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68RIVGS

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Posts posted by 68RIVGS

  1. When the '95's were introduced to the Zone people, a few BCA and ROA guys here from the KC area helped display the new '95 and chauffeured Zone 6 big wigs to and from the airport. For our contribution, each "helper" was given one of these books. I donated mine to the ROA library a few years ago.

    Ed

    . . . nice Ed, thanks for the update !!

  2. I purchased one of these on 'evilBay' quite a while ago Lamar, it was primarily intended as a very elaborate media promotion piece, introducing the all new 1995 Buick Riviera.

    Not sure how scarce these really are either, but at the 'buy it now' price of $25.00 it's a steal for any Riviera literature collector !

    Tom Mooney . . . is there one of these in the ROA Library collection - if not, this would be a good opportunity to add one !!

  3. Certainly looks like the remnants of some sort of a broadcast or build sheet.

    I recall getting all excited about finding a build sheet for a mid '70s Pontiac Parisienne I owned, tucked into the springs under the lower rear seat.

    The excitement ended abruptly, as further investigation revealed a different VIN number on the sheet, but it was a build sheet, albeit for a different Pontiac Parisienne.

    . . . it was very similar to the remnant Nick posted !!

  4. Very nice job Stavros - assume you used your original panel for a template. A heavy, clear plastic splash shield will protect the backside of the panel, and minimize moisture damage. The original backer material was prone to warping from water damage !

    I used a similar treatment for my original rear cardboard sail panels which were badly warped from water leaks.

    I used tempered 1/8" masonite, and utilized the original for templates. They are held in place with the rear courtesy lamp housings and the lower chrome package shelf trim strips. They have weathered the test of time quite nicely some 25+ years later.

  5. The same part is probably used in other GM makes - all you need is the correct GM part number (...from a '67 Riviera Parts Manual ?), so you can verify what year(s) and models use the same part via a Hollander interchange reference manual. You might also source a good 'used' part from a parts car via a 'used parts' request on this forum, or other similar Buick forums.

  6. Not that it matters Stavros, but per your door photos, the car appears to have '69 door pull strap escutcheons (covers with an 'R' logo) - the '68s had a matching script style design embossed on both front and rear covers. The '69 escutcheons were plain satin silver on the rear escutcheon, and the 'R' logo went on the front one. '68-'69 Riviera are 'close cousins' and the escutcheons are interchangeable, as were many other parts from those specific model years !

  7. Wonderful story with a happy ending, and a very nice 2nd generation car - but you know I'm a little partial to those '68s.

    . . . enjoy Stavros, and good fortune with your newly acquired purchase !!

  8. I believe that Buick and GM have more important things to worry about than someone reproducing an emblem for their car's

    console that they quit making 50 years ago for a car model they quit making 16 years ago. Their legal department is too busy processing

    ten million dollar claims for ignition switch related deaths to worry about a hobbyist making a couple of dash emblems.

    Believe whatever you want Winston, my intention was just to make you aware of the legalities of using material that is legally owned by someone else !!

    • Like 1
  9. Not to put a damper on your project, but . . . just saying:

    Be very careful when utilizing copyrighted material, (...logos, or logo type), - a corporation or an individual entity has invested a lot of time and money to control the use of their material and ensure that it will not be used improperly. Some form of permission is usually required to utilize copyrighted material, or a facsimile of the copyrighted material, no matter what the intended use of the copyrighted material might be !!

  10. You usually are always better off having your original bumper re-chromed, assuming it is in repairable condition.

    The problem with a replacement - you don't really know the previous condition, or how badly damaged it might have been prior to repair and re-chroming.

    It really doesn't take much to render a stamped steel Riviera bumper useless in terms of proper fit.

  11. Most clock failures are usually the result of corroded, burned or pitted contact points on the +12 V DC electrical rewind mechanism of the clock.

    They are a pretty simple electro-mechanical device, once you have taken one of them apart to see how they tick !!

  12. On '68 models there was a cardboard, or fibre board filler in the metal channel behind the rear door frame pillar flange, and the windlace was tack nailed to that insert, similar to the tacking strips for the front and rear portions of a headliner. As my original fibreboard inserts were in decent shape, I reused them after gluing them into position, and simply stapled the windlace into position, as the rear quarter filler panel pieces covered the flat tacking strip on the the windlace, once they were secured via the pointed brads in the metal edge of the rear quarter panel filler.panel, as Seafoam'65 stated. Also, in '68 there wasn't any windlace used on the front of the door openings as the kick panel pieces were molded out of solid plastic, which was a much better way of finishing the forward portion of the door opening.

  13. If your going to invest in a '68/'69 Riviera, then get one with all the options you want !

    Ed's CL pick is a rare '68 GS with most of the bells 'n whistles, with a few new parts at a reasonable price, but it does need some TLC and some fixen up to be a keeper.

    It even has the vacuum door lock option, but that dull Inca Silver Mist, and faded Black vinyl top has to go.

    Depending on the overall body 'rust' situation, and final price, it might be just what your looking for - keep us posted !!

  14. Hard, stubborn water spots can be removed with claying and some elbow grease, or they can also be removed with #0000 steel wool - use a little soap and water solution to lube the glass, and prevent scratching. It will also clean and remove any over spray, bug stains, or road film off the auto glass. Any good quality wax will restore a nice brilliant shine that will keep it looking clean and shiny !!

  15. The steel panel is intentionally machine embossed to simulate the vinyl pattern, so it should match the finish on the new vinyl top your getting Frank, usually a semi gloss finish will match the vinyl closer than a dull flat finish. '68 or '69 Rivieras without the vinyl roof option did not have the 'faux embossed' pattern on that rear panel, and they were void of any "T" clip studs for mounting the additional stainless trim found on vinyl topped cars.

  16. I like Ed's velcro approach - makes for relatively easy future removal (...if need be), for fitting, farting 'n fiddling. LOL

    Certain types of glue, or spray adhesives might be OK, but they are usually permanent.

    Construction adhesive like Lepages PL Premium, a 100% polyurethane would also fall into that catagory

    If you are selling the car, and don't plan on removing it again, glue or a spray adhesive would do the job without any screws !

  17. I think maybe it's held in by 'gravity' ???

    Usually the rear window lower moulding, rear seat and sail panel secure them in place, at least that's how it is on my '68, in addition to some special friction, screw type fastners in the plastic package tray. A '64 Fisher Body Manual should provide the correct information about securing the '64 package tray.

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