61polara
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Posts posted by 61polara
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There was little change in the 1920-1922 Maxwells. As you can see, there is no year designation on the outside of the sales brochure. Even the text and most of the pictures carried forward from year to year. There is only one page in the brochure text that mentions the year and no other change to the text. Walter Chrysler became president of Maxwell in 1921 and began making running changes to correct certain problems plaguing the Model 25, such as braces for the rear axle housing which was prone to breaking. 1922 saw the beginning of design changes, such as changing the headlights to a drum style and steel wheels.
This brochure appears to be 1919 as that is the only year that Maxwell used wide spaced, and larger vents on the side of the hood. For 1920, they returned to the thinner hood vents used on the prior cars.
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The turn signal arm is identical to the 1940-47 Buick leaver. In 1948, Buick switched from ivory to black plastic. Starting in 1942, Buick steering columns were grey. Buick offered factory turn signals in 1939 for an industry first, but the signal switch was different. In 1940 and 1941, Buick used a brown column and changed to this style switch. The leaver mounts on the right side of the steering column rather than on the left. Reversed this way, the socket hole at the hump would be on the bottom and would be the pivot for the gear shift leaver. So it looks like you have a 1940-41 turn signal housing and switch. The switch may be the same through 1949.
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It's possible, but there is no such thing as a Ford-Maxwell. They were two different companies. I believe they both used the same size tires and wood spoke wheels, so it could be a aftermarket spare that fit both Fords and Maxwells of that period.
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If this photo is from the mid to late 1930's, this was an old car by then. Likely, the car was originally delivered with black wall tires, which were rotated to the ground as the service tire wore out. Through the years the spare wheel covers were eliminated and the car later updated with white wall tires. Many times wealthy owners would send older cars to their summer home for use while they were on location. Possibly traveling to the summer home (or camp) by train. The house looks like it would fit this story line.
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I agree this appears to be set up for a boat. Most of the boat builders in the 1930's used car steering wheels, but sometimes cast in a different color, such as a white. I've done an extensive search and can give you a long list of what isn't. The bars holding the spokes together are unique and that is what I've been unable to match. If it has automotive origins, it's from a mid-1930's car with floor shift. No turn signals on these cars, so there would not be a provision for that. The horn wire most likely fed down through the steering column. Holes for bolting on a puller came later. This style wheel used a puller that lifted from the outside bottom of the hub.
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19 hours ago, dodge28 said:
As far as I can remember those cars parking brakes operated with some sort of vacuum. Engine had to be running, engage a gear and the brake will release. Park on a slope facing upward poses a problem. My neighbor did just that. I cannot remember what she did but after some strugle it did release.
Based on the diagram posted above, there is a push button on the dash that uses vacuum to release the parking brake. That's all that vacuum does. There is a manual pull release on the brake as well.
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It's close to a 1935-36 Ford but the spoke holders again are not correct. Can you remove the bolt from the hub? I'd like to see if it is a tapered hole with a keyway or splines. The tapered hole would indicate a Ford. Most others used splines.
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Things are well in the works for the 2024 Annual Meeting, but until everything is committed we can't say. Where would you like the 2025 Annual Meeting to be held?
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Congratulations! You've been very active here. If you're not a current member of National AACA, I hope you will consider joining and supporting the organization that provides this great forum.
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Your brake switch will mount somewhere so that the plunger is depressed when the emergency brake pedal is all the way up.
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I agree that it is the deluxe 48D model. I see trim holes for the stainless steel rocker moldings and the chrome "mini fins" on the rear fenders. The model 48 did not have these trim pieces.
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12 minutes ago, CChinn said:
Trying to add a short 8 sec and 15 sec video of the car being driven, similar to other posts in the forum of our cars being driven , but keep getting a message that the video exceeds the size limit. Any suggestions on how to post the videos would be appreciated
Load it to YouTube and post the link here.
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It appears to be a 1949-early 1950's Plymouth station wagon only tail light.
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The lobes on the cam adjusters should point inward so that the shoes are as far in as possible prior to the initial adjustment with the drums on. You can determine if the cam retaining springs need to be adjusted if you are using the Miller or Ammco 1750 tool. If not, it is only by looking the shoe wear pattern after driving the car.
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And one more...
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I think this video will cover everything you're asking. The only point that is missing is that you start with the arrows on the internal anchor pins pointing towards the wheel cylinder. Having the original style adjusting tools is a great help. The factory Miller tool is very expensive when you can find one. The Ammco 1750 tool works just as well and can often be found on EBay at a better (not cheap) price than the Miller set. The homemade tool will work, but there is no provision for setting the shoe for proper drum clearance. Because of this, you have to do a final adjustment from the back of the backing plate to move the shoes out to the drum.
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Avanti Bill please attend one of our Judging School given at each of our Nationals. We are always looking for judges in specialty areas. There is no charge and no commitment needed.
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Avanti Bill if you are not currently an AACA judge we would welcome your participation.
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BryanFJ1 still following you. Go to your local NAPA store or other parts store and buy a roll of gasket material. Cut a section larger than the gasket you need. Place it over the part that needs the gasket and take the ball end of a ball pein hammer and tap around all the edged and holes. Cut the gasket along the lines. For the holes, an inexpensive gasket cutter set from Harbor Freight will do a great job for you.
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Have you requested a copy of your judging form from the VP of Judging? This will provide you with a copy of the judging form highlighted with areas of deductions. The actual point score is not released.
If your car is the one at Auburn in 2021, then there was one other car in your class. Both of these cars received a 2nd Junior Award. (Lists of award winners are available on the AACA Home Page). This means that both cars scored less than 365 points out of 400. Since you are in the Archival Class in BCA, consider moving to HPOF in AACA. BCA judging is very similar to AACA judging so look at what it would take in BCA to win a First Place in a BCA National as well.
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This is a 1948-1947 Buick horn button center. There is an etched brass disk that goes behind it. Here are the various parts and the final assembly. This is a clear center and ivory outer ring that I cast and painted. I wish I could find someone to chrome and gold plate these items in small quanties.
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The part number appears to be 1941 Cadillac. If the paint is original, then this is a factory replacement part after Feb 1942 when chrome plating was banned. I've seen a 1941 Buick parking/turnsignal bezed NOS painted olive drab. These are not aftermarket parts, but rather factory original. There may be great chrome under the paint, if not they are great item for plating.
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On 4/13/2023 at 12:57 PM, Mpgp1999 said:
I am trying to get a perfect score in the HPOF class. I am looking for an original 12 V battery. I will then rebuild it. I’m not sure if there are any other items that I could lose points on?
Although there are generally no deductions in HPOF for condition, if a part or component is deteriorated to the point that it is no longer useful for its intended purpose or missing there could be a deduction. Your car could receive up to 9 deductions and still receive the HPOF award. Only 4 deductions would be permitted to receive the HPOF Original award.
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1954 Oldsmobile Hydro-Electric Windows
in Technical
Posted
Here are the basics of the system which first came into use around 1940. There is a firewall mounted pump motor with a reservoir located on the bottom of the pump motor. These systems used brake fluid for the hydraulic fluid and the factory service was to flush the system and change the fluid every six months as brake fluid absorbs moisture. Each door and the front seat has a single hydraulic cylinder to operate the window or seat. When the up switch is pushed, the pump motor runs and pressurizes the entire system. The switch opens a valve at the bottom of the individual window cylinder and the hydraulic pressure raises the window. To lower the window, the switch is pushed to the down position which opens the valve on that window cylinder. A strong spring forces the fluid out of the cylinder and back into the reservoir. The pump does not run for this operation.
The only electrical operation at the individual window is the solenoid opening the valve. Olds, Cadillac and Buick switched to 12 volts in 1953. The solenoid in the cylinder is voltage specific. 12 volt cylinders are stamped 12v on the base and are rare because they were only in use in 1953 and 1954. The fluid should be changed to ATF which will require replacement of the rubber lines with compatible rubber because brake fluid is one of the best paint removers you can buy. Don't convert to DOT 5 brake fluid because it doesn't have the lubricating properties needed. The cylinders usually fail because of corrosion and burrs forming on the chrome plated rod coming out of the cylinder, which is exposed when the window is up. When the window is lowered, this will wear and or cut the top seal of the cylinder and it will begin to leak at the seal. When the car is parked for an extended time, the windows will slowly start coming down. For extended storage, you can wedge the window up using a wooden dowel. Hydro-E-Lectric used to rebuild these units.