Brian_Heil
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Posts posted by Brian_Heil
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Lack of a thermostat would imply cooling issues in the past potentially.
Don't laugh but I've fixed two cars where the electric fan was wired backwards and was pushing air. Car idled great and did parades fine but down the road the ram air matched the pushed fan air and the net air flow was near zero.
Do a radiator dump test. Remove both hoses, stuff a rag in the lower radiator outlet, fill the radiator with water, pull the rag and see how fast the radiator drains.
Also an inexpensive thermal gun aimed at the radiator when running hot will pick up cold plugged areas of the core.
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What, no critters?
Agree and look forward to your well performed and documented work.
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I have a spare 1923 jug with the cages out of it. I will inspect for the same. Stay tuned.
at a minimum the wire loop keeps you from fishing the valves out of the cage bore once the cage is removed.
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A footnote to the valve job - tune up post above.
6 years and at least 10,000 miles later I did a cold compression test this past Fall and all six cylinders were 60 or 61 psi with stock pistons and rings.
The spark plug of choice is now the Champion W89D
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Here's a long thread on the valve job I did several years ago that newer members may have missed.
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I have had a similar experience as you Don.
A now long gone Flint Buick mechanic told me he would anneal a sealing ring he could not get to seal and the annealing always fixed a leak.
Just trying to help those who think they have to go out and make new rings.
I have cleaned up dozens on my wire wheel and they have all sealed well.
Same mechanic showed me that placing a large socket over the stuck valve cage where the spring normally sits and giving it a crisp rap with a hammer breaks the carbon holding the stuck cage. A twist of wire from a parts tag through the valve keeper slot keeps the valve from dropping out. Works like a charm. He said he pulled thousands of cages back in the day.
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You can anneal them with a propane torch.
Get them red, air cool, done.
Now they are back to being 'soft' and will seat and seal.
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Worked with Norb for years in the Buick Engineering Experimental Lab.
Wonderful man.
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Many if not most of the early Jeep catalog suppliers have a nice oil filter set up available. Here’s one as an example
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I beam front axle with a dip. Not round and not straight.
Crank thru the crossmember not radiator
Round radiator emblem
Wheel base
These all need to be taken together as you flip thru the pics in 70 Years of Buick book
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My 1911 Model 33 has the round radiator emblem.
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Do you have the spring detail drawing or an assembly drawing?
If the detail drawing, it will call out left hand or right hand wind. Regardless if drawn correctly or incorrectly.
Is your new spring wound in the same direction as the one you took out?
Based on drive direction does the spring wind up or unwind when driven?
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Have had several cars tanks sealed by Gas Tank Renu, all over 20 years ago. Still perfect. Lifetime guarantee in the file. Very happy with the performance.
Looking at their website I see the original store is in Swartz Creek, MI about 10 miles from my home. This is now a big franchise.
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And for the new readers, very few 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder vehicle parts interchange in this time period. Not just the engine but practically everything. It's like Buick had an infinite tooling budget and made all the 4 cylinder parts ~75% the size of the 6 cylinder parts or a lighter different design. Piece cost being the driving factor.
4 cylinder cars have a typical rear leaf set up with a rear perch and shackle, the 6's have the massive rear cantilever springs. I did find the clutch discs are common but the 4 uses less of them.
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1923 6 cylinder tire carrier mounts to the outer edges of the two rear frame horns and is a beast of a riveted structure. It's where I loop my tuggem' strap when I pull someone.
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There are actually two videos
One installing the pins
The second installing the ‘bridges’.
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That’s a nasty crack.
I’ve seen simple cracks ‘stitched’.
Does anyone know what year jugs are common and will fit a 1921?
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Steam Cylinder oil is lard based
It is necessary since in a steam engine this is how the cylinders are lubricated, steam dissolves it and transfers it.
Back in the day, it’s all there was for a heavy lubricant
Why anyone would use it today other than in a steam engine is due to lack of reading and investigation.
I might also add it supports bacterial growth when used in an axle or transmission and over time stinks like rotten meat.
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On 9/24/2022 at 9:01 AM, pepcak said:
Am I wrong in assuming that 6cylinder model would have crank hole in the rad shell, whereas 4cylinder model has it in the apron panel?
I'm no 1917 expert but a Google image search would say 'yes'.
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His dimensions from the front
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If you could take some measurements I will pass them on to him.
He said his shroud was Swiss cheese.
How is this one?
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6 cylinder
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No
Helping a non internet owner who contacted me.
I could post a pic of a 1917 Buick
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Any info or leads appreciated
PM me
Thx!
Hufstader’s really really bad day
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
https://macsmotorcitygarage.com/a-historic-gm-blunder-the-1939-short-frame-buicks/