61polara
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Posts posted by 61polara
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If it doesn't run, it's an appliance. It's great for an industrial design display.
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Specify that the paint will match or they will repaint the entire car. If you don't ask, you don't get. Have them buff out the paint before the match.
I've followed your posts on here for many years. Hope all works out well for you.
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Dodge built their own engines. Prior to bringing out the Dodge Brothers car, they were an engine supplier to Ford for the Model T.
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Your Chrysler has only one fuse, that is for the radio. Chrysler used only circuit breakers during those years.
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Determine where each of your aftermarket items pull their power from, It could be a bad connection at that point. Check the turn signal fuse again.
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The green blinking light on the dash is your turn signal indicator. The parking brake warning light is the light under the dash right above the parking brake.
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Looking at the other pictures, it appears the car received a side hit as well. That damage was not caused by the collision with the statue.
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A paper bag of early 1950's condoms in a 1947 Roadmaster trunk.
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I've also experimented using basecoat paint that had not been reduced and had good results.
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At least you have options. I have a 1970 car that came with F78-14 bias plys. Radials were not an option. The tire is available, but only with a 3" white wall. The size would be correct but the white wall size would still be a deduction.
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On 9/29/2018 at 5:47 AM, Spinneyhill said:
Wikipedia has this sentence in its article on Automatic Transmission Fluid:
"It turns out that Type A was basically a nearly 50/50 mix of Type F (Ford) and Dexron (GM),[citation needed] "
If it's on the internet, it has to be true. Since Type A was around before Dexron, I doubt that it was a 50/50 mix of Type F and Dexron.
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Nice looking car. The brakes may not need bleeding, but only adjustment.
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I have an original unrestored '42 DeSoto. The engine is silver with black accessories. When I purchased the car an original high compression head was in the trunk. it is natural aluminum with read lettering on the side of the head. My research found that his head was last available in 1941. From other posts of yours, you say that the head was off for a valve job. If the car had enough miles to need a valve job, it could have easily have had a water pump replacement. What color did you find on the block? Can you show us your evidence that late 41 and all 42 6 cylinder engines were painted red. I'm a Senior Master Judge in AACA and I'm asking for judging standards purposes not to get into an argument. So what I'm asking for is the factory documentation you found that the blocks were painted red. Sales material produced by the Art Department are usually not reliable documentation
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Dealer installed mag wheels are not acceptable and will receive a deduction unless they are factory authorized options. You will need factory documentation to avoid a deduction.
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Now you have the documentation. You can run a 225R X 15. To avoid a deduction, this is not a P225R75 x 15. Diamond Back Tires offers a correct 225R X 15 they have made for the Lincoln Mark III. Others may offer this as well. This includes the spare, which should match in size. Brand is not important.
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To use a 12v timing light on a 6v system, just attach the power leads to a 12v battery. Everything will work fine.
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As Keiser31 said above, your engine should be silver with black accessories.
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I've posted a link below to Chevrolet's instruction manual for driving a 1950 Powerglide. The 1950-52 Powerglide was like Buick's Dynaflow. No shifting of the transmission in Drive. Chevrolet notes that for faster take-off or for more power climbing a hill, manually move the shift leaver to Low and then back to Drive when Low is no longer needed.
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Try washing it several time with a gallon of water with a cup of kerosene in the water. Let it dry on the car, then wash it again. It will make a huge difference in the paint and will protect the bare metal from rusting.
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HPOF started off allowing only car 45 years old or older. This was changed to 35 years and then to the current 25 years. We want to start preserving cars as early as possible and that was the reason for the change. I think it was the right choice.
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Is that a supercharger on the engine in the last picture? Never heard of that option on a '49. Has the Cadillac crest on it.
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Your first call or visit should be to Minnesota DMV to find out what your title is and what the number is. In the 1940's either the motor number or body serial number was used on the title. If this was a state issued VIN then the state would attach a state issued VIN number to the body. Anyway, start with DMV. As far as the auction house saying that there is a federal law allowing you to make a plate to match the title, ask them for a copy of the law. I think you will get a "deer in the headlights" look. Title laws are state only and this is BS.
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Sounds like you need to look inside the transmission.
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If you go ahead with the conversion, document what car everything you use comes from. At some point you or the next owner will need to replace something and you need to know what to ask for at the parts store. Saying that its a '53 Pontiac will no longer work. Also saying you need brake pads for a GM caliper won't work either. Most parts guys can't even look up a part without year, make and model.
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Damage to my 48 Lincoln
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by 61polara (see edit history)
Ask who their garage insurance is with. Tell them it will be in primer for less than 24 hours before they repaint the whole car. Get their insurance adjuster out there. Have you called your insurance company? They may help with the pressure on the garage. Call an attorney. Their fees may be much less than a repaint.