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Everything posted by fatbuick

  1. Sounds like a great opportunity because need replacing. Please put me down for a set Tom.
  2. Hi Tom, Of course you are right. I did read it but being dumb I didn't know what it all meant. Now I think I do
  3. Thanks for your input guys. I've learned a bit recently and what you say is correct Andrew as confirmed by Jim at JD Race and said this and kindly attached the picture: "3.07 and 3.42 take a different carrier. The offset height is different like in this picture. "
  4. Hi guys, let’s say I find a 3.42 posi from a 65 Riv and I have a 3.07 open diff can or use the posi parts from the 3.42 with my parts to make a 3.07 posi? You can see I don’t have a deep knowledge of the correct terminology but happy to rely on your knowledge 🙏
  5. I'm doing an LS3 swap into my 65 so have decided to sell the engine and trans. It's not a numbers matching car otherwise I wouldn't do this. Genuine 1965 Riviera Factory LX Code 425 Gran Sport Dual Quad nailhead engine complete. Previous owner painted the engine red but it is a 1965 engine which was green. New AC compressor, New Alternator , New Water Pump. Carburetors were plated and overhauled The engine has blow by so will need new rings at least. Good oil pressure and no excessive oil consumption though. (20psi at idle and 30 running, uses 1 quart per 1000 miles) Matching Gran Sport BS Code SP400 Transmission with new torque converter included. (professionally rebuilt 11K miles ago) For US customers, currently AU$1 = USD 67c so take 67% of the price shown to get the US$ equivalent, shipping is no problem and I've been told to allow about AU$1500 (approx US$1000) + cost of a custom-made crate. Contact me for more information. Pics on ebay: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/184172546150
  6. You need to make sure that the front carb is not stopping the main carb from getting full throttle. I disconnect the front carb, get full throttle on the main carb and pull the front carb to full throttle and adjust the bolt to give you full throttle on both. Hope that makes sense. I've seen some short bolts and I just ouldn't get full throttle on the main.
  7. Thanks Tom, I wasn't aware of that. I'll work out what ratio I need. From what years can I fit a 65 Riv diff housing? For example would you 66 2.78 center fit in my housing?
  8. Hi Guys, Just wondering if anyone has a 65 Riviera PosiTraction Diff they want to sell. I think they came out in 3.07 and 3.23 ratios so I'll need to know that. PM me if you like Thanks
  9. So, can anyone confirm how many ohms a 65 Riv has? is it 0-90 ?
  10. I think there must be something wrong with the compressor if you're shredding belts. The details of my compressor which does have twin belts is in this thread Feb 2016
  11. Exactly. I had an enquiry so that's why I thought I had better make sure.
  12. Thanks Jan, I used these same Narva lights in my 65 but will be installing a relay for both cars. There's a special one Tom Kunek found which he's doing an article on.
  13. A couple of my headlights have stopped working and I was not that happy with the lack of brightness anyway. Thinking of going to this Halogen upgrade kit which will pull 55w on low beam and 100w on high beam. https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/narva-72050 https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/narva-72060 I know with the 1st Gen Rivs it's advisable to add a relay because the juice goes through the headlight switch and overheats it. Just wondering if anyone know if the 71 would be the same deal or is there a relay somewhere already? Thanks.
  14. As you know I do a front disc brake kit conversion for Rivs and have just had an enquiry for a 1970 year model. I've always assumed 66-70 have the same spindles but I had better make sure. 66-69 look like this. Thanks
  15. Thanks guys. We'll check out your suggestions Have settled into Vancouver today and doing the Hop On Hop Off tomorrow
  16. Just a quick message to let you know that we'll be visiting Canada soon. In case you know of any car shows in the areas we're visiting or if you want to meet up for a coffee or something. We arrive in Vancouver this Sat 1st (13.5hr flight so might be a bit jet lagged) Tues 4th Sep - Vancouver to Toronto and staying in the Ontario area until about the 19th 19th to 24th Sep - We haven't planned anything but will probably drive somewhere further out 25th Sep - Leaving Toronto to Vancouver O/N and then home to Sydney Aust Regards,
  17. No baffles at all. I didn't think the alloy valve covers were supposed to have them. I'll try it with the PCV valve removed. It was smelly and oily through the breather/filler cap so I blocked the holes under the cap and put a nipple in it which has a rubber hose going into the air cleaner. Is the cap supposed to suck air in or blow it out? I assumed the latter.
  18. Interesting topic. My brakes were gradually getting worse as in a hard pedal. (disc brakes on the front) All worked well for years then this issue. Tried different pads etc etc. Finally had a custom booster made (meant for disc brakes) so it would bolt right in and installed. Brakes a great again. For the hell of it, after I removed the check valve from the old booster. To my surprise the valve was full of engine oil. I have dual quads and as you know there is a T-piece behind the front carbie - one side comes from the PCV valve and the other goes to the booster. It's seems oil fumes turn into oil and trickled down the vac line into the booster check valve. So I don't believe there was anything wrong with the original booster, just this oil stopping the valve from checking. To avoid this happening again I have block the left side of the T-piece and now getting booster vacuum from the main port on the rear of the main carbie. I made a new hard line as shown in the picture. My cruise control is coming from the small nipple on the manifold, close to the kick down switch and works fine. I have put a T into the line that goes from carbie to the distributor which feeds the Vac Tank. Has anyone ever had the same issue?
  19. I agree that eBay used to be fun both selling and buying. Selling: now, no one bids until the last few seconds (unless you have a NOS horn bar) I can't understand why eBay don't change the system to continue allowing bids until no one has bid for say 30 seconds. Much like a normal auction works. This would be a great advantage for sellers and I'm sure they would achieve a higher realistic final price. Ebay are only interested in people with big turnover and eBay Stores, not individuals selling the odd thing.
  20. Thanks for everyones help. Resisitor was faulty and a couple of poor connections. All fixed and now getting all the speeds as per the manual
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