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MCHinson

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Posts posted by MCHinson

    Show cars in the MUD!!

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    While it does appear close to John Deere green....

    If you take it too seriously (like I do <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />)...

    It is Balsam Green Body, Valley Green Belt and Moulding, and Cream Wheels..... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

    But I guess you could call it John Deere Green if you want to (the Cream wheels sure look yellow even though they are actually the correct color......) <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

    Show cars in the MUD!!

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Hey Novaman.... I'm OK with the Mustang Jokes but you are treading on thin ice with me on the Model A Jokes. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

    Check out the cover story from the Last NC Region News and(even though my name was mispelled), you will see why I have to come to the defense of the Model A.

    http://local.aaca.org/northcarolina/Regi...%20Sept-Oct.pdf

    You know why they couldn't sell Nova's south of the border don't you? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

    Top door hinge removal?

    in Model A

    Posted

    I have previously had good luck with a solvent called PB Blaster or PB Penetrating Catalyst. In my experience it is one of the best products to soak those hinge pins with prior to removing them. I used it to get all of the hinge pins out of a 1931 Town Sedan a couple of years ago. This is their webpage, but I always buy it at Wal-Mart. web page

    No Spark - Advice Needed

    in Model A

    Posted

    Les Andrews is probably about the best expert on this issue so...

    I took the liberty of stealing this from the Model A Ford Club Website's technical Q & A Page:

    Answer:

    Sounds like you have a problem in the ignition circuit. Here are the checks to make:

    Yellow wire connected from post on starter switch to terminal box post (post on passenger side of terminal box).

    Ammeter (-) side connects to passenger side post on terminal box.

    Ammeter (+) side connects to driver side post on terminal box.

    Black wire connects from driver side post on terminal box to coil (-) terminal.

    Red wire connects from coil (+) terminal to ignition switch.

    Yellow/Black wire also connects from driver side terminal box post to the cut out terminal. That completes the ignition wiring except for the ignition cable and distributor plate.

    Here is a voltage check of the circuit:

    Connect the (+) side of your volt meter to a good ground point on the engine or frame.

    Touch the (-) probe to the passenger side terminal box wing nut. Read 6 volts.

    Touch the probe to the driver side terminal box wing nut. Read 6 volts.

    Touch the probe to the (-) terminal on coil. Read 6 volts.

    Touch the probe to the (+) terminal on coil. Read 6 volts.

    Place a piece of paper between the point contacts.

    NOW TURN IGNITION KEY ON.

    Touch the probe to the end of the points arm, read 6 volts.

    Remove paper between points. Open and close points and look for spark each time points open, (no spark means bad condenser, replace condenser).

    . If points are sparking then disconnect the coil center (high tension wire) from the distributor cap (leave connected at distributor end). Place the free end of the coil wire about 1/8" from one of the engine head nuts. Crank the engine over with the ignition key on. There should be a bright blue arc from the coil wire to the nut (ground point). No arc means bad coil.

    Having said all of that, there are several things to check for. New condensers can go bad and new coils can go bad. But I would first look for something that may be shorting the circuit or causing an open in the circuit. Some of the other things to check are: Bad Ammeter. If ammeter has open circuit, all voltage is lost to the coil. You probably burned the wiring up because of loose connections on the back of the ammeter, or missing rubber grommet through center of terminal box, causing the ignition cable to short against terminal box posts, causing large current draw to burn wires. Do not screw ignition cable into the distributor too far. It can short out if screwed in too far. Make sure all nuts on the terminal box posts are tight. Also the two rivets on the bottom distributor plate sometimes get loose (especially on the reproduction plate) and short out the bracket it attaches. -- Les Andrews, 1998 Technical Director

    Hope it helps!

    Making paint look old and worn

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Movie crews do this all the time. I would suggest that you contact Screen Gems Studios (which is the largest studio on the East Coast), telephone number 910-343-3500, and ask to speak with either some local picture car people or some props people and they should be able to tell you how they do it. I think it will most likely include brushing on a special "grime" formula over a decent paint job.

    This link should also have a number of movie paint people who might be able to tell you how they do it:

    http://www.wilmington-film.com/crew_results_category.asp?CategoryID=23&Submit=View+Listings

    If you have trouble getting any answers from them, let me know. Being local and carrying a badge, I know how to make them talk... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

    Did anyone hear it was raining in Virginia?

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    You have the right basic idea there with the generator. Haven't needed it since about 1997 but, it is nice to have. I had an electrician hook up a connection for me to plug the generator into. I just have to turn off the main breakers (which connect you to the power company's grid) and then the generator supplies power to the other items. You should probably have an electician do this for you to make sure it is done safely. They do make specific sort of pricey connections for generators that make it impossible for you to have both the main breakers and the generator on at the same time. That helps you avoid needing the "Hershey bars, graham crackers and marshmallows". Also, remember the generator is much smaller than the power company's source, so you probably won't be able to power everything you want to power at the same time.

    I recommend using a professional electrician to keep it safe!

    Did anyone hear it was raining in Virginia?

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Glad to see that we left some rain for you. We got 11 inches here when Ernesto came ashore in Southeastern NC. It was loads of fun watching local drivers turn their cars into boats. The wrecker guys had lots of fun. My Crown Victoria Police Interceptor managed to get me everywhere I needed to go without any problems. As long as you know which streets have cars floating, you can drive around the the low areas using adjacent streets.

    Cigar Lighter Model A acessory?

    in What is it?

    Posted

    While I have no idea if this is it or not, There was a Model A Accessory Cigar Lighter. It was Part number A-18527, which originally sold for the lofty sum of 75 cents. I also think that I have read something about a cigar lighter in the Model A Town Car. If memory serves me correctly, it was not made by Ford and I think it was made by Casco. I think it mounted in the rear passenger compartment somewhere on or near the armrest and is a much desired often difficult to find item to complete a restoration of a Model A Town Car. Someone who has a Model A Town Car could answer that question.

    1927 Model T Touring Car

    in Model T (and older)

    Posted

    I have no idea how much what you have is worth. Where are you located? I am a Model A guy, but would love to take on the challenge of a Model T sometime. I would recommend that you contact some local AACA Region or Chapter members in your area and depend on their expertise. Somebody near you who knows something about Model T's can take a look at what you have and give you some good advice. Good luck.

    Me and my Model A Ford (and previous Antiques)

    in Our Cars & Restoration Projects

    Posted

    I have always been fond of old things and especially old cars. Maybe it has something to do with being the son of parents who lived through the Great Depression. I was born in 1960, in Whiteville NC, and my first car when I got my driver?s license was a 1961 Cadillac. OK, it was a 1961 Cadillac Hearse, so the car?s age was not the primary thing that drew attention to it. We had a lot of fun with the hearse. After a couple of years, I had to get rid of the hearse. While nobody said anything, somehow I don?t think the ?old school? members of Whiteville Rescue Unit would have voted in a hearse driving member. Even though it was previously owned by Clarkton Rescue and used as a backup ambulance, somehow I don?t think that it would have looked too nice driving up to a rescue scene in a hearse and jumping out to help the injured.

    In 1980, I joined the Whiteville Police Department. About 1981, while working as a night shift police officer, I discovered two old Buicks parked on the back lot of Harold Wells? car wash on Walter Street. Mr. Wells was also the local Oldsmobile and GMC Truck Dealer at the time. He later owned even more Automotive Franchises in Whiteville.

    Anybody who has worked as a night shift police officer can tell you that sometimes you have to get out of the car and walk around on slow nights for a few minutes to stay awake. My favorite place for my occasional sleepy strolls was around those old Buicks. If memory serves me correctly, one was a 1938 trunk back Sedan and the other was a 1939 Sedan. I now know that the 1939 is normally considered a more collectible car than the earlier 1938 style, but I liked the vertical grill style of the earlier car. I tried to talk Mr. Wells into selling me the car, but he was not interested in selling. It probably was good that I did not get it, as I would have had very little idea how to go about restoring the car at that time.

    I have not owned a 1938 Buick yet, but one day I probably will. I wonder what ever happened to the one that Mr. Wells had? A few years ago, I saw the rusting hulk of the 1939 Buick behind a Highway 130 car dealership that Mr. Wells had subsequently bought and sold since I had first seen the old Buicks downtown.

    In 1984 I left Whiteville for greener pastures working for the City of Wilmington Police Department. I got married in 1986 and about ten years later, I got ready to buy my first old car. I did not know much about old cars but my research convinced me that I should start with a Model A Ford. The Model A is a very easy car to work on and parts are easy to locate. I met a great old car guy, ?Pierre?, who rented movie cars here in Wilmington. Pierre had a large number of old cars both in Wilmington and in Michigan. From time to time Pierre sold cars. I told him that I wanted a four door Model A Ford, and that I wanted any color but green. One day, Pierre called me and told me that he had a car for me to look at on a trailer that would be in town in a few hours. My wife and I went to see the car. I pulled in to the parking lot and noticed that the trailer had a Green 1931 Model A Ford and a beautiful Blue 1930 Hupmobile on it. Apparently Pierre remembered the ?Green? but not the ?Any color but? part of our conversation. Pierre told me that I could have either the Model A or the Hupmobile, for the same price that he had quoted me. I started thinking long and hard about that one. My wife, Beverly, who up to this point wanted nothing to do with antique cars said, ?Why don?t you buy them both!? I probably should have taken her up on that offer! I had this immense fear of trying to restore the Hupmobile and finding that I could not get some necessary part so I stuck to my original plan (except for the color). The first antique automobile that I bought was thus a 1931 Briggs Body Model A Ford Town Sedan. When I first bought it, I had a very enlightening experience driving it home. It was starting to get dark. Most of the lights did not work, the brakes were barely existent, and the steering gear had a lot of loose play in it. I picked the car up and thankfully I made it home without hitting anything or getting hit. I soon began the work that made it safe to drive. It was not in as good a shape as this photo makes it appear. I took this photo a short time before I sold it. It took quite a bit of work to get it looking this good.

    1931 Ford Model A Town Sedan

    In 1997, I traveled to Colorado and purchased my next antique auto. I guess I was missing the old Hearse, so I bought the closest thing, a 1965 Cadillac Fleetwood Limousine. We brought the limousine back to Wilmington from Fort Collins, Colorado on a towbar behind a 1996 Suburban. It was a once in a lifetime trip, but I can laugh about it now. It was an interesting vacation, but I will leave that for another story! This is a scanned version of an old snapshot taken on the side of the road shortly after we left Fort Collins.

    1965 Cadillac Limousine

    In 1999, The Cadillac was totaled when a tree fell on it during a hurricane. The insurance payment enabled me to expand my garage so that I now have a garage deep enough to park both a Model A and a Cadillac Limousine, back to back, should I decide to buy another Cadillac (or a 1938 Buick).

    Eventually, In 2001, I decided to do a full frame off restoration of the Town Sedan. I could not bear the thought of not having a Model A to drive, so I began the search for another Model A to drive while I restored the Town Sedan. I ended up finding a 1930 Deluxe Coupe that had been restored by the recently deceased Norbert Hayes, a fellow member of the Cape Fear Chapter. This photo shows the Coupe. After buying the coupe, I decided to freshen up the restoration and correct a few things that had not been done quite to my satisfaction. About a year later, I realized that I had almost totally re-restored the Coupe and still had not done anything with the Town Sedan. I ended up selling the Town Sedan to a nice young couple in Virginia and my family was content with the Coupe for a while. My then 3 year old daughter, Maryellen, especially liked riding in the rumble seat. Since she was not tall enough to step onto the bumper step plate and then onto the fender step plate, she developed a technique of climbing onto the running board, grabbing the edge of the rumble seat opening, crawling up the fender, and climbing into the rumble seat. The first time she did this resulted in a slight scratch on the right rear fender. After a few times, I finally figured out that since the paint was not quite as good as it should have been anyway, all of the scratches on the fender really did not matter. The smile on my daughter?s face was worth putting up with the scratched up paint.

    1930 Ford Model A Deluxe Rumble Seat Coupe

    As luck would have it, finances eventually dictated that I divest myself of my antique car. I sold the coupe, used the money to pay off some high interest loans and soon thereafter, I began the search for my next antique automobile. In 2003, I stumbled across a 1964 Model Ford Truck while searching Ebay for my next Model A Ford. I liked the fact that the truck was similar to one that my brother Steve had owned when I was a young boy hanging around his shop. I bought it. This photo shows the truck when I first brought it home. It is sort of sad looking, but it is a good dependable original ?driver? of a truck.

    1964 Ford F100

    I don?t think my daughter ever really got over wanting another Model A, and I know that I had to have another one. As luck would have it, I reached the point in time that I was ready to buy another Model A. I had decided that I wanted a 1930 or 1931 Phaeton. I searched for a while but just could not seem to find the car that I wanted. After making an announcement at a Cape Fear Chapter meeting about what I was looking for, David Smith, a new Cape Fear Chapter member, told me of a guy who had a Model A Phaeton for sale locally. David had bought a 1930 Model A Coupe from Ted Hewlett, and Ted also had a Phaeton for sale. It turned out that it was a 1929, instead of a 1930 or 1931, but when I saw it, I decided that it was destined to be mine. A few days later, it was mine. This car was restored in 1989. It sports a Red Bird from 1990. It ended up being stored for over 15 years until I bought it. It was dirty. It needed some detailing and the engine needed to be repainted. The steering gear turned out to need to be rebuilt, but other than that, the car needed very little work to bring it back into condition. Here is how it looks now. I somehow seem to still be buying green antique cars!

    My Current Model A - 1929 Ford Phaeton

    BRASS CARS at HERSHEY 2006

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Being the Registration person for our local chapter show, I have access to some data that I find interesting. I apologize in advance if I am boring you to death with this!

    Our Local Chapter show in 2005 included 100 cars. In 2006 we attracted 124 cars.

    The interesting part is that ALL of the additional cars were pre-1968 cars, and most of the increase was in pre-war cars. In both years we had more Model A's than Mustangs.

    Here is the breakdown from each year.

    2005 ----- 2006

    0------ 1 -1918 Dodge

    3------ 4 -Model T's

    12----- 17 -Model A's

    9------ 15 -1932 to 1942

    13----- 21 -1946 to 1956

    35----- 38 -1957 to 1967

    28----- 28 -1968 & up

    I realize from reading all of the other responses that while we are still NOT attracting the Brass cars on the local level the way we want to, at least locally, the trend is improving. We try to help our older members when needed. This does help. We also provide free food for the show participants. I realize that is probably not a viable option for National events, but obviously things like closer trailer parking for older cars is the type of idea that will help. A lot of good ideas are being suggested. I have faith that Steve and the National Directors will be able to wade through it all and continue to improve the club. I am confident that we will figure it out!

    BRASS CARS at HERSHEY 2006

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    OK, if you don't like the line:

    "If someone doesn't enjoy showing their car(s) they should sell them to someone who will."

    How about me trying to restate my intended thoughts in some different terms....

    If someone just wants to leave their brass cars (or others) in the garage gathering dust or rusting, they should consider a way to get someone else involved in the hobby so that the car could continue to be part of the hobby. Maybe that means they should be showing it, maybe it means they should be driving it. Maybe they should be participating in local historical displays, maybe they should put it in a museum, maybe they should sell it to a younger hobbyist who will be active in the hobby with the car.

    I was thinking of more than "just sell it", but was trying to keep from typing all night. I was simply trying to say that either the current owner, or some future owner, should get those brass cars back involved in the hobby. Hope that makes my intention clearer.

    BRASS CARS at HERSHEY 2006

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Not quite Brass era, but here's my story... I am 45 years old. I have been an AACA member since 1996. I am on my 3rd Model A Ford. It is a 1929 Phaeton. It is the first car that I felt worthy of showing at a National meet. I just got my First Junior at Asheville (my first national show). I will probably (got a few details to work out in the next couple of days) register my Model A to compete for my Senior Award at Hershey. For the most part, AACA members like to restore the cars of their youth. That is why, as time passes, the bulk of the cars keep getting "newer". The brass car owners, in general, have been around a while and are getting older. It is totally natural that they have more limitations on their ability to get to shows. The important thing is to remember to keep getting young guys and gals involved and keep trying to interest people in antiques of ALL ages. The Brass cars are not going away. The next generation will still have people who inherit or buy them and keep showing them. At least in this area, The Model A's seem to be getting a little bit more popular than they were a couple of years ago. I suspect that the Brass Cars will soon follow that trend. There will always be people like me who like older cars than the "normal" cars of their youth. I don't have a Brass Car, but that doesn't mean that I wouldn't be interested if the opportunity to get one presented itself. While I like the idea about decreased fees for older cars (being the owner of a 77 year old car), I don't know if that would make a big difference or not. The registration fees are only a small part of the cost of going to a show. The bottom line is that the hobby includes all sorts of people with all sorts of cars. We need to encourage attendance at shows and other events however and whenever possible. The hobby is about showing your car(s). It is a fun and educational hobby. If someone doesn't enjoy showing their car(s) they should sell them to someone who will.

    Asheville National Meet

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Asheville was also my first National Meet. Thanks for a great job Great Smoky Mountain Region! I enjoyed meeting a lot of nice people, including Meet Chairman Dick Jones and Steve Moskowitz. I was quite happy to receive my First Junior for our 1929 Model A Ford Phaeton. I enjoyed participating in the Judging School, CJE, and Apprentice Judging. It was a busy but fun day!

    WTB enclosed trailer for Model A Ford - near Southeastern NC

    in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell

    Posted

    I am looking for a reasonably priced enclosed trailer for show travel for a 1929 Ford Model A Phaeton. I anticipate that I need something from interior size of 16 feet long up to 20 feet long. Condition does not have to be perfect, I will consider most anything. Hopefully it will be somewhere within a day's drive of Wilmington NC. matthinson@bellsouth.net

    It looks like I have located a trailer, so I am no longer in need of a trailer. Thanks for those who emailed.

    Model A Tools Judging Question

    in AACA - Class Judging

    Posted

    I am preparing for my first national show (Asheville) with a recently obtained Model A Ford. After review of the 2006 Judging manual, I have a question. At Chapter and Region Shows in the past, I have seen tools displayed in a display case with Model A's and Model T's. The Ford supplied tools originally would not have come in such a display case. How should I display the tools to make sure I don't lose any points? Should they be simply stored under the seat cushion, displayed in a display case, omitted, or what?

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