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Posts posted by 61polara
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They appear to be 1957 Buick.
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On 4/13/2023 at 2:53 AM, Mpgp1999 said:
I am trying to find the specifications for hpof. What is the maximum score.
Matt is correct. The HPOF class is evaluated on a 30 point system.
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2 minutes ago, 8E45E said:
I believe actual hydraulic fluid was used in the majority of original systems, as it did not have to withstand heat like brake fluid does.
Most of the window systems I've seen used brake fluid and many convertible top systems used brake fluid through the early 1960's. I don't know why they stayed with brake fluid for the top systems so long.
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Hydraulic windows began around 1941 and lasted through the early 1950's. Chrysler was the first to change to electric windows in 1951 or 1952. GM made the change in 1954. These systems used brake fluid in the system and it was recommended to change the fluid every six months because of water absorption in the fluid. When a car with these systems sits, the fluid will slowly leak past the valve at the bottom of each cylinder and the windows will slowly come down and cannot be raised until the electric pump is run. Besides brake fluid absorbing moisture, it has poor lubricating properties. When the window is up, the rod from the cylinder is extended and will slowly begin to build corrosion on the rod. These rods (pistons) are chrome plated to slow this, but it still occurs over time. When the window is lowered, the corrosion will begin to cut the top seal on the cylinder and fluid will begin to seep out. Brake fluid is one of the best paint strippers available; so when enough brake fluid leaks out, it will strip the paint off the door and sill. If you have a car with this system, you should change to automatic transmission fluid in the system, which will keep the rod in the piston lubricated and will not strip paint if the system begins to leak. The conversion to ATF requires that the rubber hoses in each door and the seat be changed to new hoses that are compatible with ATF.
Our cars have been using hydraulic power top systems for years which is a very similar system to the windows. These systems can be very reliable but should be operated frequently to keep the cylinder rod lubricated after the system is converted to ATF.
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Is your choke working properly?
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Wrong size and shape for a jump seat. Maybe an MGB.
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This section of the forum is for cars recognized by the Classic Car Club of America, which are mostly pre-WWII cars. I think you will receive more comments if you post this in the AACA Technical section above.
Quick research shows that the dual exhaust Camaro used straight exhaust pipes out the back which ended just under the rear bumper. No competent exhaust shop in the US would install an exhaust outlet ended under the passenger compartment of the car as is done on your car.
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Ford actually had a recall fix for this problem. They mailed all owners a sticker to be applied to the dash that said "Always apply the parking brake when parking".
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Post your question in the Buick section further below. A lot of Buick experts there.
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Steve has given a very good assessment of what to look for. MB keeps many parts in production for may years, so parts should not be a problem. Make sure you have a good MB mechanic in the area unless you are doing all your own work. The antenna problem is usually bad solder joints on the circuit board that can be resoldered.
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The first thing I would look at is the coil if it is running well sometimes, but not at other times. Also look at the primary and secondary wiring to the coil. Your car has a coil mounted int he firewall and one wire is in a shelided cable to the ignition switch.
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The first thing I tell any friends who are looking to by a resto-mod is to ask for a detailed parts list for all the modifications and what year and model they came from, not just who they bought them from. Run if they can't supply it. With that said, I doubt there was much change in the Pacer front ends from year to year. Start by contacting AMC parts suppliers to see if you can get a parts list and then see what changed from year to year.
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Good luck on finding a skin. Most likely you will need to find a door. Changing out the complete door will be easier than removing the skin from one door and putting it on another, but it can be done.
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7 minutes ago, rocketraider said:
The one Bernie linked to looks to be either a soft rim or leather wrapped.
You're right. I missed that.
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Gary's Steering Wheel Restoration is very good as well as Steering Wheel Bob in New Jersey. Both do top quality repair and paint restorations of steering wheels.
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2 hours ago, TAKerry said:
I had a reputable (and go to person in the T/A world) re-do the steering wheel for my car. Talking to her husband, he said they were allowed to recover but that was it. The Gov't came down on them for doing restorations that were not DOT compliant. He told me that once they touch the 'structure' of the wheel that is a violation. I am sure there may be someone doing these though.
I'm surprised to hear this comment. It's almost like a cover story of why they no longer want to do steering wheel repair. Considering all the post manufacturer changes that are being done to brakes, suspensions, custom wheels by professional shops and individuals, repairing or recasting a steering wheel is no different. I think there is more to this story.
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6 minutes ago, MarkV said:
Yes the issue is when it hits the sun, I had a nice one on my other Imperial and within a few months it was toast. Something to do with the plastics used
The modern UV resistant material used in recasting steering wheels will not do this.
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20 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:
There is an NOS one listed now at $350, probably not far from the cost of professional repair.
Your sense of urgency has a lot to do with the cost. I would sit back and let one in the correct color come up. Tag a search of models that fir and they will notify you.
$350 is a bargain for an NOS steering wheel. You can paint and clearcoat it to match. I believe most individuals who restore steering wheels (repair and paint) will tell you that this steeringwheel is past the point of repair and will need a recasting. If they can repair it, it could be in the $700 range. A total recast would be around $2000 if you find someone who has the mold for it.
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There are several of us who would like to participate, but we have commitments with the AACA Nationals in Gettysburg that weekend.
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This is the best way to learn Excel. Determine what you want to do and google it. Save your working files to new files for testing. You will have many failed results, but many learning experiences from it.
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It can be done, but first you have to enter the 50 page parts manual into an Excel spreadsheet. You can manually enter the data or scan it and convert the scanned pages to an Excel spreadsheet. Comon data that you will use to cross-reference from your model list to the parts list must be in the same exact format for a search function to work.
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It's basically two six volt batteries in one case. A Ford style starter relay would be mounted between the two center terminals. When the starter was engaged, it joined the two six volt sides together to give 12 volts for starting. When the starter was released, it reverted to 6 volts to power all electrical components.
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Thanks guys, I found what I was looking for. It's in the Commercial (Ambulance, etc) section.
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I think there used to be a Professional Car Society page here, but I can't find it
Neutral safety switch
in General Discussion
Posted
It could be a simple as not leaving the key in the ignition.