hood for incorrect aftermarket replacement items. I'll also note, if this were a car with a back seat that had also been reupholstered there would be two additional deductions for the seat bottom and back and it would not be certified. Also, there is no set deduction for exterior repaint. A deduction is taken for each panel repainted. I suggest you download the Judges Guidelines from the AACA home page and look at the HPOF evaluation form.
Hope this clarifies some things.
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Contact SMS and sell it to them. They are a major obsolete upholstery supplier and always looking to buy new inventory.
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Very good questions and responses. HPOF evaluations are a tough job. Think about looking at a 1920's car that was restored in the early 1950's that the owner says was never restored. It takes a lot of experience to evaluate that car for HPOF certification. Factory original parts from one car can replace the parts on your car with no deduction, but reproduction parts are a deduction. Replacing bolts with new bolts of the same style and appearance during a repair is acceptable with no deduction. Replacing interior parts with the same parts from another car like car is acceptable. I have a '60's Lincoln convertible with interior parts from at least 6 different cars. I bought this car in the late '70's when there were plenty of same year sedans with good interiors in salvage yards. The front seat is from one car, the carpet another, dash pad from another, rear seat bottom from another, rear seat back from another and door panels from yet another car. All is factory original and not reupholstered. This would not be an HPOF deduction as it is all factory original, even though it is not original to the car. Front and rear bumpers have been changed to better ones from another car. Again, no deduction because they are factory original. NOS parts are acceptable with no deduction as well. Reproduction parts are deductions. BTW, my Lincoln is not HPOF certified because I have never brought it to an AACA National Meet. I haven't entered it as such because it has radial tires on it and has had two complete repaints. (Radial tires are on it only because I can buy four radial tires for the price of one correct bias ply tire, not because of the safety excuse.)
I hope this clears up a few questions. Even if you are not an AACA Judge, you can attend one of the Judging CJE's (Continuing Judging Education) sessions at any National Meet and you will learn a lot about what is acceptable on an HPOF car.
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Can you clarify your problem. You say that it stays in low gear but will not shift back into low.
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You did a great job on the event. Very enjoyable!
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Unfortunately, you can't restore your vehicle to original. HPOF rules allow replacement of wear items and allowable maintenance of the car. This includes tires, belts, hoses and clamps. The replacements must be of original style and appearance. That would mean correct size bias ply tires. There would be no deduction for dents, dings or scrapes in the body. If it is repaired and the paint matched so that it cannot be determined that it was repaired, there would not be a deduction. Reproduction floor mats and reupholstered interior would both be deductions. If you are able to find original seats and mats in better shape than what you have, they can be used with no deduction. A rechromed bumper would be a deduction, but swaping it for a better original one would not be. All of the things you would like to do would be acceptable in the DPC class, so you may want to consider going that way.
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Trust me. Your problem is not the thermostat. When a thermostat does not open, the block overheats, not the radiator. I think your problem is the radiator itself. Have it cleaned out and the block flushed until the water runs clear.
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They appear to be step bore cylinders which were used through 1942. I think they started around 1940. That number cross references to a Wagner part.
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Greg,
Have you recently done work on the rear brakes? If so, I would start looking at the adjustments. Either way, have you replaced the rear brake hose? Old hoses will swell internally and block the return of fluid to the master cylinder. Each time you apply the brakes, they will get tighter. I would replace that hose first and then bleed the rear brakes. Cut the old hose apart (across it) and I think you will find that there is almost no opening inside the hose.
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This sound normal. Starting the car will pull the battery voltage down and a generator does not charge much at idle. Depending on the car, the battery may have to be in the circuit for the car to run. Take the car out for a drive an then check the volts.
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Several posters have commented that the '55-'57 Chevy popularity started several years later. Ford and Plymouth in '57 had their rust problems and Chevy did not. They lasted and were easy to work on. They survived. In 1965, my Dad was shopping to trade his '61 Dodge Polara (see avatar, I still have it) on a new Pontiac. The salesman ask what he had to trade, Dad pointed to the Dodge and the salesman said, "I don't want it. Do you have anything else you can trade" Dad replied we had a '56 Chevy 150 two door sedan with the same 50,000 miles on it. Sight unseen, the salesman said, "I'll give you $1000 for it". Yes, it's true, the Chevys (and all '57 GM cars) were good, reliable and well built cars and that is why they are so popular today.
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Use your brake spring plyers to hook the original spring in the correct location. You can't pull it there by hand. Where did you get the new spring from? Post a picture of what you have done and we can help you.
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David, you've been a great asset here.
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Pour cheap cat litter in the can, leave the lid off and let it dry. The dried paint is considered non-toxic and can be put in the trash.
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And Plymouth was the best looking of the low price three!
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I'm not sure what you did when you say you adjusted the master cylinder. Did you adjust the pushrod? If so, you may have blocked the compensation port in the master cylinder. Did you overhaul the master cylinder? Did you bleed the master cylinder?
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They must be installed after painting as the photo of TG57Roadmaster's data plate is an original, unrestored car.
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Before bothering with the body tag, tell your Dad to ask the seller to have the registration corrected. If he won't walk away. Your Dad doesn't need to buy someone else's problem. Your state may accept it without a serial number verification, but many states will not. It may not be a problem now in buying the car, but could be a huge problem when he sells it. It will be more of a problem for you Dad to fix, than the seller, assuming he has the original documentation.
I just went through a situation where I wanted DMV correct the misspelling of my name on the title. The title was issued 20 years ago and had a "U" instead of a "W" in my last name. They pulled the hand written Application For Title to verify the spelling. It was approved and I got a corrected title in 2 weeks, but if the document clearly had a "U", I would have been stuck. My state still requires notarized signatures on titles and that could have been problematic because I don't have an ID with my name misspelled on it.
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In the dash pictures linked to above, I believe the two knobs below the clock are the heater controls. This car appears to have an aftermarket heater blower switch mounted below and to the left of the radio speaker. Chrysler offered several heater models in these years. In a car with no heater or an aftermarket heater, the knobs are dummy knobs just screwed onto the dash. In the deluxe heater options, one switch pulled out to increase blower speed and the other controlled the hot water flow to control the heat temp.
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I just looked back at the AACA National Meet results from Hershey in 2017 though the recent Grand National in Greensburg, PA. There were a total of 26 1946-1948 cars shown in Classes 26A, 26B, HPOF and DPC. Some of these may be the same cars at multiple shows.
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1946-1948 cars are mostly the same as the prewar cars, mechanically and in styling, as that was the quickest way to get cars back into production. In 1949-1955 all companies began offering new, overhead valve V8 engines, true automatic transmissions and other very advanced features over the 1948 models. The 1946-48 cars became technically obsolete very quickly and no one wanted one. They were mostly driven into the ground, because they were worth little as a trade-in. In the early '60's, I remember only a very few 1946-48 cars still on the road and they looked very much like antiques to me at that time. We're talking 12 to 14 year old cars. I only remember two in my very middle class neighborhood. One was a 1948 Plymouth coupe and the other was a 1948 Dodge four-door. The ones that remain are true survivors from a period that pasted them buy quickly.
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1962 chrysler newport
in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
Nick,
Is this the one with a replacement engine that you may have the original engine for. If so, that would be good information to post.