Brian_Heil
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Posts posted by Brian_Heil
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I do love this stuff.
I can only speak to my 1923 that we estimate has over 250,000 miles on it based on the tread being completely worn off both metal pedals, that the jug in 1923 is very durable since the cage nuts on it look like they have been wacked with everything possible over the years from my brass drift to Fred Flintstone’s 10# sedge and stone chisel several dozen times.
And again on my ‘23, I think how hard I pried on those cages the first time to get them out, leveraging against the top of the jug with a crow bar.
At least in 1923 on a 6, grandma spent the extra money and got the solid bunny.-
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I agree it’s a valve cage punch.
Here’s a thought. If you see a leaking cage nut (they spit excess lube that collects around the nut with escaping combustion gasses) how do you tighten it with the socket type wrench without pulling the rocker? You don’t. You tap it with the punch.
Also, anytime you mess with one of those nuts, do a quick valve lash check after you are finished.
Hopefully your cage has not rotated but if you did the valve job correctly last time, you marked all your cages to know their position.
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Get a dwell meter?
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Owned and toured my 1923 Model 45 for 26 years. Happy to help best we can.
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I just wish I had your budget Terry.
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I have a cast iron distributor off of a 1923 six cylinder. The internals are a rusted mess from sitting outside for years with no cap but the housing looks sound.
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And my two cents on battery tenders.
I have not found that they extend battery life but they are a must with more modern cars that have stay awake electronics with parasitic losses. Easier than re-programming the radio, seat and HVAC settings.
In my older cars I have the knife switches and the batteries ‘sleep’ disconnected in the attached garage. But I put the tender on each in the Spring to bring each battery up. Handy as you can leave them on for several days and not worry about over charging.
I might also add I have had 8+ year life multiple times with 6V tractor batteries from Tractor Supply. Optima is a fine battery but I choose to spend my hard earned funds more wisely.
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Stay away from this type of shut off.
Unless perfect and tightened until your hand hurts, they can cause starting issues of high resistance. You have enough to crank but nothing left to fire the ignition and poor starts.
I didn’t believe it until a friend shared his experience and I proved it to myself.
I have upgraded to the knife switch style as shown above.
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My ‘23 is standard stock fuel pump with stock Marvel and is very sensitive to the choke and easily flooded.
Cold: Turn on fuel petcock under fuel pump, set choke to full, set throttle lever to 25%, timing lever position has little effect on starting, big effect on running down the road. Crank until first bark of ignition and immediately move choke lever off full choke and point it at right hand screw head of choke bezel (even the manual states this). Continue to crank. Mine starts well right after this choke readjustment. Remove remainder of choke as it warms over the next 20 seconds of running. Then lower idle.
Hot: No choke. No higher idle required. Any choke hot is a death sentence and a 15 minute wait to let things dry out to start.
I leave my spark advance fully advanced as it will start well in any position. Retarding it for start just allows me to forget to advance it once running and then I look down some time later and notice it not advanced and car is sluggish.
Stopping. Anything longer than a gas stop and I need to shut the carb fuel petcock off or I have a hard time re-starting. I’m certain it’s the float needle not fully seating but it otherwise runs so well I can’t can’t fault it.
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Stock fuel pump, electric update or both is the first question.
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Too nice to be sitting on my shelf
Giving it a bump to get it back to the top.
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I used to fret about not having a robe rail nor a footrest. If this is you, read on.
I’m now certain the kids horsing around or a large person climbing in would have pulled the robe rail loose several times.
I also think of all the naps taken on the unobstructed floor by kids and dogs and all the times I vacuumed up who-knows-what with nothing in the way. All the luggage and coolers that laid flat.
Here we are loaded for bear headed across Lake Michigan on our 1485 mile circle tour.
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Hey Mark, let me know when I can drop off my 1923 for a new top. Your practicing on my car will be 100 times better than what I could turn out and you can learn on mine! What a deal!🤪🤪🤪
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25+ years ago all four corners of my 1923 Model 45 were growling when I bought my car.
The rears are easy and still available. It’s a very common bearing still used widely today. Don’t buy it from an antique bearing outfit. Every good bearing house has them on the shelf at 1/3 the cost. Get the sealed version. Heck, Amazon even carries them.
On my fronts, just the balls were spalled. The inner cones and out races were hard as heck and still perfect.
I ordered new precision ball bearings from McMaster Carr and carefully pried open the cages which are worn to a razor sharpness (be careful) and replaced the balls for just a few dollars. That was 40,000+ miles and several inspection an re-packs since. Still look like new.
Hoping your inner and outer races look as good as mine when you inspect them.
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I also respect holding an 'automotive grudge'.
Shell Fire and Ice motor oil had some issue back in the late 70s. I was in college and broke but still changed my oil and filter. Some bad product got out and I got some of it. Shell admitted the issue some time later but did nothing for me. Last Shell fuel or oil product I ever purchased.
I drive by a car dealership in my home town every other day. They hosed me back in 1983 and that was their last nickel from me.
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Here's a link to the Snyder's material used.
Not a conducive shape to carve a Marvel float from, but enough material to make 2. You throw away more than you end up with when done. Standing it on end, cut in half top to bottom and then go from there.
The point being, every side of the final shape has seen your saw blade or file and none of the mold skin is left. No idea who their supplier is.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=982542&cat=41842
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I have recently had four in depth telephone conversations with Buick owners asking me about Nitrophyl floats. Turns out these calls could all be traced back to this post and the callers reading it and then calling me.
Did GM have an issue 50 years ago when Nitrophyl was launched? Sounds like it.
Is the issue relevant to the Nitrophyl commercially available today? No.
Thousands, and I do mean thousands of Model T and Model A Ford owners are running Nitrophyl and have been with no issues. I asked a Ford forum expert to confirm. He did. We, early Buick Brothers, are a drop in the bucket compared to the number of Ford owners out there.
After fighting a losing battle with the who-knows-how-old cork float in my Marvel, I upgraded to Nitrophyl and it still looks and operates like new. I’m going on 3 years. Nothing compared to the 99 years the Marvel has been operating but, a data point.
Can you make your float out of other materials besides Nitrophyl if you so choose? Be my guest. And, be careful, depending on the density of the material chosen, and if required, coating, and number of coats, you can have too heavy a float.
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I have a 1911 Model 33 with the 165 cu in engine and it has 3 gears.
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Agree. But you understand the geometry lesson now.
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Three gears inside the engine front cover
From standing in front of car
Engine rotates clockwise
so
Cam gear then runs counter clockwise
and then
Waterpump shaft and mag drive gear run clockwise
So looking at the input shaft of the mag it rotates clockwise. But looking from the back where the points are it would be counter clockwise
Correction. The Model 10 has 4 gears. See comments below.
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The wood looks shot but the steel felloe has value and can be re-spoked if not otherwise damaged.
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This pic should help.
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8 hours ago, Oldtech said:
Looks like a front wheel. 40 series rears would only have 6 holes ... i think.
12 holes is correct
6 bolts hold the hub on
A hidden six facing inward under the hub flange hold the drum to the wheel
Large center hole for the very large double row bearing would suggest rear wheel
Lack of any maroon paint (‘23) would suggest 1924 where black with gold trim was standard I believe.
At least that’s my guess
What did you do to your pre war Buick today?
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
May I ask what they charged and are you happy with the result? Thx!