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61polara

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Posts posted by 61polara

  1. I still believe this is a carb issue.  It sounds like you did a great job cleaning the outside of the carb, but the internal passages are still blocked.  Did you blow out the internal passages with compressed air to clear them?  If not, you need to do another carb overhaul.  Contact CarbKing on here and buy a rebuilt carb from him.  I'll bet your problem will go away.  Don't get into the fluid drive until you know you have a good carb.

  2. It goes back to what MCHinson said.  You will need to apply for your car to be accepted in this class.  Supply all the documentation you have to prove that you should be in this class.  I would not be that concerned with the 1988 rule as the manual may not have been updated in that area for a number of years.  I think it should be through the most recent accepted year, but that is a decision of the committee.  

    Since your acceptance into this class is dependent on a committee approving it, don't delay in submitting the documentation.  The committee may only meet a few times a year, so you need to get it there in time so that a decision is made well before the beginning of the 2019 show season.

    Good luck!

    • Like 1
  3. I think you found your problem.  Your starter switch is bad.  If it has 6v coming in, it should have 6v coming out.  It does not act as a voltage reducer.  The solenoid closing at 1.3 volts sounds very low, but I don't have a manual handy.  I'm not aware of a voltage adjustment on a solenoid.

  4. I only had one problem with the '78 Cordoba and it happened to me 3 or 4 time in 100,000 miles.  In 40-50 degree weather, if it did not fire on the first crank, it would flood the engine to the point of wetting the spark plugs.  Plugs had to be changed or pulled and dried to get it to start again.

  5. Many times a O2 Sensor fault code is not a failed sensor, but an engine performance problem, such as the engine running too rich resulting in the check engine light coming on because the sensor is working.  OBD I won't tell you any more.  It's time for old time diagnostics.

    • Like 1
  6. Contact Key-men.com.  They were able to cut correct keys for my 1921 Maxwell.  They don't list 1923-24 Maxwell keys on their website, so they may have to do some research for you to get the correct key.  They did a great job for me.

  7. The posts above are very good  and you should consider them carefully.  I don't know exactly what you want in a car but look at what else is available out there.  You have pointed out the most obvious price changers.  Wrong engine, non-working AC, bad paint match on the door and incorrect wheels and tires.  I don't see any value ,added items here.  NADA shows average retail at $18,700.  

  8. I know of one DMV Commissioner who was fired for ordering employees to issue a title as a 1940 Ford.  The State General Assembly over reacted and passed one of the most restrictive old car transfer policies in the country.  This is truly a fraud, supported by the state the title was issued in.  I'd like to see the owner point out one original 1936 Packard part (other than title) on the car. 

  9. "Beginning approximately 1953, Mercedes-Benz had a very active network of "foreign agents" selling their products in almost all of the 48 States."

    I agree with this.  On your 300SL, is the original speedometer in MPH or KM?  Just curious if it was built to US specs.

     

    West has stated above, that the price of a 300d was about $14,000.  In 1953 the MSRP of a Cadillac 60 Special was $4,305 and in 1962 was $6,366.  The 1958 Cadillac Brougham was $13,074.  The 1956 Lincoln Mark II was $9,695.  As you can see the 300d was the German "Rolls Royce".

     

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  10. Roger,

    Have the current owner register the car in his name, then he can give you the proper documents to transfer the title to you.  There will be a penalty for failure to register within a certain time but most likely it is not a large amount.  Why is he trying to pass his problem on to you.  With no title in the sellers name, its a parts car and should be priced as such.  You may want to offer to cover the cost of registering the car in the sellers name.  If he doesn't want to do it, then walk away.  There are bigger title problems than he is telling you.

    • Like 2
  11. Mercedes were not imported into the US until 1957.  Anything earlier than this was sold outside the US and then imported into the US.  I know of a 1954 300 four door cabrio that was sold new in Paris and shipped to the US in 1960, documented.  Order the build card from Mercedes and it should tell you who the ordering dealer was.

  12. If you are in SC, laws have changed in the past couple of years.  You need to go to the DMV office and discuss the situation with them.  You will be asked to fill out a form describing how you acquired the vehicle and why there is no title with it.  A DMV officer will come out and verify the serial number and that form will be submitted to the main DMV Office in Columbia.  They will decide if your documentation is sufficient to issue a title.  Not easy, but prior to this there was no option in SC to obtain a title on a car without one.  History of the car and prior registrations will help.  If the owner lost the title, it is much easier to have him request a duplicate title.  

     

    When I run across these cars with no title, they should be parts car pricing unless the owner is willing to get a title.

    • Like 1
  13. In Low Range, will it shift from first to second?  If not, the governor is the issue.  I've read here that they won't shift unless the feed to the governor is dropped to 6v.  There have been a lot of posts on here about this with most coming to the conclusion that you cannot convert this transmission to 12 volts and expect it to shift.  Just do some searching.

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