68RIVGS
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Posts posted by 68RIVGS
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Never saw a fisher body plate w/phillips head allen screws before. Looks like a fun car..Steve
. . . probably makes em a lot easier to change !!
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Very nice car - looks like it may have been rust proofed at one time?
Note the plugs in the lower front and rear door pillars and rear lower portion of the doors, or are these plugs standard on '74s ?
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Hey Nick -
Got a new '68 Riviera ROA bud in the Hammer ( ...retired ex-Stelco type ).
Met him at our 2010 ROA meet in Hershey/Harrisburg last June, along with some other great ROA members.
What with the ROA, forums like this, and the internet, it can be a very small world indeed.
. . . enjoy that new/old '65 Riviera, and keep us posted on your progress !!
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Welcome Nick from Canada !! - where abouts ??? It's a big country.
Nice looking '65, personally I also like the look of the stock ralley wheels on 1st generation Rivs, but hey, its your car, and a beauty too !!
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. . . hey, that pic looks very familiar Jason !! LOL
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Bill,
If the car doesn't leak when it is driven regularly, it is not likely the pan gasket! As the vehicle sits, the converter drains back into the pan, and in most cases the level increases to the point where the fluid starts leaking out the o-ring around the bottom of the dip stick tube. It is a pretty easy repair.
Tightening the pan bolts will likely damage the pan gasket sealing surface of the pan by dimpling the metal around the bolt holes if you tighten them too much.
My 2 cents,
Tim
In addition, the drained converter tranny fluid can also leak past the rear extension housing oil seal. ST400s are notorious for leaking, specially when they sit for prolonged storage periods.
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Whille coil spring inserts will maintain a certain height in coil springs, they also reduce the effective action of the coils. The additional load or strain is placed on the free coils and can lead to failure. Those inserts should be removed, and have the proper shocks installed. You may also need to replace the rear coil springs if they are weak from all that trailer hauling to get that new car look and ride.
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It may have some metalic content, but you sure can't tell from the paint chart chip. Maybe check with a local body shop, or auto paint supplier to see the actual mixing code ? :confused:
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Welcome to this forum and the ROA Mark !!
Looks like you will be busy for the next while getting this true classic '65 Riviera GS back into pristine shape.
There is no shortage of capable members here, and in the ROA, to answer all those questions.
Good luck on your project !
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The bolt pattern for your '64 is 5 x 5" so the 5 x 4.5" will not fit !
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0000 steel wool will remove most deposits left on glass without harming the glass. I have also used ceramic 'glass top' stove cleaner, which is also a very mild abrasive, and will not harm the glass !
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I should add - thirty minutes with the old alternator removed !!
The toughest part of the entire re&re job was the removal of that super long pivot bolt on the lower alternator mount, as it was almost welded in place after some 40 years. Needless to say, it took quite a bit of persuasion, and the right "words" to break it loose !
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Been quite a while Erik since I converted to an internal unit after the original 42A external reg. alternator packed it in, . . . but here goes.
The replacement unit purchased was a 93A 10SI reman AC Delco unit, clocked the same position as the original alt, and I intentionally used an adapter kit to convert the wiring, to avoid any cutting/splicing of the original harness (...should the need arise to make it 'original'), and the convenience of a simple 'plug 'n play' conversion.
The kit consisted of two wiring adapters, one prewired connector that plugged into the external regulator (...after removing the original connector), and the other plugged into the end of the engine harness and had a two wire plug for the reman 10SI alt. The whole process took about thirty minutes, and that included adjusting the belt on the new reman alternator. It maintains an 'original' appearance with the old wires tucked out of view, and there is no more dimming of the lights for those night driving excursions !
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. . . also some good reading here: Catalog
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. . . good advice Pete !!
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Good to know 'mission' accomplished ! Did you use the flaring tool to hold the line, or was it even needed ? :confused:
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I have had some success using a flaring tool to clamp the line as close to the fitting as possible, to prevent the line from twisting when your attempting to turn the fittings to remove the lines.
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I think I remember seeing that exact same car before ?
. . . yah done good Dale !!
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Gotta luv those 2nd generation cars !!
Great pics, looks like they did a fantastic job on your '67.
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. . . nice capture !! TB's are a tad small though.
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. . . you just never stop learning about these cars !!
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FYI: lemmy-67
Not to hijack this thread, but to further enhance your knowledge of Rivieras.
'68 was the first year for the disc brake option !
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Like I said Lou, we revisited the meet through your great digital images.
Thanks so much for sharing, and for fond memories !
Randy 'n Mary
. . . the photographer napping, or in action ?
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Years ago Ed, we used to try that on motorcycles, and it worked much better with a big Greyhound bus, rather than a semi. The buses were built much lower to the ground and it was a lot easier to find the sweet spot, but you could never tell when that big sucker was stopping or slowing down ! :eek:
. . . I hear yah on the gas guage Jason !
Most desirable colors on a 65 Riv
in Buick Riviera
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Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and different strokes for different folks !! Your car, and your choice of colour(s). While its always preferable to keep it as original as possible, if you don't like it, why bother? Chances are, you are going to live with that colour choice for quite some time to come, so why not make it one that you will enjoy ! (... jmho.)