fatbuick

Just started a new thread called Heater Box Removal. because my heater box is tight to get out. This is good information. Wish I had it earlier. Do you think if I remove the two scews holding the bale the core will come out?

Close but no cigar. I read the info about removing the heater core on the ROA site but I didn't expect my core to be solidly jammed in the heater box. Rusted in. I tried several ways of separating the two in the car which I won't go into but its solid. I thought if I can get the whole box out it would be the only way to separate the core from it. I cut the inlet and outlet pipes off to give me more opportunity to flip it under the dash but I can't quite flip it to squeeze it out to the right. Any tips on how to get it out would be appreciated otherwise I'll resort to cutting the bottom dash brace out in the center and welding it back in.

Hi Jim, I have left the box in the car but just pulled it away from the inner firewall. Are you supposed to take the whole box out?

Thanks Kevin. I thought the speaker might come out through that panel but the dash pad sounds easy enough. I might use the opportunity to replace the bulbs. I'm having fun with the heater core replacement. I've got the box away from the firewall under the dash but the core is stuck in the box. Rusted in one corner. I've sprayed WD40 overnight and will try later today to free it out.

Thanks, that will allow me to get to the centre speaker to measure and get a new one from RetroSound.com I'll replace it with their DVC (dual voice coil) version. If you know the size let me know. The rear one is 6" x 9" and maybe t he fron one is the same

Hi all, How does one remove the chrome ends on the slider accessory levers under the dash pad? Is it a philips headscrew or allen screw?

Thanks Jm. I just checked mine and I can only get 4 positions in the upper range and nothing past half way even if I pull the lever harder

That's interesting. Thanks

I'm just wondering if it's correct for the wheel to tilt upwards from normal in line with column position only. On my later Buicks they tilt both up and down from centre.

Hi Rex, I'm restoring my 65 Riv and would love to see pictures of your installation and your comments about the air suspension system you went with. I'm particularly keen to know how she rides compared to the springs when you get to drive it.

Found similar paper tags on mine but no writing. Too late to look now because it's got fresh paint on it. 0023 Carl, is your Verde Green Riv one that used to get around Alpine CA?

Hi Middleman, can you post some pictures of how the Riv looks lowered 2" please?

Welcome back to the ROA Rob. A very nice GS and as Jason says highly optioned similar to mine which I'm restoring at the moment. I notice the "R" logo is missing from the door panels. I'm restoring my door panels at the moment and wondering how to best put the "R" logos back on because I had to grind the posts on the back to get them off. Glue I guess will do the t rick. Progress pictures here: Tony's 65 Riviera Project

Thanks anyway John

Many thanks

Hi John, I need a pair of the chrome style seat belt buckles and tongues for a 65 Riviera with the Carriage on them. If you have any, please send me a picture and your asking price. Regards,

Hi there, I need a pair of the chrome style seat belt buckles and tongues for a 65 Riviera with the Carriage on them. If you have any, please send me a picture and your asking price. Regards,

Thanks guys. I have bought from Rubber the Right Way before and agree they are great to deal with. They even allowed me to ship other parts I'd bought to them and added them to the parcel to save me freight costs to Australia. Not many places are capable or willing to handle anything out of the ordinary like that. I've just ordered the fuzzies from RTRW even though the eBay kit is good value my outer ones are in good condition and I like the way the originals have that little kink in the polished strip on top, to go around the 1/4 vent window.

Hi all, My 65 Riv resto is coming along nicely with paint on now and it should be back to me in a couple of weeks. Click here to see the progress shots 1) I'm restoring the door panels and need to source the correct Window Felt Set. Classic Buick seems to be the only place that specifies them for 63-65 Rivs. Has anyone recently purchased same from somewhere else that are correct before I place the order? I'm reluctant because their freight rates to Australia are usually high. 2) I've had bumpers and garnish molds rechromed nicely but the tail light bezels did not work well. There are specialist chromers here that will do a good job but I think the price will be about the same as the new ones advertised on oldbuickparts.com Does anyone else have any experience with the quality of these $347 sets before I bite the bullet?

Thanks Ed, I was originally going to air bag it but decided not to go that far. Front shocks need to be relocated etc. I'll look into the Jamco option later.

Hi Jason and Ed, I'd never seen those twist-in things before and thought "what a great idea" but I will be looking for new springs 2" lower and a bit stiffer. I've seen a few threads recently on the subject but haven't had time to follow up. When I first got the car it had all the extras including pinstriping etc and I tediously took all that and the tacho off, buffed the paint and those are the middle pictures. The wheels in the first pictures were chrome after-market wheels the owner had on the car but it was delivered with rallye wheels at my request which I have sold. I didn't intend on having it repainted so soon. I thought I would just get the roof painted because it wasn't true vinyl and then do the whole car in a year or so. It will be a very mild custom. Have you guys ever heard of rear air shocks for a 65 Riv and has anyone ever made air shocks for the front. It would be great to lower the car about 3" all round but with the ability to raise and lower a few inches when needed. A couple of small compressors could be mounted somewhere to do this.

Dear friends, As some of you know we had a 3 week holiday in the USA and just got back on Monday. We thoroughly enjoyed the parts we visited and the people we met: Dallas TX, NYC, Vegas, LA and San Diego We were lucky to coincide with the Texas State Fair in Dallas, experienced uncharacteristically freezing weather in NYC and the Halloween Parade. It was all great fun and SEMA was huge of course. It was also good to catch up with a couple of ROA members and we thank them for their hospitality, Scott and Debbie Malany in Dallas TX and Dick and Debbie Sweeney in Alpine CA. Anyway, before we left I took the recently purchased 65 Riviera to my favorite restorer Wally's Panel & Paint for a quote to get rid of the crappy black imitation vinyl roof. Well, he offered me such a good deal I decided to get the whole car done. I know he'll do a great job because he painted the Boattail and the Wildcat for me. Click here to see the progress shots if you're interested. Keep the link as I'm sure to update the gallery as we make progress.

Thanks Jim. The gas tank is vented so my guess is the cap could be either but on a car with a non-vented tank it would need to be a vented cap. Just just my theory.

My 65's old cap is non-vented but I just received one from Cars Inc and it's vented. Is there a problem having the wrong type of cap and what is correct type for a 65? Regards,

Sorry Tom, that was poorly worded on my part. I have a 65 and wanted to confirm that the trim pieces are the same as 63-64. Also, I saw a Jack Insruction Sticker on eBay and realize that the 65 has notches in the bumper so my jack is actually complete. You learn something every day. Regards,