fatbuick

Hi Jim, You may be right and I have a new switch to put in as soon as I find a girl with tiny hands to fit up there. Here is a picture from the manual which shows the circuit breaker.

I'm very happy with the Bilstein shocks sold by member George Hussey in the Riview. No mods required and suit standard height or GS height Riv. The Sensa-tracs were way to floaty at highway speed for my liking. Contact George through his site www.autoatlanta.com I also have a heavier front sway bar and a mako rear sway bar kit which we had designed amnd made. Minimal body roll.

Hi Guys, I recently upgraded the head lights with Halogens and noticed that on hi-beam the lights including the red hi-beam indicator on the dash start to flicker once wamed up. On low bean no issues. Alternator is stock. Has any one else had similar issues? I replaced the dimmer stwitch but it made no difference. I'm thinking it may be the circuit breaker mounted on the left innner fender where the main power cable hooks up. Is there a stronger circuit breaker available or is it best to bypass it and intall a heavier fuse?

Hi Eric, Thanks for your experience. By leaving all the vacuum hoses in place and just disconnecting the solenoid it all looks factory. I'm getting just a little vacuum at idle and much more at 1000+ rpm. I have not put the timing light on it with the vacuum line attached.

Just as an update on this... Today I simply disconnnected the plug on the solenoid near the carb and I'm getting vacuum from about 1000 rpm in all gears. It idles smoother and has much more throttle response. At WOT on level ground no pinging but I'm yet to test uphill. Timing is the normal recommended 4 degrees BTDC. If it pings uphill I'll restrict the vacuum advance to 10-15 degrees max. I'm very happy with this change.

Thanks Jason. I think I will do the same just so I can run manifold vacuum to the distributor and see if it runs better. Due to pinging in top gear under hard acceleration I've been only running mechanical advance. I intend to put stronger springs for the mechanical and restrict the vacuum advance to 10-15 degrees. Then I should be able to run manifold vacuum and improve response and fuel economy. I'm preparing the 71 Riv for a trip from Sydney to Perth in August for the Buick Nationals.

My 71 Riv has the CCS system all in tact but I'm wondering if there are improvements to be achieved by disabling the transmission controlled vacuum part of the CCS. Usually pre-emissions = better performance right? I usually hook up unported vacuum to the distributor on my other earlier Buick nailheads which I find gives a bit more response off the line. What is the general concensus on this subject?

Hi Don, Here's some info about the 79 Riv from the current owner Bob Caleo... Hi Tony The fellow I bought my 79 Riv from was John J Koutre of 2331 Rainbow Drive, Plover, Wisconsin USA. John was the third owner of the car. The original owner was a lady who owned the car for a few years, then passed it on to her son, who sold it to John Koutre. Hoping this helps. Kindest regards, Bob

That sounds like a reasonable assumption. It's never going to work with a crack in it so you may as well give it a try.

What an awesome find Ed. Well done!

[TABLE=class: data-table] <tbody>[TR] [TD=class: label]These are the details of the radiator I purchased: Part Number [/TD] [TD=class: data]005070AADZ[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: label]Material[/TD] [TD=class: data]Copper/Brass[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: label]Factory AC[/TD] [TD=class: data]Yes[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: label]Rows[/TD] [TD=class: data]4 Rows[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: label]Core Size[/TD] [TD=class: data]17-3/8 x 24-3/4 x 2-5/8[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: label]Core[/TD] [TD=class: data]High Efficiency[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: label]Core Description[/TD] [TD=class: data]4 rows of 1/2" tubes on 3/8" centers. 20% more heat transfer points over a 4 row "Standard Automotive Core" without changing the thickness of the core.[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: label]Flow Type[/TD] [TD=class: data]Downflow (Tanks on top and bottom)[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: label]Inlet Size[/TD] [TD=class: data]1-1/2"[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: label]Outlet Size[/TD] [TD=class: data]1-1/2"[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: label]Transmission Cooler Size[/TD] [TD=class: data]12-1/2x3/8 IF[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: label]Manufacturer[/TD] [TD=class: data]U.S. Radiator[/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE]

Great detailed advice. You have to wait for the right time to do these tasks, no point rushing. The list gets longer. Another job I must do is rear 1/4 window tracks and rollers.

Hi Jan, Yes Maine USA is where the car was from and because our Historic Plates are small the old plates are visible which I like. See the details and restoration gallery here:http://mako.com.au/buick/html/65_riviera.htm

Has anyone else noticed this interesting mismatch on some 65's where the left fender meets the front hood lip? I asked my painter to fix this error which I thought was the result of a poor accident repair. Since then I have seen lots of 65's with the same fault. click to enlarge image Take a look at your 65 and you may be surprised as we were at the ROA Regional Meet downunder. We had 9x 65 Rivs and about 50% had this mismatch. My theory is that at some stage in production there was a breakage with the stamping die and it was subsequently repaired poorly, leading to this error in sheet metal? If I'm right, all 65's built after that date should have the fault. What do I tech advisers think? My ID Plate Mine after repair Could we perhaps send in a picture of this area and ID plates to varify? Look forward to some feedback.

A great weekend away with a total of 30 Rivs Downunder. Bathurst is famous for the annual race which is on a public road on Mt Panorama. We all got to do a couple of laps which was interesting as we imagined the cars that go around the course at incredible speeds, compared with what we were allowed to do. There were 9x 65 Rivs in attendance as you'll see in this small gallery I've uploaded. That's more than any of us had ever seen in one location. The local paper also did this article about the meet and particularly focused on the Show N Shine on Sunday. http://www.westernadvocate.com.au/story/2309413/gallery-buick-riviera-show-and-shine/?cs=115 ENJOY!

Sorry I didn't update you with the results of the 4 core radiator installation. Basically it solved all my problems and runs between 180 and 190 in all conditions.

Thanks Jim, I'll try doing exactly what you describe because I was trying to push up first so that may have been the problem. I'm sure 65 would be the same as 63-64. My tilt-column goes up from centre but not down but I can always take the wheel off if I must. Won't have time to do this until later in the year. Preparing to drive the Boattail to our Buick Nationals in Perth in late August. It's a long way from Sydney. 2,500 miles one way.http://www.mapsofworld.com/australia/distance-calculator/sydney-to-perth.html

It's a mid sixties corvette color and I believe called Lemans Blue.

Just had a look at your site and you have good taste in color for your 65. see mine here http://mako.com.au/buick/html/65_riviera.htm

I've never seen full size Buick front drums without the rivets so if the ones you have purchased did not have rivets maybe they are not correct for a FS Buick.

Thanks Rufcar, I really appreciate your input and will give it a go when I have time and let you know.

This is an old thread but I'm hoping you can update it with what happened in the end. Dash Pad or access panel. I just tried through the access panel today briefly and gave up when I couldn't even reach the switch. I'm frightened my dash pad might crack removing it but will give it a try. You just remove all the screws and push it up at the front before pulling it away from the screen, right? Don't know how hard one needs to push but mine seems stuck.

Hi Dave, Have tried sending you private massages but don't know if they went through. I'm interested in the kickdown and a good chrome strip low down on the door. Contact me offline at: mako.com.au using the email form Regards,

Hi all, Does anyone know if it's possible to get new side mouldings (ones that run full length of car) and the rubber inserts on the face of the bumper bars? Also after a rubber Brake pedal pad. Thanks.

Of course it was obvious when I went and checked on my 71. I couldn't remember and a fellow club member asked me how to. I'm not a BCA member these days and had no idea you were president of that fine club. Congratulations Kevin. I'll never forget your kindness in 2006 when you loaned your cars. Hope to meet again one day.