MCHinson
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Posts posted by MCHinson
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Maybe this will help:
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You will enjoy reading this discussion that includes information about the 1940-1941 Jack/Jack Stand.
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I own two 1937 Buicks. I did own a 1938 Buick. I don't own a 1937 Buick jack. Neither car had one and I was never willing to spend what it would take to get a jack for display only. The jack in your photos is certainly not for 1936-1940. From memory, that looks like a 1940-1941 Jack or possibly it was only used in 1940 or 1941. It is often listed as one of the most dangerous jacks that exist. The 1937 Jack is different from the one in your photos. The 1938 Jack is totally different from the 1937 Jack and also totally different from the one in your photos. I don't have any experience with either 1936 or 1939 jacks. If I recall correctly there is a diagram in the 1937 owner's manual that shows what the jack looks like. In researching the 1937 Jack I found an interesting comment from the previous editor of the Torque Tube on the subject. It is on page 16 of the issue of the Torque Tube II in this link:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/16nxdfsBvpLJyY8ULMFBWud4eFgHbIlAd/view?usp=sharing
I will quote part of his statement, "They didn't work well, and didn't hold up the car, and broke easily, and everybody threw his out and bought something else." The rest of his statement is a bit more colorful.
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Jerry, If you can send me some better photos, I will be happy to advertise it for you in the Torque Tube II newsletter of the 36-38 Buick Club.
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Not the best photo, but hopefully this one will help.
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9 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said:
I have a 38 Buick Series 40 Business coupe in my shop. The running boards do not look right. Does anyone have any photos of what correct running boards should look like, or at least the ends. There is greater than a 1" gap between the fenders and the running boards. Thank you. Hugh
From your photos, it appears that the running boards are correct but they have been covered by some incorrect thin aftermarket rubber material. Also the running board mouldings are also not original 1938 Buick mouldings.
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The engine number indicates that it could be a 1937 40 series 248 engine. A photo would help confirm.
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Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. The answer is likely depend on if your car is a Fisher bodied car or a Holden bodied car. Do you have a photo of the sun visor bracket that you need? Also, there is a huge pre-war Buick group of guys who typically hang out in the Pre-War Buick forum. If you scroll down to the Pre-War Buick section of the forum you will more likely find someone with the part you need. I am going to see if I can get a moderator to move your post to the Pre-War Buick forum. If not, you might also try there.
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5 hours ago, nick8086 said:
How do I find out the list of AACA members in Nebraska?
Is this on line or in print?
Go to aaca.org and log into the member log in section. You can then search the membership database (by state abbreviation) and you will find a couple of pages of members in Nebraska.
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The largest majority of people entering the hobby have always been those who are somewhere in the area of 45 to 60 years of age. That is when most people have reached the point that they have the disposable income for a hobby car, and are more likely to have garage space or the ability to afford to pay for garage space. It does not surprise me that the Gen X group of hobbyists would now be larger than Baby Boomers and Pre-Boomers portion of the hobby. None of us is going to live forever, but despite all of the gloom and doom predictions, it looks like the younger generations are still interested in the antique car hobby. The hobby will still be alive and well after most of us aren't.
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Group 6.803 Housing, Steering Gear 263417 is 1937-38-40-60 and 1939 -60 LHD up to frame number1-3429791 Flint; 2-3398993; Cal. 3-3445917 Linden.
I would have expected 40 and 60 series to use different steering gear shaft length, but from that information and the photo, I would say you have a 1937 40 or 60 series steering gear assembly with the flexible style steering wheel.
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54 minutes ago, joe_padavano said:
And again, those options were NOT available. They were mutually exclusive. The car is almost certainly a clone.
I don't know much about Oldsmobiles. I am not that interested in that era cars. I don't really care who sells it or who buys it. I realize you are not happy with the AACA rules. I realize this car being offered at auction as it is upsets you, but you don't seem to be paying attention to what the the rules are for AACA Judging. If those options were offered by Oldsmobile on any Oldsmobile of that particular year, for AACA judging purposes, those options are acceptable for judging on ANY Oldsmobile of that year. I don't make the rules. I am only advising you what they are. AACA can judge a car. AACA does not have anything to do with the auction... and that is assuming the car actually received the Grand National Award, and that is assuming the car was equipped in the same manner when it was judged years ago. As far as auctions, buyer beware is always the best thing to remember...
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This is the one that I have. They sell it as either an assembled product or a kit so you can build it yourself. I actually have one of each but since Radio Shack is not around anymore, I could not find a good project box to contain the build it yourself kit so I prefer the assembled one and keep the one I built as a backup.
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2 hours ago, joe_padavano said:
That kind of misses the point. First, it was physically impossible to combine A/C or power brakes with a W31 car. That makes this a one-of-none. It's not that the option was not originally on that particular car, it was not possible to buy one that way. As I've noted several times above, the radical nature of the cam in the W31 motor meant that it did not create enough manifold vacuum to operate those options. In addition, the A/C compressor was RPM limited, which meant that Olds wouldn't combine A/C with rear axle ratios numerically larger than 3.23:1, but the W31 only came with rear axle ratios of 3.42 and greater.
I think you missed my point. As I indicated, I don't know anything about the car in question. I am not suggeting that it was built with the options that it is listed as having. I neither know nor care about what options were or were not available on a "W31". I simply pointed out the judging rules. For AACA Judging, if an option was avaiable for any car of any brand for the year of production, they are acceptable under AACA judging. Unless you were sitting at the assembly point for the entire production run, it is impossible to know what may have been manufactured despite it not being officially offered by the manufacturer. A lot of things that were not supposed to be available actually got manufactured back in the day. The rules are not too specific because AACA can't know every combination that was built for every manufacturer for every year. Arguing about different options for specific models is best left to the marque clubs.
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I don't know anything about the car in question. A lot could have happened to it in the years since it received a Grand National Award (assuming that it did receive the award).
The General Policy as listed in the Judging guidelines is:
"The objective of AACA judging is to evaluate an
antique vehicle, which has been restored to the
same state as the dealer could have prepared
the vehicle for delivery to the customer. This
includes any feature, option or accessory shown
in the original factory catalog, parts book, sales
literature, or company directives for the model
year of the vehicle. AACA accepts motorized
vehicles 25 years old or older, which were built
in factories and specifically designed and
manufactured for transportation use on public
roadways and highways. The end result of the
accurate and honest evaluation of a vehicle by a
judging team will be the proper determination of
the deserved award for the owner's efforts."If an option was available on that year of car from the manufacturer of the car, it does not matter (for purposes of AACA judging) if that option was not originally on that particular car.
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Mine are obviously original on a 58,000 mile survivor Model 80C. Despite the way they look, they seem to be as solid as they were on day one. Yours look a bit worse than mine and obviously have some broken pieces that would be best to replace. If I was restoring the car, I would probably bite the bullet and buy what you need from Steele Rubber. It is probably possible to replace only the broken studs/red sections and use about any type of rubber to cosmetically repair the outer brackets if they still hold everything together securely in their current condition. You would likely never have a problem with them. Buick did not use the running boards as antennas too many years after 1937. Perhaps it is because they are often said to not be that good of an antenna, or maybe it is just that Buick was phasing out traditional running boards. I typically use a small AM transmitter to transmit appropriate period music from an ipod to my original 1937 Buick Radio. The running boards seem to be fine as an antenna for me but I don't have any way to compare or contrast them to a mast style antenna.
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The next photo shows the crossover wire attachment to the rear of the right running board. The last photo shows the right front running board mounts, which do not have any wiring.
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The next photo shows the rear of the left side running board where the crossover wire attaches to the left running board.
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While we wait for those photos, I will share some.
If needed, I can probably get the car on a friend's lift and get better photos but here are some photos to show how the original radio wiring appears on my 1937 Model 80C. The first photo shows the antenna lead coming down from the driver's side of the dash and towards the left front running board mounts which are also visible in the phots. The second photo, taken from behind the left front running board mounts, shows where the antenna lead is connected to the left running board.
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I can probably help you with some photos of the original installation. From memory, the antenna lead wire attaches to the front of the left running board. The crossover wire attaches to the rear of the left running board and goes over to attach to the rear of the right running board. The running board metal acts as the antenna. The mounts are to insulate the running board metal from the chassis metal. With them assembled, it is impossible to see the "red" piece.
If you want to have a radio restored, contact Pete DiPasquale. He is a member of the 36-38 Buick Club and a radio restorer. I will send you his contact information. Now would be a great time to join the 36-38 Buick Club. He gives discounts to fellow club members. His cost to restore a 1937 Buick Radio was much less than anybody else that I am aware of and he did a great job.
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I still don't quite understand the pieces that make up the complete mount assembly. Can you post photos of the various parts that make up the mount? From the Steele site, it would appear that you only need 4 pairs of the 50-0280-21 and 8 of the 50-0305-21. Is there some other part that I am not seeing?
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Yesterday morning, I drove my 1937 Model 80C to our local Cars and Coffee, a trip of only about 6 miles. Last night, I drove a friend's daughter and her new husband from their reception to their honeymoon, a round trip of 40 miles. The second photo shows the car while waiting for the couple last night.
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At $101.19 a pair, it is just a little over $400 for what you would need since you need 4 pairs per car. Can you post a photo of what your existing ones look like? My radio works fine. I just looked at my running board mounts and the rubber has certainly seen better days. I don't want to disassemble mine to find out, but I am trying to understand exactly how they insulate the running boards. It seems to me that the running board bolts would still provide continuity between the running boards and the running board brackets which are attached to the chassis.
If the rubber on your mounts is bascally intact and you want to make them look better, I would probably try painting them with some black flex seal material.
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One other small detail about this car leads me to think that it was shipped without any body installed... and probably with the bumpers shipped uninstalled. The bumpers are both upside down. They have likely been that way all of the car's life and I suspect the custom body builder's installed them wrong when the car was new.
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OIL PUMP PART NEEDED for 248
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Did you try calling Dave Tacheny? He has parted out enough of these cars that if anybody has the part you need, it is probably him.