MCHinson
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Posts posted by MCHinson
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You should be fine. Worst case scenario, the changes that you have made would still make the car eligible for acceptance in AACA's DPC Class, so it is perfectly acceptable as an AACA Touring vehicle. Sign up and enjoy the tour!
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Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. I have never worked on the steering box of any of my Buicks. I have sent one to Lares Corporation and had them rebuild it. Years ago, I needed to remove the worm gear from a Model A Ford steering shaft. I took it to a machine shop and had them press the worm gear off. Personally, If I had a problem with the steering gear on a 1937, I would either have it rebuilt by Lares Corporation (which is not cheap), or else I would see if Dave Tacheny had a replacement steering assembly to swap out, which would probablyl be a lot cheaper than a rebuild. You can best reach Dave by calling 763-427-3460 between 4 and 7 pm Central.
Other than that, as you have a 1937, I would be remiss if I did not invite you to check out the 36-38 Buick Club. You will find out more about the club at: http://www.3638buickclub.org/ If you contact me via the contact the webmaster form on the club website, I will be happy to email you a free sample .pdf issue of the club newsletter.
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Bradf0rd,
Join a local chapter or region of AACA. The local folks in the club will have lots of experience with the law in Louisiana and can give you practical advice on how to proceed in obtaining a title in your state. I have some friends in Louisiana who can probably help you if you don't have a chapter or region in your immediate area. @Marty Roth on the forum can probably help you as he is a long time AACA member from Louisiana.
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I have very little knowledge about Plymouths. I am the NC Region AACA's representative on the North Carolina Department of Motor Vehicles Classification Review Committee. One of the NC DMV inspectors is attempting to get some information regarding a 1963 Plymouth Savoy to try to help the owner get it titled by the original Serial Number or VIN.
His reqest is as follows:
"I have completed a VIN verification on a 1963 Plymouth Savoy, with a VIN of 3131129771. It appears that the vehicle was restored and the original VIN was removed and put back with glue. I have located a secondary number on the radiator that is factory, however no one can tie it back to a specific vehicle.
The only reference I have is that this secondary VIN is that it is the sales order number, plus two digits indicating the year model and assembly plant.
The secondary number is 111211912. I know this is a long shot, but I am attempting to help this customer avoid having a North Carolina assigned VIN put on his car, which would decrease its value.
Is there a soruce for records or archive or any resources that could help me identify this vehicle?"
Does anybody know of any source of records to identify the original VIN from the Seconday number?
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11 hours ago, suchan said:
Looks like a '37 steering wheel to me on the BAT car. The '38's have a bend in the spokes so the horn ring is recessed and drivers could more easily avoid honking the horn unintentionally.
Unfortunate that the new upholstery pattern doesn't duplicate the original, but it does look pretty good. And it's not vinyl.
Nice car.
The HPOF car that I posted photos of for comparision has a 1938 Steering Wheel. That was what my comment was about. The steering wheel comment had nothing to do with the original car for sale.
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A few photos of an HPOF 1937 Roadmaster from a few years back to show the interior original upholstery pattern. Note, the steering wheel in this car is incorrect. It is a 1938 Steering Wheel, a fairly common change that has been made on a lot of 1937 Buicks over the years.
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Pete,
That condition of that particular Roadmaster has a lot of little things about it that I think caused a lot of potential buyers to avoid it. For example, The interior, while nice looking, is not restored in the original pattern. There are other things that a close examination of the photos will reveal. There are other 80 and 90 series Buicks that have not brought as much at various auctions over the past few years as would normally be expected, but there are others that have been sold for prices more in line with expectations. A nicely restored or nice well sorted original car will still bring more than that particular example. Yes, This era of 80 Series Buicks is recognized by CCCA as a Full Classic. You can never judge the market by just a few examples. Quality cars will still hold reasonable values. There is still a market out there for the right examples. There are still younger people out there who appreciate pre-war cars. I would not worry too much about being dinosaurs, we still have a bit of life left before we need to worry about extinction.
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Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. The answer to your question is you should call Dave Tacheny at 763-427-3460. Dave sells 1936-1941 Buick parts. You can best reach him by calling between 4 and 7 pm Central time zone. You should also scroll down to the Pre-War Buick section of the forum in the future, as you will find most Pre-War Buick experts in that section of the forum. I would also suggest you check out and consider joining the 36-38 Buick Club. You can check out the club at http://www.3638buickclub.org/. If you send me a message through the contact the webmaster link on the club site, I will also be happy to send you a sample .pdf issue of a recent club newsletter.
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Just now, Shootey said:
What solvent did you use for the brake line fittings? Thanks.
I used a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid on everything on this project.
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I would say that the award would be more likely to go to a nicely restored car based on the text describing the award, but I suspect you are likely to be correct on the basic requirement for the award. Someone from the National Awards Team would have to answer your question regarding why there was no award for 2022.
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1 hour ago, 1937hd45 said:
How does one find the definition of the "Annual Awards"? I find it hard to believe nobody showed a 1904 or earlier top flight restoration in 2022. Bob
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The 2023 Winter Rummage Box is now online:
https://aaca.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/2023_Winter_Rummage_Box.pdf
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I have purchased more than one running driving complete prewar Buick parts cars in the past few years. Both were purchased for less than this one is listed for.
Regarding Dave Tacheny, I have never seen him charge an unreasonable price for a part, and I would suspect there is a valid reason for his pricing decisions. I suspect that he was quoting that price based on high shipping cost. I can relate that a guy an hour and a half away from me needed a seat a couple of years ago. Dave told him that I had an extra seat and told him to call me, as it would have cost too much to ship a seat from his location to North Carolina. I sold the guy a seat and he came here and picked it up in person.
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If I recall correctly, that was during a discussion about why points are better than an electronic ignition conversion.
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There were sealed beam conversion kits sold back in the day for installation when people did not want to have to resilver their old reflectors. They don't look as good as the original lens. If you really want to buy one of those, I have one that I removed from one of my 1937 Buicks that I would consider selling.
There was also an old magazine article about converting to smaller sealed beam bulbs hidden behind the original lenses. I republished that in an issue of the Torque Tube II newsletter of the 36-38 Buick Club. After I return home from the AACA National Convention, I can find that article and send it to you if you are interested. Send me a PM with your email address and I can send it to you. I would also suggest you consider joining the 36-38 Buick Club, as you will find other helpful technical articles in the newsletter on a regular basis.
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There is not enough room between the front end sheet metal and the firewall for a 320 straight 8 engine. Fix what is wrong with your car and you will probably be happy with it in its stock configuration... just don't expect to drive it 70+ miles per hour for an extended time. It was not designed for that.
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On 2/6/2023 at 5:32 PM, clipperfan said:
Since freeways are a fact of life in Southern California I want to get to a comfortable 65-70 MPH
Your initial post sounded like you were expecting the car to do more than it was designed to do. Subsequent posts, make it sound like the car is difficult to get to 50 or 55 mph. While I still don't think your car should be expected to drive for long distances on freeways, which I intrepret as being roadways with speeds of 70 or more expected for extended periods of time, your car should perform better than what you seem to be experiencing. It sounds like you need to do some troubleshooting with a factory service manual and appropriate diagnostice tools, or else hire an experienced antique car mechanic to check out the car and resolve the performance issues so that the car will perform as it did when it was new.
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If your tires are in good condition, I would also have a competent alignment shop check your front suspension to make sure that everything is as it should be. While bias ply tires are not going to ride exactly like radials, with good bias ply tires, properly inflated, and the front suspension in good shape and properly aligned and adjusted, the car should be able to be driven comfortably on any roadway that you can comfortably drive on with radial tires. Radials do tend to mask front end problems that bias ply tires will react to negatively.
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To drive at freeway speeds for long distances, you need to either install an overdrive, change out the rear end to a 3.6 or 3.9 ratio, or else sell that car and buy a Century. You are attempting to go faster than a 1940 Buick Special was designed to run. It will not last long being pushed that hard.
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6 hours ago, Bob Kielar said:
We drove from southern Wisconsin to Louisville Kentucky for Grand Nationals with the bias ply tires it was not a pleasant drive. Now that the roads are constructed with parallel groves cut into the concrete the Cadillac wants to follow the grooves it’s a constant battle to keep the car straight.
How old are your bias ply tires? I have had very good service and drivability with reproduction bias ply tires on my 1937 Buick Century. I have driven it from North Carolina to Indiana, and from North Carolina to Ohio without any problems. I did finally wear out the bias ply tires and replaced them with a new set of bias ply and the car is still driving fine.
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3 hours ago, Bob Kielar said:
If you have the same size and look as a bias ply why the deduction?
Because that is what the rules are. They are not as the car was originally equipped. They do not look identical. If you can look at them and tell that they are not the correct tires, they will merit a deduction. If you have problems with your bias ply tires, you may want to have them checked out to see what is wrong with them. I drove my 1937 Buick Century over 125 miles on Coker reproduction bia ply tires on Saturday with no problems. The reproduction bias ply tires work just fine for me at highway speeds.
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In my experience with a 1938 Buick that had been sitting outside in the weather for 23 years in a northern environment, the best way to get those rusty bolts out is to use a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Put equal amounts in a squirt can, shake it up to mix the actone and ATF and apply it to the bolts. Let that mix soak overnight and I suspect you will find that most if not all of the bolts will come apart without breaking. That solvent is far superior to WD-40 or any other off the shelf solvent that I know of.
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I would suggest calling Dave Tacheny. He sells 1936-1941 Buick parts. He would be a likely source. You can best reach him by calling 763-427-3460 between 4 and 7 pm Central. There are a couple of businesses that can recast your existing wheel if you have one that needs recasting.
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If you want to know how to disassemble wiper towers check out this link:
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WTB thermostat housing for 1939 Buick Special
in Buick - Buy/Sell
Posted
Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. I would suggest you call Dave Tacheny. He sells 1936-1941 Buick parts from parts cars. You can best reach him by calling 763-427-3460 between 4 and 7 pm Central. I would also suggest you check out the 36-38 Buick Club. Despite the name, the club now covers all Straight 8 era Buicks. http://www.3638buickclub.org/ if you send me a message thorugh the contact the webmaster link on the 36-38 Buick Club website, I will be happy to send you a sample .pdf copy of a recent club newsletter. If you scroll down a bit to the Prewar Buick section, you will find a lot of helpful folks who specialize in this era Buicks.