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68RIVGS

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Posts posted by 68RIVGS

  1. Good guess, 2" dia hole for a centre cap, and no hub centering ring on the backside !!

    They look to be in pretty decent shape paint, and chrome wise, from the pic you posted - you shouldn't have any problem finding a new owner if they are all in the same condition.

  2. The aluminum rocker panels on second generation Riviera are probably very similar, and the original finish was a black anodize which faded with time and exposure to road grime, UV exposure over the years. That is probably the reason why you can find many colour variations in the surviving rocker panel mouldings from the various years.

    I had the original rockers on my '68 powder coated with a flat black paint finish that very closely resembled the original black anodized finish found on the originals.

    They have stood the test of time quite well over the past 25+ years, and still look just as good as new !!

    I would strongly recommend going to a painted finish to match the original look - besides once those rockers are mounted down low on the car, you hardly see them.

    The paint finish is also very easy to repair, if need be, from stone chips, shoe scuff marks or any road rash you might incur in your travels.

    A rattle can is probably another one of man's best friends !!

  3. Tooth paste is a very mild abrasive that will leave small scratches !

    Plain old soap 'n water with a tooth brush, or small finger nail scrub brush will render the interior of the lens spotless like brandy new.

    Plastic polish on the outer surface of the lens will remove hairline scratches and dirt deposits to improve the visual appearance of the lens as Dan stated.

    While your at it, replace any crushed or worn foam gaskets to reduce potential water damage, or dust leaks.

    A chrome silver, or white spray paint from a rattle can is a very quick 'n easy way to refinish the interior surface of any lamp housing,

    without the muss 'n fuss of cutting and applying the chrome tape, unless your retired, and into a make-work project !!

  4. There is also an inexpensive wiring conversion kit available that you connect to the external regulator, so you don't have to hack, splice, or cut the original wiring harness.

    Your dash light will still function, and the adapter can be hidden under the wiring harness to maintain an original/stock appearance !

  5. Rather than repainting those inserts, you can also get some black vinyl trim strips 'custom pre-cut' to the correct size at a local sign shop, and use them to refurbish the painted areas.

    I did this on my '68 many, many moons ago, to repair the lower black painted insert in the chrome moulding that runs the full length of the car.

    It looks as good now, as the day it was installed, with absolutely no fading, chipping, or any road rash !!

  6. There is no easy way to get in there - small hands and being a midget with double joints will make the job easier. Remove your watch, and any jewelry.

    Lay on your back, with as much of your head up and behind the dash, along with a good light source to see what your up against - a pillow will help to support your neck !

    Be sure you reinstall the switch lighting harness ground washer (...if a '67 has one), I'm going by my '68 which has a plastic dash panel insert and the ground washer gets sandwiched between the metal switch housing and plastic screw in retainer. The parking brake bracket was also directly below the headlight switch as an added obstacle to work around.

    A 'PITA' job for sure !!

  7. Intermittent, or non-operating power window problems can also be caused by broken, or fractured wiring inside the door rubber conduit sleeves.

    The pw wiring harness gets brittle with age (...just like people), and can break, or fracture from the constant flexing from the opening, and closing of the drivers door.

    This can cause intermittent, or non-operation of any window from the master switch. Poor chassis ground at any of the power window motors can also cause non-operation too.

    Start by checking for +12V DC at the master switch, and proceed from there.

  8. I think I figured it out. Transmission guy I know just happened to stop next door, and I grabbed him!! How about that!!

    Apart from grabbing him, is there an end to this story that you can share ???

  9. . . . or you can also use a black, rubberized, rocker panel stone guard available in rattle cans, or applied with a 'shutz' gun.

    Not exactly stock, but makes for a clean 'durable' finish, as opposed to gloss black paint, and also adds some sound deadening capabilities to the flat metal panels.

    Most of the trunk area is covered by card board inserts, and specific pattern fabric mats as Ed stated.

    Be very careful with the overspray if you use this as a finish - don't ask me how I know !!

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