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Keep looking, Wayne. It's there, it's tiny and it's hard to find. I spent a couple of days looking when I wanted to get my locking handle re-chromed. Clean off the rest of the rust, get out your magnifier, and it'll show itself. Sorry, I can't help with the exact location. It's been a while.

lucasclassictires.com has them. Goodyear repro's, 475-19, 600-16, 6.50-16. I saw their ad in the newest Hemmings Classic Car. Can't tell if the sidewalls are ridged (terraced?).

Mark, If you look at your pics and the photo I sent of John Young's car, the pattern is pretty much identical. The original wood graining was, as I've been told, a decal, so every car with original graining should look the same. I think you were right at first, your car's previous owner found a nice glove box door with a clock. I'm not sure if there was a no clock version of the glove box door, or just a door with some sort of plug. I bet Harry Logan knows. Steve.

PS: This is the one and only graining pattern for '38 Specials. The big series patterns were different. You see all sorts of graining on '38's, most often Ford or Chevy graining that painters are more familiar with.

I think the pattern is called butt walnut. Pretty subtle colors. My car's graining is a bit worn, which is to be expected, as the original was just a decal, so I've attached (I hope) a photo I got from John R Young of the graining on the dash of his 38-41.

Hi, Mike. 24"wide by 6" high, 1 1/4" radius on the corners. See Derek's link below (above?). Steve.

Hi, Mike. Check out appendix XI, page 26 of the BCA judging handbook on the BCA website. It gives the dimensions and shape of the rear window for the 3 passenger soft tops. Steve.

Great painting info, Brian. We west coasters, whether for our classics, hot rods, low riders, whatever, have had good luck with Superior Chrome in San Jose CA. Any other success stories out there?

Southern 38: The grill is pot metal, and the only way to get rid of the pitting is to get the chrome stripped off to get at the pits. I had a grill re-done a couple of years ago, and if you let the chrome shop do all the work, it can get real expensive. I was told, by folks that seem to know, that the pits will tend over time to cause the new chrome plating to bubble, so you want to get as many out as you can. Whether you want all the pitting out, or keep it simple and just go after those on the parts that won't be painted, it'd be worth your time to have the shop strip the chrome, take the grill back and and do the sanding yourself, then give it back to the shop for re-plating. I never got around to painting the grill before I sold the car (I already had another '38), but I did a web search for "painting chrome", and there were lots of resources. Don't forget to check out the back issues of the former'37'-'38 Buick club magazine, Torque Tube, at http://www.1937and1938buicks.com/. Steve.

I'm with you, Pete. Anyone who can post an ad on Craigslist can also do a quick search and come up with the Manheim Gold and NADA guides. "Gee, I just don't know what the car's worth" doesn't really wash anymore. I'd give this guy a wide berth. Steve.

Hey, BJM, sounds like the beginning of a new thread! Speaking as a boomer myself, it always amazes me to see some of these guys on the televised auctions, looking like they don't have two pennies to rub together, bidding $100K on some '60's sedan they wouldn't have been caught dead driving in their youth, just because it has the rare factory 4 speed option and the monster motor. Inheritance, divorce settlement, whatever, the money could be better spent. They certainly aren't getting the smiles per dollar that Ed's 40-41 would bring to its new owner.

At $6300 Buy It Now, a nice car at a great price! I wish it was out here in California. Good luck with your auction.

I checked my Fisher Body Manual reprint (some of the best money I've ever spent), and it says: "Insert a hack saw blade in handle hole and operate the blade so that the cutting action is toward the operator. Saw through the inner flange of the ferrule and with a pair of pliers collapse the ferrule and remove it. Note: Use care in this operation not to cut into the door panel." Bob's rents a tool to install the new ferrule, or you can buy one and make lots of new friends by loaning it out. I'm in the process of replacing glass, weatherstrips, etc. on the doors of my 38-41, and the Body Manual has saved me from a number of tragedies.

There's a retaining screw just below the latch, in line with the handle. Loosen that, and the handle slides right out.

Hi, Craig. If you're just looking for the information these magazines offer (and there's a lot!), the majority of the issues over Torque Tube's 25-plus year run have been scanned and posted by former '37-'38 Club members at www.1937and1938buicks.com. There is also an index.

Congrats, Mark! Can you post some more pics after you bring her home? It seems like a nice '38 changing hands is a rare occurrence nowadays.

Hi, Jeff. Both cars have the 4.44:1 rear end. My current car has radial tires a bit larger diameter than stock (closer to 7.00x16 than 6.50x16), but even allowing for that, it still runs better at higher rpm's. I just got lucky with the second car. I think every motor has a personality based on how it's been driven and cared for in the past, and my current car is a happy camper.

DBT: It might depend on the car. I've had two '38 Specials, one that would sound like it was working too hard at 55, and my current car that cruises without complaint at 65. The Limited has an even higher gear ratio than the Special, but the 7.50x16 tires compensate, so if I recall correctly, the wheels are actually turning a little slower than the Special on 6.50x16's. I agree that a 70 year old long stroke engine wouldn't take kindly to 80 mph, and then there's the question of stopping.....

Dave Tacheny is always a good source for late '30's Buick parts. I've got his address, but not his phone: 11949 Oregon Ave N., Champlin MN 55316.

I've heard of '37 front fenders mounted on '38 cars. Maybe a previous owner needed to replace the rears and got the real deal on a pair of '37's.

The editor hasn't been responding to attempts to contact him. Some folks have sent in checks that have not been cashed. Unfortunately, those of us whose checks were cashed may be out of luck. The magazine was a valuable source of information for us '37-38'ers, and the loss of it pains me much more than the two-year subscription that I've given up on.

Some of the lettering is on the back of the glass, and some is on the metal. It's difficult to tell which is which. The radio and clock are the similar. Bob's Automobilia, and probably other suppliers, have replacement glass, and if I recall correctly, the images on his website will show you what's printed on the glass. Maybe you'll get somewhat lucky, and what you need to save is on the glass. I tried to restore the numbers painted on my clock face, and even if you have a steadier hand than me, it's hard to match the faded paint. Best to leave well enough alone in that respect.

Hi, Rick H. I'm assuming you're talking about the wood graining, as the paint on the panel the speedo and gauges are housed in seems to be pretty durable. I have the same problem with my '38, and asked for advice on this forum. Members were kind enough to offer their advice, but basically, the original wood graining is a transfer (decal), and it seems there isn't much to be done to preserve it, aside from keeping your car out of the sun. Clear finishes give it an unnatural sheen, and waxes and cleaners tend to take off more of what you're trying to preserve. There are some competent wood grainers out there (check Hemmings or your car clubs), but that involves removing the dash, which is a bit of work. Good luck.

Hi, Jeff. There's a variety of gray and beige fabrics, along with the optional leather for '38 Buicks. Probably the easiest way to see what's used is to contact Hampton Coach/LeBaron-Bonney and ask them to send you samples. They're currently making a set of front door panels for my '38 Special 4-door. As far as trim around the window garnish, it's just more of the door panel material.

Thanks, Fred. Let me know how it turns out. Steve.