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Posts posted by Dandy Dave
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On 12/2/2023 at 11:13 AM, 60FlatTop said:
I have done a lot of electrical work, mostly diagnostics. The great difference between a "real" electrician and me is that the electrician does their work with the power turned off.
I resemble that remark. 🤪😜 The Important thing is to know when to shut it off before you touch something that may ruin your day. 😉
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On 8/18/2021 at 5:32 PM, MCHinson said:
Tractor Supply typically has them in stock anytime. Apparently there are more 6 volt tractors out there that still use them than there are old cars out there that use them.
Some Tractors use 2 of these 6's in series so the system is 12 Volt. John Deere Diesel tractors were that way in the 60's and 70's. A lot of farmers don't want anything to do with these new connected to a satellite tractors and rightly so. Instead they keep rebuilding the old and reliable ones that do the same job and don't cost anywhere near as much. This is why these batteries are available at TSC.
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8 hours ago, edinmass said:
It’s fairly easy to figure out shops…….walk around in them………if there are cars piled high and dusty find another place. Also, to restore real old cars……….read that as pre war stuff……..it’s ten times more difficult today than just a decade ago. Today’s world of fast and cheap with poor results is the norm. I’m not sure if many people follow the threads of the cars I’m working on……….we NEVER EVER tear a car all apart. If you do, it’s no longer a car. Even when sorting, we do one system or one target item at a time. Yes it costs a little bit more, but in the end if the shop or customer have unanticipated issues………you’re not ten feet in the hole. As a matter of fact, we have a standard way to attack cars depending on a total restoration, partial, sorting, or just an engine job. Today I installed some reproduction parts that haven’t been made in years………had three of them on the shelf. Years ago I knew I would need two of them. Well today the second one went on the car. The spare I have? It’s worth twice what I paid for it long ago, and there are ten guys who are in line for it. Plan out years ahead if possible. Today outside suppliers are fading fast, and many are overwhelmed and do poor work. As time progresses, I tend to do more and more of my own stuff that use to get sent out. Good shops are two to four years out. Sadly, if you need to ask how much…..you probably can’t afford it. I do this all day long, and the cost of EVERYTHING is asinine. Including the labor I charge. Had a visitor today ask an interesting question……….how many people can do the job you are doing? In reality, I told him 25 years ago there were two or three thousand guys who could have knocked the job out fairly quickly……..then I said today there are probably 100 people who would say they could do it………but in my opinion there were less than 15 competent people doing the job today. What makes good work? Research, experience, craftsmanship, and taking as much time as required to do the best possible job you can. Not many people can stomach 45 hours to adjust valves, or 60 hours for a brake job. That’s what it takes to get to it done, that’s what you need to do. In England a few years ago, I was in a WO Bentley only shop……the sign in the main area said “This isn’t a race, do it right the first time.” I complemented the owner. Sadly old cars require lots of time, and that is the one thing in todays modern world almost nobody has.
Isn't that the truth Ed, You, John, and I, have one mutual customer. In the entire northeast he will only let one of the three of us work on his stuff. If that doesn't speaks volumes. I find myself doing less and less. Mostly because of health issues. Also because of the stuff most folks want is a quick, cheep, and dirty job. My services include none of the three. It sure does make crabby old men out of us dealing with the uneducated in our field thinking they can buy a POS. Have us go through it. And then flip it at a profit. 🙃
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A good machinist can make the parts that you are missing. I would go that route. Once one understands the way the fuel flows though a carburetor, and what keeps it from leaking when it is not running is 90 percent of the battle. Where in the world are you located?
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Thanks for starting this post Mark. Happy Thanks Giving to all.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/475782332/vintage-thanksgiving-turkey-car-ride
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My 1925 White. Look here for the story. One has to remember that when these old trucks were new they were bought to transport goods at a profit. Most were run hard, put away wet, and used up for every nickel the transport companies could get out of them. Same as today.
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14 minutes ago, stretch cab said:
I sell parts for a major trailer manufacturer and we get crazy questions daily. I think the one that leaves me scratching my bald head the most is: "How long is your 8' aluminum ramp?" I still have to pause before I can answer that one.
Ummmm. 96 inches or 96,000.0 thousandths of an inch. Or 243.84 Centimeters or 2.4384 Meters. 🙃
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OH Rochester, bring the Maxwell around and check the gas. Yes sir Mr. Benny. Your at least half empty in the Maxwell. And that looks like the bottom half. 😜 Sorry, I could not help myself. 🙃 Dandy Dave!
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All the advice above is why I chose to rebuild an original carburetor than to use some aftermarket thing even if I have to do some machining to put it right. There's a ton of after market crap advertised everywhere on the net. The first red flag is no adjustment screws where the original had them.
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The bracket on this 1930 Model L Case looks similar.
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Been there, Done that. Take a piece of cardboard, or something you can use to fan the fumes away before disconnecting the battery from a charger, or from a car that has been recently running. Had one blow up in front of me once. After I was washed off we examined the battery and it had a crack in the lead post connection just below the case. It arced internally. I'm glad it was summer.
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Looks like it is going to take some machining to straiten that mess out. Most likely it had been run low on oil at some point. The housing could be machined out and press fit bushings installed. The gears, if bad, are another problem. Something definitely made it get hot. In the old days sometimes an old auto would be jacked up on one wheel and a belt pulley installed to run a cord wood saw or other machine that needed belt power. When this is done it gives the spider assembly one heck of a work out. I would not be surprised if that is what happened to it. In normal running it would not have done what it did.
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On second though not IHC. As the timing was adjusted with bolts rather than a lock nut on a tapered shaft. I've had my hands on one like that before. Suffering from old timers disease here. Been there. Done that. Can't remember.
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On 11/9/2023 at 7:06 PM, 1912Staver said:
The mount and drive gear looks a lot like the one on a early 1930's McCormick - Deering tractor I used to own. But they used their own { International Harvester } magneto's , not Bosch. My guess would be some sort of late 1920's / early 1930's tractor.
Yes. That. I've owed a bunch through the years. The mag is a replacement some farmer put on it. If it fit's, use it.
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The cast Iron mount looks like 1920's-1930's International Harvester to me. F-20, 10-20. Will also fit others.
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Basically you need to do this. Look in the locking bolt hole to be sure there is not a set screw still holding it in place. I've seen some applications that way in the past. A locking bolt overtop of a set screw. The cross pin needs to be removed first. Should be one piece. Then the center piece should come out after the cross pin is out of the way . I'm sure it is cracked in the direction where the pin goes though it.
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A photo of the other side will help. Flip it over. Also a photo of where the spider pin goes through the casting.
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21 hours ago, Rusty Heaps said:
Here we go again with “unprofitable “. Does anyone buy a boat and fishing tackle, or golf clubs and golf cart, or a motor home, etc. with the belief that they will turn a profit on a hobby? I hope not. Otherwise they’re deceiving themselves. Same with the car hobby. I say if you can resurrect an older vehicle that may otherwise not be around for future generations to see, then do so. Like Skvitt I am not concerned about perfection. I just want to enjoy some old cars and perhaps save some for the next generation. They aren’t making any more of most makes.
Boat = Break Out Another Thousand. 🙃
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Hollywood version of what happens to some mob members that did the family wrong.
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Could very well be that the throttle is controlled by how much the intake valve is allowed to open. Early 1 Cylinder Cadillac's worked that way. Basically no need for a butterfly in the carburetor with that system.
Today, December 7th..
in Buick - General
Posted
BTTT. Who will carry on the tradition when I am gone?