68RIVGS
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Posts posted by 68RIVGS
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. . . check your '64 Buick Shop Manual Darren, all that info is in the "book" !!
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An excellent feature article - a 'must have' for any 2nd gen. Riviera owner !!
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Welcome Riviera Swede, and congratulations on your first post - beautiful '65, a true 'classic' !!
That looks just like the frozen north here in Canada, about 5 months of the year.
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. . . just replace the existing flasher unit with another flasher, and see what results ??
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Rear quarter glass trim is usually held in place with a rubberized 'felt' strip that is inserted between the metal channel and the glass. The trim is a friction fit, and any access window 'felt' material that covers the glass is simply trimmed flush to the edge of the trim.
Check your local auto glass shop as a possible source for the window 'felt'.
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You might also consider a higher output alternator, which sould make a difference when all the electrics are turned on.
Corroded, or poor connections anywhere, in any electrical circuit, ground or positive, will impede electrical performance, as Jason so aptly stated.
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. . . life in the fast lane Barry, TFS !!
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. . . was that this one - the CL listing is removed, musta sold it !!
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Welcome to the ROA, and the wonderful world of Riviera Mark !!
There are absolutely no 'secrets' in the ROA - just a friendly group with a common interest,
and the motto: "Share the Pride"
Randy
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So many of the readily available chrome cleaners and polishes specifically recommend that they should NOT be used on chromed plastic parts, which so much of the trim pieces on modern vehicles are, as opposed to the chromed steel components of yesteryear. So what could be recommend for chromed plastic trim?
Most of the chrome cleaners mentioned above contain a certain amount of fine abrasives - these abrasives will easily wear through the thin vacuum chrome plating on modern plastic parts and destroy the finish. So just plain old soap 'n water, or a non-abrasive cleaner should be used on chromed, painted, or faux wood grain plastic trim pieces to minimize the chances of permanently damaging the finish.
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Jeff's website is great, and just loaded with a lot of 2nd gen.'Buick Riviera' info and tips, based on actual experience !!
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Here's what ActiveX is and does:
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I use a product called 'AUTOSOL', Metal Polish - made in Germany and comes in a tube like toothpaste.
It will work wonders on chrome, brass, copper, nickle. stainless steel, or any other surface you want to apply it to.
I discovered this product at a motor cycle shop about 30 years ago, and swear by it !!
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. . . maybe this will help solve the problem for '65 clamshell drivers ?
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Did you check on 'evilBay' Jim ?
These items are usually readily available from cars that are being parted out.
1968 68 69 70 Buick Riviera Power Antenna Part Parts Other Makes | eBay
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. . . try replacing the old flasher with another working flasher unit ???
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Most tailite sockets are' keyed' to correspond to the openings in the housing, and they simply turn, or twist to lock in place.
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Make certain the dim tail light housing has a good chassis ground. Dim or non functioning bulbs are often just the result of a poor, or corroded ground connections.
Just run an additional ground wire to the unit housing to see if this solves the problem.
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. . . now you can own it, and ditch those Chevy hub caps !!
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Mike Tromm also makes repro stickers for later models - just click on the left colume for samples, from Ed's link.
They are as close to the originals that you will ever see - Mike hangs out at v8buick, and has done a lot of these for members there !!
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'68 and '69 are 'kissing cousins', with identical front fenders Steve !
There are some '68 and 69 fenders being parted out on 'evilBay', not sure of the exact condition though.
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. . . guess the buyer changed his/her mind, it's back again - same seller, same BIN price !!
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. . . a bunch of dem, dere Rivieras, eh ?
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Welcome to the ROA section of the AACA forum, and your very first post. !!
Before you start dismantling the car, make sure the engine is not siezed after sitting for 20 years - you can spray a little oil in each cylinder through the spark plug holes to free up the rings and lube the cylinders, allow sufficient time for the oil to penatrate the rings, and instal new plugs - check all the fluid levels, put some fresh gas in it, and with a fresh battery, see if it will start - a little fresh gas, or starter fluid down the carb may help.
If it starts, your in luck - if it doesn't start, you will have to diagnose what the problem is.
On '69' Rivs there is an access plate in the trunk, which will allow you to remove the electric fuel pump without dropping the tank.
You can test the pump by disconnecting the fuel line at the carb, and turn the ignition key to the 'ON' position, make sure you have a container at the open end of the fuel line ! I don't know if OEM style pumps are available, but I'm sure someone here will know.
Investing in a '69 Riviera Shop Manual (...hard copy or CD version), is probably the best purchase you will make in restoring the car, and is a valuable source of information which will provide the answers to some of your questions.
Becomming a member of the ROA will also get a lot of your questions answered - check out the Riviera Owners Association (ROA) site at www.rivowners.org
A name, and location would also be nice - as we are a 'friendly' group here.
Good luck with your 'FREE' car !!
Transmission Mount for '65 Riviera
in Buick Riviera
Posted · Edited by 68RIVGS (see edit history)
All 2nd gen. Rivieras could use this mount by adding a centre hole to the transmission cross member too.
- great pics Ron !!
There was a recent thread on v8buick concerning two bolt 'after market' transmission mounts made of 'chineesium' - when tightening the mount bolts, one of the mounting nuts started to spin freely in the rubber portion of the mount
- not exactly what's needed.