Brian_Heil
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Posts posted by Brian_Heil
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Had a delightful day yesterday touring with 3 local car buddies. The weather was too nice to stay home. Got an email the evening before of the planned outing.
111 total mile jaunt with lunch in Gregory, Michigan and of course ice cream down the road in Hell, Michigan. Gotta have ice cream in Hell. By the way, my late mother was correct, the road to Hell is paved.
To be able to have an antique car ready and waiting with only a check of the fluids and tires the night before is a wonderful thing. The other cars ran just as well.
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Try these sealing washers:
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I never did a follow-up after the Nickel Tour in SW Ohio after my ignition saga.
Great tour, great roads, great group. Buick ran well like it always has. Just shy of 600 miles for the 5 days.
Had a mystery flat. Came out to a flat tire in the morning. Put the spare on and got going. Since it was the last day I waited until I got home to break the tire down. This also lets me cuss in private as I re-mount the tire. No leak found. Tire still up weeks later. Maybe a Ford guy wanted to slow me down and let the air out on me.
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Factory float level no longer applies since he has changed the float material.
What he needs is a correct fuel level measurement spec
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If you have to use 12v to jump a 6V car this is a better way to do it. The article assumes a negative chassis ground.
Another thought on these jumper boxes. If you can find one made up of cells, could you dissect it and bypass a couple of the cells to reduce voltage but would you have enough amperage remaining to turn things over is the next question?
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Answer:
The hand crank.
Keep it under the back seat.
Never needs charging. Always ready.
Worked perfect twice in my 27 years of ownership.
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Located near Traverse City, Michigan
Jim is in the hobby with several cars, a U.S. Naval Academy Grad and retired career U.S. Navy Officer and a pleasure to deal with.
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Harbor Freight jack stand and recall.
That about sums up their product for me.
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An additional comment.
Steam cylinder oil is still available and required for steam engines as it is lard based and dissolves in steam and is ‘carried’ to the bore/ring surfaces.
Back in the day, it was the only heavy lube readily available. There are far better petroleum based lubes with modern additives included now available in a heavy viscosity similar to that of steam cylinder oil.
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Check the plunger contact in your distributor cap and make sure the broken clip did not damage the plunger.
PM me. I may have a used rotor for you.
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2 hours ago, IFDPete said:
Bobs Automobilia - a Buick parts supplier in California has the rotor you need.
BobsAutomobilia.com
Hope you are up and running soon.
Inspect anything you get from Bob’s very carefully. I got some bad points from them recently. They admitted they knew of the problem when I informed them. Sadly they chose not to reimburse me after losing 4 afternoons to track down their known issue. I had repaired the issue and did not want to receive a replacement set that I would also have to repair.
Very disappointing
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Check for wear in your distributor shaft bearing.
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https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=980305&cat=41748
This is re-bottled modern Chevron Meropa 600wt/SAE250
Has all the modern additives including EP and anti oxidation safe with all metals.
Been using it for decades in my 1923 Buick as have thousands of Model T and A users.
Anything lighter and your transmission will not shift as well.
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McMaster Carr sells several sizes of damper control arms. Perhaps you could modify one?
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Vent in fuel tank clear?
screen in fuel tank
screen at inlet of SW pump
screen at inlet to carb
any leak in vacuum line connections or fuel lines
draw on the fuel line how difficult is it to get fuel? Should not take much. Or blow on the tank filler and see if it comes out a strong steam at the pump
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Car did great. Great roads.
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Here is what is on my 1923.
Just did 600 miles this past week in SW Ohio / Indiana border. Ready to join us? Same group you met in Gettysburg.
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Hugh’s right, you would have to reconfigure the valving and the whole S/W tank.
My point in all this is don’t be that guy who just hooks up an electric fuel pump to his early car and thinks everything will be fine.
Knocking on wood here as my stock S/W pump has served me well for decades and I’ve had enough mystery headaches this Spring. They are very reliable and rugged if set up correctly and not allowed to sit with bad gas for years like some cars do.
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In principle, yes.
The S/W tank needle sealing valve is non robust like the early carb needle and seat so that could be an issue
As Hugh has mentioned, you could update the needle and seat in an early carb to Viton so it could handle higher pressures and people have done this Same could be done to the S/W tank.
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2.31 feet of gasoline = 1 psi
Measure from the mid height of your S/W tank (all the higher the fuel gets in there) to the height (bottom) inlet of your carb bowl.
Remembering our 5th grade fractions
1/2.31 = X psi/your dist in feet
solve for X
0.433 x your dist in ft = head pressure in psi for gasoline
On my 1923 Buick that distance is 8 inches which is 0.67 feet0.433 x .67 = 0.31 psi
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I’ve posted this comment several times before and will do it again here for the newer folks.
In 27 years of nickel era car touring I’ve seen 3 engine fires. All three were related to an electric fuel pump overcoming the stock carburetor.
A S/W vacuum fuel pump supplies fuel to an updraft carburetor at about 0.3 PSI. I’ve done the head pressure calculation.
If you can get your electric pump regulated down to that you will be fine. If not, keep your insurance policy premium paid.
Carry a 5 lb extinguisher not the little one.
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67 mile test run today in 90F heat mid day.
Ready for the Nickel Tour this June in Ohio.
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Ignition Problem for the Books
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
With my luck I would have spit on the valve, seen no leak and then been changing a flat on the side of the road 10 miles later.
Easiest to put on the known good spare at the hotel with the floor jack out of the trailer.