Rusty_OToole

I am thinking the excess smoke might be from gummed up or frozen rings. In that case heavy oil will only make it worse, light oil might free them up.

I knew another old timer who took 2 Willys Knights on a trade in back in the thirties. One would not run right, it was down on power, he suspected a clogged exhaust from oil smoke. He sold it cheap to a guy who rammed a crowbar up the tailpipe and drove off with no more problem. Not that I am suggesting you do that. My friend took the exhaust off the other car and burned it out with oxygen. It restored the power without damaging anything.

I would go along with using low octane gas in a low compression car but not the cheap oil. There may be a more modern oil that will work better than what they had in the thirties and especially, preserve the engine from wear. My guess would be to take off the pan and clean out the sludge then use Shell Rotella 15W4O but that is only a guess. The main concern should be to preserve the engine because they are almost imossible to rebuild. On the other hand, given reasonable care and regular oil changes it should run over 1OO.OOO miles and I have heard of sleeve valve bus and truck engines going 3OO,OOO.

Knight engines are supposed to burn oil. I have seen newsreels of the Royals in the thirties riding in their Daimler limousine with a plume of smoke out the tailpipe. Daimler featured Knight sleeve valve engines in those days. I knew an old time antique car owner who used a Willys Knight 4 cylinder car from the mid twenties as a tour car in the sixties and seventies. He told me when he started off in the morning it would burn a quart of oil in the first sixty miles. After that, nothing. Next day, same thing, starting from cold it would burn a quart in sixty miles then no more for the rest of the day. It seems they take a long time to warm up. As to what kind of oil to use I would consult the Willys Knight experts. Or go by what the factory recommended.

A good auto supply store should be able to look u the master cylinder by the part number. I have seen old brake catalogs with pictures of the various cylinders. They were not identified by car make or model, but by Wagner part #.

The weight is supposed to be held by the spring. If the spring is missing it will rattle around which makes an annoying noise. The cure is to wire it open so it cant rattle. When the valve is closed (cold] the hot exhaust is diverted against the bottom of the intake to warm it and vaporize the cold fuel. As the engine warms the spring relaxes allowing the valve to open and the exhaust to go out unimpeded. If a car sits for a long time the valve can rust shut in the cold position. The best thing to do is fix it the way the factory intended. It will make a significant difference in the way your car runs when it is warming up.

purpose made by a guy with a disc grinder. Likely an auto body repair man.

Did they call or email the comany headquarters. The info is available if they ask. If they dont know enough to ask, try another paint dealer.

Your favorite local auto paint store. Given the original name and number they can get the formula from the head office in a few hours or at most, within a day or 2.

It looks to me like something made up in the late fifties for a custom car. Guys would buy bullets, drawer knobs, spinners etc and bolt them to their hubcaps, this was before mag wheels came in.

We were talking about early crank start cars that are made to be started by turning the end of the crankshaft.

If the tanks are otherwise the same, a good radiator shop can swap the filler pipes for you.

Off the top of my head, wonder if anyone has thought of taking one of those new battery powered impact wrenches and adapting it to start a car in place of the crank. It would not alter the originality of the car but might spare the old guys a few heart attacks.

Do you mean $8OO to $2OOO for a single casting or for a mold. It appears a plastic model or pattern can be made in minutes. Could this be done with lost foam casting using a computer made foam pattern.

Very cool, here is Leno doing a demo. YouTube - ‪NextEngine 3D Scanner at Jay Leno's Garage‬‏

The one the idle didnt change on is a likely suspect. A compression test will tell the tale. Are you sure the plug is sparking It could be something as simple as a bad plug wire.

There was an interview with 2 of Packards top brass published in popular Mechanics in the early fifties. In it they commented on the latest cars they had examined and driven on a fact finding trip to Europe. They were dismissive of the Bentley saying it did not compare to Packards cheapest model and they felt the MG had a noisy muffler. All in all they did not find any foreign designs worth emulating.

Spark plug gap .O35 for all 49 Chryslers.

Keeps out the rain. Not so much the stamping technology as the lack of steel wide enough. The steel mills did not produce the new wide sheet metal until 1934.

Sounds like a miss to me. With the engine running pull the plug wires off one at a time. When you get one that does not make it run worse, that one has a miss. Check if the plugs are firing. If it is not a misfire it may be a bad cylinder. DO a compression test to find out. That is if the miss is regular and always the same cylinders. Might just be time for a tuneup. If you are old enough to miss Ed Sullivan you know what a tuneup is ha ha

Do a search for Vintage power Wagons the leading experts on the model. They have all the parts you need.

Will they let you return the ones you dont need. If not find another store.

Knew an old timer who built a model T hot rod when he was a kid in the 2Os. He couldnt afford tires so he got used ones, usually off the junk pile in back of garages, they would be stiff and hard so he would soak them in a pond for a few days. If he had no tubes he would stuff the tires with hay, he could drive around until a tire went flying off the rim and whizzed into the ditch lol. Maybe soaking the tires in water will help. If you have good tubes and inflate them they may even stay on the rims lol.

Have seen pictures of sedans with removable door posts, they were modified for use as ambulances. In that case I would think the interior would be modified to suit. Your car seems to have a standard interior So the theory that the original owner of your car needed wheelchair access looks likely.

The Carter E7L4 is the correct model for your car. It is called a Carter Ball & Ball or B&B type carburetor. It was made for many years in different versions for different cars. If you examine it carefully you should see the 2 electrical switches. The best thing for your car would be to rebuild this carburetor or buy a replacement. Easiest would be to buy a rebuilt from the US. Use the old wiring if it is in good condition. Usually the wires in the engine compartment wear out first. The heat dries out the rubber insulation until it cracks and falls off. You can repair any bad spots with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape, or replace the bad wires. The square box on the air cleaner support is for the transmission wiring. It contains the resistor and circuit breaker. If you clean it off you should see that the terminals are marked. At the top should be Ign and Int. Ign stands for Ignition, this terminal connects to the coils positive terminal. Int stands for interrupter, it connects to the carburetor and to the interrupter switch on the transmission. Below those should be Bat and Sol. Bat connects to the coils negative terminal. Sol connects to the Solenoid on the transmission. Refer to the diagram above for more details. If you wish to connect a manual switch you will have to run a long wire from the passenger compartment into the engine compartment and connect it to the carburetor switch wire. 1 wire to the switch wire, the other wire from the switch to ground. This will allow you to control the high to low shift manually. Just press the button when you wish to shift. I am told the transmission will shift up without the switch but will not shift down. You will have to experiment and find this out. If you know a mechanic or electrician, see if you can get some help. The transmission system is unusual and not easy to understand but if you just put everything back the way the factory made it, it should work grand for you. I would also strongly recommend that you buy a repair manual. They turn up on Ebay regularly. The factory made enough for every dealership and there are still a lot of them around. Usual price from $2O for a reprint to $5O for an original. Well worth it for the time and money it will save. The rattle noise may be from the shift mechanism or some other part under the car. One of us should have a look. You are closer than I am.